Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

[John McKay via CnC-List]

what does one use to lubricate the shift cable and how?

John on Oxygen 


On Wednesday, June 4, 2014 7:54:00 PM, Curtis via CnC-List 
 wrote:
  


mine is a black cable it's a 10 foot by 75. 
On May 27, 2014 3:26 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Or go to your reputable auto parts store with the old cable. A Teledyne cable 
is a Teledyne cable. And probably less at the auto parts store than at a boat 
supplier - and more likely to be in stock instead of a special order.
>
>Rick Brass
>
>Sent from my iPad
>
>> On May 27, 2014, at 12:09, Rich Knowles via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>>
>> Curtis, dig the old cable out and go to your marine supplier with the old 
>> one to make sure you have the right ends and length.
>>
>> Rich
>>
>>> On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I have a C&C30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left on 
>>> the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
>>> Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> thanks Curtis
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty 
>>> recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the 
>>> dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with 
>>> open eyes, to make it possible."
>>>
>>> T. E. Lawrence
>>>
>>> .
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
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>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

C&C 24 rudder questionin my old 24 I drilled a hole at the bottom end of the 
rudder. Even if stored outside (hanging on the stern), it would drain all the 
water, before the freezing starts (unless you are a a really hardy sailor and 
haul out when it is below the freezing point).

If there is water in the rudder, you can easily hear it/feel it (of course, 
provided that the rudder is out of the water).

Marek

From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in a 
row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole through 
the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting?
Ed

On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
wrote:


  Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. My 
27 has drain plugs  I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..

--
  From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List
  Sent: ‎2014-‎06-‎04 5:00 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question


  After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should 
look into mine.
  It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a crack 
in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
  but I can’t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on 
exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list.  :-)
  Thanks,
  Ed 



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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

No gouging.  You use a Pinless Moisture Meter like this:

http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0574572P/mastercraft-mastercraft-pinless-moisture-detector-questions-answers/questions.htm

Or these: http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm

You don't use the meter for an absolute value, instead you use the meter to
compare an area you know is dry to one that is questionable.

I don't know anything about the construction of the rudder on the 24 but
I'll assume it is a fibreglass shell with a foam core and a structural web
inside welded to the rudder shaft.

Me, I'd drill a 1/8"hole straight up through the bottom edge of the rudder,
using a long bit so you can get several inches up into the foam core and
see if water comes out.  If there is water and it comes out clear you
shouldn't have too much to worry about except what damage may already have
been done through freezing.  If it comes out rusty and black I'd be
concerned about the condition of the internal structure.  Plug the hole
whit epoxy before you launch the boat.  Re drill the hole in the fall when
you haul so the water can't freeze in there.

Ken H.


On 5 June 2014 02:52, Ed Dooley via CnC-List  wrote:

> No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in
> a row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole
> through the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting?
> Ed
>
> On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>  Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check.
> My 27 has drain plugs  I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..
>  --
> From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List 
> Sent: ‎2014-‎06-‎04 5:00 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
>
> After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should
> look into mine.
> It *seems* solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a
> crack in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
> but I can’t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on
> exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list.  :-)
> Thanks,
> Ed
>
>
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List]

I like the resourceful “Brass-Hoyt” method on this repair.  It sounds like the 
template and gasket approach will be the best for my situation.  I’ll be sure 
to keep you both posted.  Thanks again for the advice.

Rick Jorgensen

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 3, 2014 10:06 AM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

 

Mike and Richard

 

Mike makes a good point that I neglected to mention. Based on my experience 
with the aluminum framed port lights, there is little likelihood of the leak 
being between the frame and the cabin side. So don't disturb the window frame 
unless you absolutely need to.

 

I've had my 1975 25mk1 for 20 years this month, and my 1976 38mk1 for 11 years 
last month. Never had a leak around the frame - C&C built the boats well and 
the butyl sealant is still doing its job.

 

The lexan/plexiglas lenses get crazed after 10-15 years in the sun. I initially 
tried to polish the lenses on the 25 in about 1999, discovered it to be a time 
consuming PITA, and ended up replacing them. Took an old lens to a glass shop 
that happens to repair storm doors and they used the old lens as a pattern for 
new ones. And since a glass shop guess a lot of polycarbonate for door repairs, 
new panes are pretty cheap.

 

As someone already pointed out, you can get kits for reselling the port lights 
from Southshore or Holland Marine. Convenient but pricy. The EPDM seals from 
Lowes last longer than the foam seals used originally, and I've found I can get 
materials to do all 4 of the port lights on my 28 for the price of 1 kit from 
Southshore. Buy, hey, I'm cheap.

 

Anyway, reselling the aluminum frame port lights is cheap and easy maintenance.

 

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 3, 2014, at 8:35, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Rick

 

One thing to add to what you have been told.

 

Check to see that the leaks are from between the aluminum frame and the window 
pane rather than from between the aluminum frame and the boat.  I suspect this 
is in fact the case and if so DO NOT remove the aluminum frame as there is no 
need.

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard 
Jorgensen via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2014 9:06 AM
To: 'Rick Brass'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

 

Hi Rick,

This is an absolute wealth of information that will save me 
time, frustration and should lead to a successful repair.  She is a 1973 boat 
with the aluminum frame so your repair advice and detail is already invaluable. 
 Additional information would be appreciated, but with what you have already 
provided makes a new C&C 30 sailor very happy.  I hope someday that I can repay 
the favor to you or other C&C owners, but will certainly let you know of the 
outcome after the repair is made.

Thanks,

Rick Jorgensen

Gloucester, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 11:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

 

Richard;

 

This is a subject that gets covered often on the list. You will find a wealth 
of instructions on the DIY section of the Photo Album, or in the list archives.

 

But first, you will need to identify which version of portlights (the name for 
non-opening cbin windos) you have. Early boats came with an aluminum frame 
mounted to the cabin side, with a polycarbonate window pane mounted with a seal 
inside the window and a spline outside and holding the window into the frame. 
This version was common until the late 70s - say 79 or so. 

 

Later boats had the portlights bonded to the outside of the cabin sides with a 
material called Plexus.

 

I have the aluminum frames on both of my boats. New lenses can be nade by any 
glass shop that repairs storm doors - the 1/4" smoked gray panes for my boats 
cost about $10 each. The inner seal can be bought at LOWES, a 20-25 foot roll 
of EPDM seal costs about $15 or so. I have part of a roll left over but it is 
in the storage shed. Someone on the list can give you a part number to 
purchase. The outer spline can be gotten from the glas shop, or bought on Ebay 
pretty cheaply. IIRC I paid about 40 cents a foot for the last I bought.

 

If you have the glued in windows, several listers have alternate suggestions 
for gluingnew panes to the cabin top. Keep in mind that the portlight becomes 
part of the structure of the boat and is subject to a lot of flexing and high 
loads, so you want to do the repair with that in mind. 

 

If you tell us which style of portlight you have, we can provide 

Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

They just have tiny contact points - no gouging.

-Original Message-
From: "Ed Dooley via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎06-‎05 1:53 AM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in a 
row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole through 
the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting?
Ed

On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
wrote:


Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. My 27 
has drain plugs  I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..


From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List
Sent: ‎2014-‎06-‎04 5:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question


After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should look 
into mine.
It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a crack in 
the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
but I can’t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on 
exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list.  :-)
Thanks,
Ed ___
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Stus-List shift and throttle levers - bushings?

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I'm rejuvenating the pedestal on my 32 and I have an Atomic Four so I'm not
sure if these are different for diesel powered boats. There is a lot of
play in both levers, they are the up/down action type. I plan to replace
the cables, replace the brake pads, replace the bearings and have the
pedestal powder coated. I figure while I'm in there I might as well do
whatever it is I need to do to make those levers less floppy. Any advice?

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List shift and throttle levers - bushings?

[Curtis via CnC-List]

Does your cable run threw the center on the binnacle or threw the stainless
steel leg post?


On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 11:18 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm rejuvenating the pedestal on my 32 and I have an Atomic Four so I'm
> not sure if these are different for diesel powered boats. There is a lot of
> play in both levers, they are the up/down action type. I plan to replace
> the cables, replace the brake pads, replace the bearings and have the
> pedestal powder coated. I figure while I'm in there I might as well do
> whatever it is I need to do to make those levers less floppy. Any advice?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> ___
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>
>
>


-- 
"All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty
recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the
dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with
open eyes, to make it possible."

T. E. Lawrence

.
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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Thanks for the advice guys. I came across a C&C 24 rudder failure problem in
the Wooden Boat forums (see below). According to the guy whose rudder
snapped, it¹s 2 mahogany planks wrapped in fiberglass mat. That makes the
drilling a hole idea seem a little unnecessary, unless I do it to see if the
mahogany is rotting, not to expect water to pour out. Maybe later C&Cs used
a foam core. Thanks for the tip on the pinless moisture meters, I have an
old lignomat pin type.
Ed

³In heavy winds last Sunday (7/22) my rudder snapped at the water line -
the broken off part disappeared as my C&C 24 was blown in circles until I
got the sails down.   A replacement was quoted at $2900.  The construction
was fiberglass mats over two sandwiched mahogany planks.  I am looking for
advice on rebuilding it.  Would marine grade plywood  be stronger?  I
thought I would cut the general shape out of mahogany or plywood sandwiched
together and then over lay it with fiberglass mats.  Any suggestions?²



From: Ken Heaton 
Reply-To: 
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 09:21:17 -0300
To: Ed Dooley , cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

No gouging.  You use a Pinless Moisture Meter like this:

http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0574572P/mastercraft-mas
tercraft-pinless-moisture-detector-questions-answers/questions.htm

Or these: http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm

You don't use the meter for an absolute value, instead you use the meter to
compare an area you know is dry to one that is questionable.

I don't know anything about the construction of the rudder on the 24 but
I'll assume it is a fibreglass shell with a foam core and a structural web
inside welded to the rudder shaft.

Me, I'd drill a 1/8"hole straight up through the bottom edge of the rudder,
using a long bit so you can get several inches up into the foam core and see
if water comes out.  If there is water and it comes out clear you shouldn't
have too much to worry about except what damage may already have been done
through freezing.  If it comes out rusty and black I'd be concerned about
the condition of the internal structure.  Plug the hole whit epoxy before
you launch the boat.  Re drill the hole in the fall when you haul so the
water can't freeze in there.

Ken H.


On 5 June 2014 02:52, Ed Dooley via CnC-List  wrote:
> No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in a
> row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole
> through the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting?
> Ed
> 
> On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> 
>> Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. My
>> 27 has drain plugs  I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..
>> 
>> From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List 
>> Sent: 2014-06-04 5:00 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
>> 
>> After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should
>> look into mine.
>> It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a crack
>> in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
>> but I can¹t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on
>> exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list.  :-)
>> Thanks,
>> Ed 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page
>> at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 

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Stus-List Totally not related to sailing

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

You must watch the video.  And yes, Australian Cattle Dogs are my favorite.



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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called the
local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to
light mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 1:31 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> West marine sells ritchie compass oil.
> On Jun 4, 2014 11:40 PM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks all. I used a pipe wrench and a piece of wood as a cushion and
>> 'drove her home' (after taking any tension out of the rig). Worked out
>> a-ok. Then I turned my attention to the binnacle and compass. Anyone know
>> where a guy can get light mineral oil? I tried the pharmacy but all they
>> had was heavy mineral oil. I have an aquamarine galaxy compass that
>> developed an air bubble tonight .. oops.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 9:06 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>>  Don't  forget a lucky coin!
>>>  --
>>> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>> Sent: 2014-06-04 8:56 PM
>>>
>>> To: Stevan Plavsa ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast
>>>
>>> Steve,
>>>
>>> Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds
>>> as you loosen the rig.   Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie.
>>>
>>> I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack
>>> under a winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> > On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Hi All,
>>> >
>>> > I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence
>>> it was a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the
>>> club to step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time
>>> to do my boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that day.
>>> >
>>> > So I failed to remember that there are wedges fore and aft at the mast
>>> base that keep the mast centered in the step. My girlfriend says to me the
>>> other day while pointing at a pair of wedges in the boat .. did you forget
>>> to put the wedges in the partner? Um, no I did not. Then I realized my
>>> mistake and took a look at the mast base ... the mast is seated all the way
>>> aft. I guess this would cause some forward rake? I'm all ears in regards to
>>> how this might affect the rig, sail shape, etc?
>>> >
>>> > In any case, I'de like to center the thing and put the wedges where
>>> they are supposed to go. I know I can loosen the tension on the rig and
>>> I've used halyards in place of the forestay and shrouds on previous
>>> occasions to fix this or that but even with the rig tension way down is the
>>> weight of the mast itself going to prevent me from sliding it forward about
>>> 1.5 inches? What would be the correct order to loosen the rig? Backstay,
>>> lowers, uppers? I'de rather not futz with the forestay if I can help it but
>>> I did just disconnect it about a week ago to fix a kink in the furler so
>>> I'm not shy to do it again.
>>> >
>>> > Any help/recommendations are much appreciated.
>>> >
>>> > Thanks,
>>> > Steve
>>> > Suhana, C&C 32
>>> > Toronto
>>> > ___
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>>> >
>>>
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>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Re: C&C 24 rudder questionthere was water in mine, when I bought it. I drained 
it through a little hole at the bottom. Btw. I never glassed the hole; instead 
I used some gunk (silicon, butyl etc.; whatever was around) to plug it. You can 
probably do it with some chewing gum.

The good news is that you can easily lift the rudder of its hinges and do the 
inspection when the boat is in the water.

Marek

From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 12:09 PM
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

Thanks for the advice guys. I came across a C&C 24 rudder failure problem in 
the Wooden Boat forums (see below). According to the guy whose rudder snapped, 
it’s 2 mahogany planks wrapped in fiberglass mat. That makes the drilling a 
hole idea seem a little unnecessary, unless I do it to see if the mahogany is 
rotting, not to expect water to pour out. Maybe later C&Cs used a foam core. 
Thanks for the tip on the pinless moisture meters, I have an old lignomat pin 
type.
Ed

“In heavy winds last Sunday (7/22) my rudder snapped at the water line -  the 
broken off part disappeared as my C&C 24 was blown in circles until I got the 
sails down.   A replacement was quoted at $2900.  The construction was 
fiberglass mats over two sandwiched mahogany planks.  I am looking for advice 
on rebuilding it.  Would marine grade plywood  be stronger?  I thought I would 
cut the general shape out of mahogany or plywood sandwiched together and then 
over lay it with fiberglass mats.  Any suggestions?”




From: Ken Heaton 
Reply-To: 
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 09:21:17 -0300
To: Ed Dooley , cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

No gouging.  You use a Pinless Moisture Meter like this:

http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0574572P/mastercraft-mastercraft-pinless-moisture-detector-questions-answers/questions.htm

Or these: http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm

You don't use the meter for an absolute value, instead you use the meter to 
compare an area you know is dry to one that is questionable.

I don't know anything about the construction of the rudder on the 24 but I'll 
assume it is a fibreglass shell with a foam core and a structural web inside 
welded to the rudder shaft.

Me, I'd drill a 1/8"hole straight up through the bottom edge of the rudder, 
using a long bit so you can get several inches up into the foam core and see if 
water comes out.  If there is water and it comes out clear you shouldn't have 
too much to worry about except what damage may already have been done through 
freezing.  If it comes out rusty and black I'd be concerned about the condition 
of the internal structure.  Plug the hole whit epoxy before you launch the 
boat.  Re drill the hole in the fall when you haul so the water can't freeze in 
there.

Ken H.


On 5 June 2014 02:52, Ed Dooley via CnC-List  wrote:

  No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in a 
row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole through 
the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting?
  Ed

  On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
wrote:


Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. My 
27 has drain plugs  I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..


From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: 2014-06-04 5:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should 
look into mine.
It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a 
crack in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
but I can’t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on 
exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list.  :-)
Thanks,
Ed 


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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Whale oil will also work. :-)

Bill Bina
On 6/5/2014 1:41 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called 
the local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to 
stick to light mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?


Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

they would ship it (for $27, mind you) to Canada. Maybe a trip to Buffalo is in 
order.

Marek


From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:41 PM
To: C&C List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called the 
local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to light 
mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 1:31 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

  West marine sells ritchie compass oil.

  On Jun 4, 2014 11:40 PM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Thanks all. I used a pipe wrench and a piece of wood as a cushion and 
'drove her home' (after taking any tension out of the rig). Worked out a-ok. 
Then I turned my attention to the binnacle and compass. Anyone know where a guy 
can get light mineral oil? I tried the pharmacy but all they had was heavy 
mineral oil. I have an aquamarine galaxy compass that developed an air bubble 
tonight .. oops.  

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto




On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 9:06 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Don't  forget a lucky coin!

--
  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List

  Sent: 2014-06-04 8:56 PM 

  To: Stevan Plavsa; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast


  Steve,

  Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as 
you loosen the rig.   Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie. 

  I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack 
under a winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt. 

  Dennis C.

  Sent from my iPhone

  > On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
 wrote:
  > 
  > Hi All,
  > 
  > I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence 
it was a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the club 
to step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time to do my 
boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that day.
  > 
  > So I failed to remember that there are wedges fore and aft at the mast 
base that keep the mast centered in the step. My girlfriend says to me the 
other day while pointing at a pair of wedges in the boat .. did you forget to 
put the wedges in the partner? Um, no I did not. Then I realized my mistake and 
took a look at the mast base ... the mast is seated all the way aft. I guess 
this would cause some forward rake? I'm all ears in regards to how this might 
affect the rig, sail shape, etc? 
  > 
  > In any case, I'de like to center the thing and put the wedges where 
they are supposed to go. I know I can loosen the tension on the rig and I've 
used halyards in place of the forestay and shrouds on previous occasions to fix 
this or that but even with the rig tension way down is the weight of the mast 
itself going to prevent me from sliding it forward about 1.5 inches? What would 
be the correct order to loosen the rig? Backstay, lowers, uppers? I'de rather 
not futz with the forestay if I can help it but I did just disconnect it about 
a week ago to fix a kink in the furler so I'm not shy to do it again.
  > 
  > Any help/recommendations are much appreciated.
  > 
  > Thanks,
  > Steve
  > Suhana, C&C 32
  > Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[dwight via CnC-List]

Sewing machine oil should do fine.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: June 5, 2014 2:42 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

 

West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called the
local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to light
mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?

 

Thanks,

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 1:31 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

West marine sells ritchie compass oil.

On Jun 4, 2014 11:40 PM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List"
 wrote:

Thanks all. I used a pipe wrench and a piece of wood as a cushion and 'drove
her home' (after taking any tension out of the rig). Worked out a-ok. Then I
turned my attention to the binnacle and compass. Anyone know where a guy can
get light mineral oil? I tried the pharmacy but all they had was heavy
mineral oil. I have an aquamarine galaxy compass that developed an air
bubble tonight .. oops. 

 

Thanks,

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

 

On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 9:06 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List
 wrote:

Don't  forget a lucky coin!


  _  


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  

Sent: 2014-06-04 8:56 PM


To: Stevan Plavsa  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast

Steve,

Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as
you loosen the rig.   Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie. 

I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack under
a winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence it
was a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the club
to step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time to do
my boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that day.
> 
> So I failed to remember that there are wedges fore and aft at the mast
base that keep the mast centered in the step. My girlfriend says to me the
other day while pointing at a pair of wedges in the boat .. did you forget
to put the wedges in the partner? Um, no I did not. Then I realized my
mistake and took a look at the mast base ... the mast is seated all the way
aft. I guess this would cause some forward rake? I'm all ears in regards to
how this might affect the rig, sail shape, etc? 
> 
> In any case, I'de like to center the thing and put the wedges where they
are supposed to go. I know I can loosen the tension on the rig and I've used
halyards in place of the forestay and shrouds on previous occasions to fix
this or that but even with the rig tension way down is the weight of the
mast itself going to prevent me from sliding it forward about 1.5 inches?
What would be the correct order to loosen the rig? Backstay, lowers, uppers?
I'de rather not futz with the forestay if I can help it but I did just
disconnect it about a week ago to fix a kink in the furler so I'm not shy to
do it again.
> 
> Any help/recommendations are much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> ___
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> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

I¹ll try it this weekend. How far did you drill in? The boat¹s still on the
hard, about to finally get its new name, Banshee, painted on.
I bought it with the name Jack Rabbit, which also included a cartoony vinyl
decal of a bunny, very silly.
Ed




From: Marek Dziedzic 
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 13:44:23 -0400
To: Ed Dooley , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

there was water in mine, when I bought it. I drained it through a little
hole at the bottom. Btw. I never glassed the hole; instead I used some gunk
(silicon, butyl etc.; whatever was around) to plug it. You can probably do
it with some chewing gum.
 
The good news is that you can easily lift the rudder of its hinges and do
the inspection when the boat is in the water.
 
Marek
 
From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 12:09 PM
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I came across a C&C 24 rudder failure problem in
the Wooden Boat forums (see below). According to the guy whose rudder
snapped, it¹s 2 mahogany planks wrapped in fiberglass mat. That makes the
drilling a hole idea seem a little unnecessary, unless I do it to see if the
mahogany is rotting, not to expect water to pour out. Maybe later C&Cs used
a foam core. Thanks for the tip on the pinless moisture meters, I have an
old lignomat pin type.
Ed

³In heavy winds last Sunday (7/22) my rudder snapped at the water line -
the broken off part disappeared as my C&C 24 was blown in circles until I
got the sails down.   A replacement was quoted at $2900.  The construction
was fiberglass mats over two sandwiched mahogany planks.  I am looking for
advice on rebuilding it.  Would marine grade plywood  be stronger?  I
thought I would cut the general shape out of mahogany or plywood sandwiched
together and then over lay it with fiberglass mats.  Any suggestions?²



From: Ken Heaton 
Reply-To: 
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 09:21:17 -0300
To: Ed Dooley , cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

No gouging.  You use a Pinless Moisture Meter like this:

http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0574572P/mastercraft-mas
tercraft-pinless-moisture-detector-questions-answers/questions.htm

Or these: http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm

You don't use the meter for an absolute value, instead you use the meter to
compare an area you know is dry to one that is questionable.

I don't know anything about the construction of the rudder on the 24 but
I'll assume it is a fibreglass shell with a foam core and a structural web
inside welded to the rudder shaft.

Me, I'd drill a 1/8"hole straight up through the bottom edge of the rudder,
using a long bit so you can get several inches up into the foam core and see
if water comes out.  If there is water and it comes out clear you shouldn't
have too much to worry about except what damage may already have been done
through freezing.  If it comes out rusty and black I'd be concerned about
the condition of the internal structure.  Plug the hole whit epoxy before
you launch the boat.  Re drill the hole in the fall when you haul so the
water can't freeze in there.

Ken H.


On 5 June 2014 02:52, Ed Dooley via CnC-List  wrote:
> No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont  winter, 5 winters in a
> row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter  implies gouging a hole
> through the fiberglass. Is that what you're  suggesting?
> Ed
> 
> On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21  PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> 
>  
>> Do you dry it out over the winter?  If no, try a moisture meter to check. My
>> 27 has drain plugs  I  installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..
>>  
>> 
>>  From: Ed  Dooley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Sent: 2014-06-04 5:00 PM
>> To:  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder  question
>> 
>> After reading a few posts  of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should
>> look into mine.
>> It  seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a
>> crack in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
>> but I can¹t tell how  far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on
>> exploratory surgery? I  know there are some doctors on this list.   :-)
>> Thanks,
>> Ed  
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

Do you need a Beef Hook ?

Tim >
 Toronto
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina - 
gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

Whale oil will also work. :-)

Bill Bina
On 6/5/2014 1:41 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called the 
local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to light 
mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto







This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[dwight via CnC-List]

If it is to fill the compass I believe you could use mineral spirits or
Varsol: I suggested sewing machine oil because I thought you wanted a light
lubricating oil

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: June 5, 2014 2:42 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

 

West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called the
local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to light
mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?

 

Thanks,

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 1:31 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

West marine sells ritchie compass oil.

On Jun 4, 2014 11:40 PM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List"
 wrote:

Thanks all. I used a pipe wrench and a piece of wood as a cushion and 'drove
her home' (after taking any tension out of the rig). Worked out a-ok. Then I
turned my attention to the binnacle and compass. Anyone know where a guy can
get light mineral oil? I tried the pharmacy but all they had was heavy
mineral oil. I have an aquamarine galaxy compass that developed an air
bubble tonight .. oops. 

 

Thanks,

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

 

On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 9:06 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List
 wrote:

Don't  forget a lucky coin!


  _  


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  

Sent: 2014-06-04 8:56 PM


To: Stevan Plavsa  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast

Steve,

Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as
you loosen the rig.   Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie. 

I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack under
a winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence it
was a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the club
to step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time to do
my boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that day.
> 
> So I failed to remember that there are wedges fore and aft at the mast
base that keep the mast centered in the step. My girlfriend says to me the
other day while pointing at a pair of wedges in the boat .. did you forget
to put the wedges in the partner? Um, no I did not. Then I realized my
mistake and took a look at the mast base ... the mast is seated all the way
aft. I guess this would cause some forward rake? I'm all ears in regards to
how this might affect the rig, sail shape, etc? 
> 
> In any case, I'de like to center the thing and put the wedges where they
are supposed to go. I know I can loosen the tension on the rig and I've used
halyards in place of the forestay and shrouds on previous occasions to fix
this or that but even with the rig tension way down is the weight of the
mast itself going to prevent me from sliding it forward about 1.5 inches?
What would be the correct order to loosen the rig? Backstay, lowers, uppers?
I'de rather not futz with the forestay if I can help it but I did just
disconnect it about a week ago to fix a kink in the furler so I'm not shy to
do it again.
> 
> Any help/recommendations are much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

I don't know if its "light mineral oil "  but I use mineral oil (bought from 
shoppers drug mart or no frills) To clean and season my wooden cutting blocks .
Sewing machine oil , I have purchased large quantities of that from the Local 
singer outlet.

Tim Sippel
>
 Toronto
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:57 PM
To: 'Stevan Plavsa'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

Sewing machine oil should do fine...


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: June 5, 2014 2:42 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called the 
local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to light 
mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 1:31 AM, Josh Muckley 
mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:

West marine sells ritchie compass oil.
On Jun 4, 2014 11:40 PM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Thanks all. I used a pipe wrench and a piece of wood as a cushion and 'drove 
her home' (after taking any tension out of the rig). Worked out a-ok. Then I 
turned my attention to the binnacle and compass. Anyone know where a guy can 
get light mineral oil? I tried the pharmacy but all they had was heavy mineral 
oil. I have an aquamarine galaxy compass that developed an air bubble tonight 
.. oops.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 9:06 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Don't  forget a lucky coin!

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: 2014-06-04 8:56 PM

To: Stevan Plavsa; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast
Steve,

Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as you 
loosen the rig.   Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie.

I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack under a 
winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence it was 
> a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the club to 
> step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time to do my 
> boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that day.
>
> So I failed to remember that there are wedges fore and aft at the mast base 
> that keep the mast centered in the step. My girlfriend says to me the other 
> day while pointing at a pair of wedges in the boat .. did you forget to put 
> the wedges in the partner? Um, no I did not. Then I realized my mistake and 
> took a look at the mast base ... the mast is seated all the way aft. I guess 
> this would cause some forward rake? I'm all ears in regards to how this might 
> affect the rig, sail shape, etc?
>
> In any case, I'de like to center the thing and put the wedges where they are 
> supposed to go. I know I can loosen the tension on the rig and I've used 
> halyards in place of the forestay and shrouds on previous occasions to fix 
> this or that but even with the rig tension way down is the weight of the mast 
> itself going to prevent me from sliding it forward about 1.5 inches? What 
> would be the correct order to loosen the rig? Backstay, lowers, uppers? I'de 
> rather not futz with the forestay if I can help it but I did just disconnect 
> it about a week ago to fix a kink in the furler so I'm not shy to do it again.
>
> Any help/recommendations are much appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

Pharmacies.
-Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:42 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called the 
local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to light 
mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 1:31 AM, Josh Muckley 
mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:

West marine sells ritchie compass oil.
On Jun 4, 2014 11:40 PM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Thanks all. I used a pipe wrench and a piece of wood as a cushion and 'drove 
her home' (after taking any tension out of the rig). Worked out a-ok. Then I 
turned my attention to the binnacle and compass. Anyone know where a guy can 
get light mineral oil? I tried the pharmacy but all they had was heavy mineral 
oil. I have an aquamarine galaxy compass that developed an air bubble tonight 
.. oops.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 9:06 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Don't  forget a lucky coin!

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: 2014-06-04 8:56 PM

To: Stevan Plavsa; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast
Steve,

Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as you 
loosen the rig.   Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie.

I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack under a 
winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence it was 
> a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the club to 
> step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time to do my 
> boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that day.
>
> So I failed to remember that there are wedges fore and aft at the mast base 
> that keep the mast centered in the step. My girlfriend says to me the other 
> day while pointing at a pair of wedges in the boat .. did you forget to put 
> the wedges in the partner? Um, no I did not. Then I realized my mistake and 
> took a look at the mast base ... the mast is seated all the way aft. I guess 
> this would cause some forward rake? I'm all ears in regards to how this might 
> affect the rig, sail shape, etc?
>
> In any case, I'de like to center the thing and put the wedges where they are 
> supposed to go. I know I can loosen the tension on the rig and I've used 
> halyards in place of the forestay and shrouds on previous occasions to fix 
> this or that but even with the rig tension way down is the weight of the mast 
> itself going to prevent me from sliding it forward about 1.5 inches? What 
> would be the correct order to loosen the rig? Backstay, lowers, uppers? I'de 
> rather not futz with the forestay if I can help it but I did just disconnect 
> it about a week ago to fix a kink in the furler so I'm not shy to do it again.
>
> Any help/recommendations are much appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I tried the pharmacy and they only had
heavy mineral oil. I ended up ordering from McMaster Carr. That and brake
lining material and black locktite (thanks Paul of Johanna Rose) to reline
my wheel brake.
No idea what they're going to charge me for shipping though. I never
ordered anything there so it's a roll of the dice. If they use UPS I'm
boned.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto




On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Fair, Mike  wrote:

>  Pharmacies.
>
> -Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan
> Plavsa via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:42 PM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil
>
>
>
> West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called the
> local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to
> light mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 1:31 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> West marine sells ritchie compass oil.
>
> On Jun 4, 2014 11:40 PM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Thanks all. I used a pipe wrench and a piece of wood as a cushion and
> 'drove her home' (after taking any tension out of the rig). Worked out
> a-ok. Then I turned my attention to the binnacle and compass. Anyone know
> where a guy can get light mineral oil? I tried the pharmacy but all they
> had was heavy mineral oil. I have an aquamarine galaxy compass that
> developed an air bubble tonight .. oops.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 9:06 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>   Don't  forget a lucky coin!
>--
>
> *From: *Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent: *2014-06-04 8:56 PM
>
>
> *To: *Stevan Plavsa ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast
>
> Steve,
>
> Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as
> you loosen the rig.   Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie.
>
> I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack
> under a winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence
> it was a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the
> club to step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time
> to do my boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that day.
> >
> > So I failed to remember that there are wedges fore and aft at the mast
> base that keep the mast centered in the step. My girlfriend says to me the
> other day while pointing at a pair of wedges in the boat .. did you forget
> to put the wedges in the partner? Um, no I did not. Then I realized my
> mistake and took a look at the mast base ... the mast is seated all the way
> aft. I guess this would cause some forward rake? I'm all ears in regards to
> how this might affect the rig, sail shape, etc?
> >
> > In any case, I'de like to center the thing and put the wedges where they
> are supposed to go. I know I can loosen the tension on the rig and I've
> used halyards in place of the forestay and shrouds on previous occasions to
> fix this or that but even with the rig tension way down is the weight of
> the mast itself going to prevent me from sliding it forward about 1.5
> inches? What would be the correct order to loosen the rig? Backstay,
> lowers, uppers? I'de rather not futz with the forestay if I can help it but
> I did just disconnect it about a week ago to fix a kink in the furler so
> I'm not shy to do it again.
> >
> > Any help/recommendations are much appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve
> > Suhana, C&C 32
> > Toronto
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
>
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>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I used baby oil in my depthsounder when it was in a chamber.

Also used it to coat maple  cutting board

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 1:42 PM
To: C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

 

West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called the
local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to light
mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?

 

Thanks,

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 1:31 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

West marine sells ritchie compass oil.

On Jun 4, 2014 11:40 PM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List"
 wrote:

Thanks all. I used a pipe wrench and a piece of wood as a cushion and 'drove
her home' (after taking any tension out of the rig). Worked out a-ok. Then I
turned my attention to the binnacle and compass. Anyone know where a guy can
get light mineral oil? I tried the pharmacy but all they had was heavy
mineral oil. I have an aquamarine galaxy compass that developed an air
bubble tonight .. oops. 

 

Thanks,

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

 

On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 9:06 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List
 wrote:

Don't  forget a lucky coin!

  _  

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  

Sent: 2014-06-04 8:56 PM


To: Stevan Plavsa  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast

Steve,

Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as
you loosen the rig.   Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie. 

I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack under
a winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence it
was a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the club
to step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time to do
my boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that day.
> 
> So I failed to remember that there are wedges fore and aft at the mast
base that keep the mast centered in the step. My girlfriend says to me the
other day while pointing at a pair of wedges in the boat .. did you forget
to put the wedges in the partner? Um, no I did not. Then I realized my
mistake and took a look at the mast base ... the mast is seated all the way
aft. I guess this would cause some forward rake? I'm all ears in regards to
how this might affect the rig, sail shape, etc? 
> 
> In any case, I'de like to center the thing and put the wedges where they
are supposed to go. I know I can loosen the tension on the rig and I've used
halyards in place of the forestay and shrouds on previous occasions to fix
this or that but even with the rig tension way down is the weight of the
mast itself going to prevent me from sliding it forward about 1.5 inches?
What would be the correct order to loosen the rig? Backstay, lowers, uppers?
I'de rather not futz with the forestay if I can help it but I did just
disconnect it about a week ago to fix a kink in the furler so I'm not shy to
do it again.
> 
> Any help/recommendations are much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List Compass Oil

[Alan Bergen via CnC-List]

Someone suggested mineral spirits. That's another name for paint thinner, and 
shouldn't be used. Use mineral oil. 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsy 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 


- Original Message -

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to 
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific 
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Today's Topics: 

1. Re: Repositioning Mast - now compass oil (Tim Sippel) 
2. Re: Repositioning Mast - now compass oil (dwight) 
3. Re: Repositioning Mast - now compass oil (Tim Sippel) 
4. Re: Repositioning Mast - now compass oil (Fair, Mike) 
5. Re: Repositioning Mast - now compass oil (Stevan Plavsa) 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Ed,

 

If the 24’s rudder is made like the 25’s, it will be 2 fibreglass halves with 
plywood bonded in from the top to about 2” below the bottom gudgeon.

>From there on to the bottom it’s hollow and is meant to fill up with water.

There should be two holes that go into the hollow part, one where the front 
edge turns 90 deg fwd to form the counterbalance and one in the middle of the 
bottom.

It is very important not to let these holes plug up, they are there to drain 
the hollow cavity when you haul out the boat.

Is the “crack” at the top of your rudder along the centreline where the two 
halves join together?

If so I wouldn’t worry too much about it, it probably just the fairing filler 
chipping out.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-05-14 02:53
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

 

No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in a 
row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole through 
the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting?

Ed


On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
wrote:

Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. My 27 
has drain plugs  I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter..

  _  

From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List  
Sent: ‎2014-‎06-‎04 5:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question

After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should look 
into mine.
It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a crack in 
the fiberglass at the top of the rudder,
but I can’t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on 
exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list.  :-)
Thanks,
Ed 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4592 / Virus Database: 3955/7627 - Release Date: 06/05/14

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Stus-List Raymarine Wheel Drive on Lewmar Wheel

[Allegro via CnC-List]

Hello, This is my first request of the fellow listers having acquired a well maintained 30-2 last fall. The PO had a Raymarine AutoHelm installed onto an Edson wheel which we replaced with a folding Lewmar (larger) wheel. Spare parts supplied with boat did not include the set of 3-16 mm spoke clamp inserts that we now require to put the wheel drive onto the new wheel.Does anyone know where a set of these rubber inserts could be acquired without getting 3 spare clamp sets at $35 per? Have tried raymarine.com with no success.Thanks in advance.

Allegro30175

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C&C 30-2 - PCYC Dock C-30allegro.p...@bell.netNo trees were harmed in the transmission of this message. However, a rather large number of electrons were temporarily inconvenienced.

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Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Rick,
I did the repair just like the list suggested; I have the Al frames.
However, I tried to have just one cut in the spline that holds the lens in 
place.  In other words, a single piece.  Unfortunately, in the temp range we 
get here in STL, the expansion/contraction tends to pull the spline from the 
corners.
It hasn't leaked, but I spend time pushing it back in place.
If/when I do it again, I'll add more cuts (pieces) and cut wedges out of the 
spline at the corners to allow them to seat better.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1


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Stus-List Distance to maneuver to exit and enter slip

[Don Siddall via CnC-List]

How much turning space should a boat have to be able to safely exit and 
enter a slip, if the slip is at right angles to the channel?


Presently our club is wrestling with the issue of the length of boat 
that should be in the slip given the amount of room available to back 
out, then straighten out and go down the channel between the docks.


The Parks Canada's guideline for their docking design is that there must 
be 175% of the boat length to allow a skipper to exit and enter a slip.


We all know that C&Cs need less than most boats. Any idea what the specs 
are for C&C's?


I'd appreciate hearing if there are any guidelines that your club uses 
for all keelboats.


Cheers

Don





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Re: Stus-List Distance to maneuver to exit and enter slip

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Surely local conditions (current / prevailing wind direction) will play a major 
role in this determination?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Jun 5, 2014, at 16:54, Don Siddall via CnC-List  
wrote:

> How much turning space should a boat have to be able to safely exit and enter 
> a slip, if the slip is at right angles to the channel?
> 
> Presently our club is wrestling with the issue of the length of boat that 
> should be in the slip given the amount of room available to back out, then 
> straighten out and go down the channel between the docks.
> 
> The Parks Canada's guideline for their docking design is that there must be 
> 175% of the boat length to allow a skipper to exit and enter a slip.
> 
> We all know that C&Cs need less than most boats. Any idea what the specs are 
> for C&C's?
> 
> I'd appreciate hearing if there are any guidelines that your club uses for 
> all keelboats.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Don
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Distance to maneuver to exit and enter slip

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

>From expierience I can tell you that 100% of boat length is not enough.
On Jun 5, 2014 4:59 PM, "Don Siddall via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> How much turning space should a boat have to be able to safely exit and
> enter a slip, if the slip is at right angles to the channel?
>
> Presently our club is wrestling with the issue of the length of boat that
> should be in the slip given the amount of room available to back out, then
> straighten out and go down the channel between the docks.
>
> The Parks Canada's guideline for their docking design is that there must
> be 175% of the boat length to allow a skipper to exit and enter a slip.
>
> We all know that C&Cs need less than most boats. Any idea what the specs
> are for C&C's?
>
> I'd appreciate hearing if there are any guidelines that your club uses for
> all keelboats.
>
> Cheers
>
> Don
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
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> page at:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Distance to maneuver to exit and enter slip

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Twin screws and/or a bow thruster would make a world of difference too.
On Jun 5, 2014 4:59 PM, "Don Siddall via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> How much turning space should a boat have to be able to safely exit and
> enter a slip, if the slip is at right angles to the channel?
>
> Presently our club is wrestling with the issue of the length of boat that
> should be in the slip given the amount of room available to back out, then
> straighten out and go down the channel between the docks.
>
> The Parks Canada's guideline for their docking design is that there must
> be 175% of the boat length to allow a skipper to exit and enter a slip.
>
> We all know that C&Cs need less than most boats. Any idea what the specs
> are for C&C's?
>
> I'd appreciate hearing if there are any guidelines that your club uses for
> all keelboats.
>
> Cheers
>
> Don
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
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> page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Careful with this advice.  The fluid may depend on the compass
manufacturer.  I have been informed in the past that Danforth Compasses use
Stoddard Solvent (aka Mineral Spirits, Varasol), I'm not sure that is what
is in a Ritchie Compass.  If you have been advised to use Light Mineral Oil
in a Ritchie Compass I'd stick to that and not substitute something else.

Ken H.


On 5 June 2014 15:04, dwight via CnC-List  wrote:

>  If it is to fill the compass I believe you could use mineral spirits
> or Varsol: I suggested sewing machine oil because I thought you wanted a
> light lubricating oil
>
>
>  --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan
> Plavsa via CnC-List
>
> *Sent:* June 5, 2014 2:42 PM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil
>
>
>
> West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called
> the local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to
> light mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 1:31 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> West marine sells ritchie compass oil.
>
> On Jun 4, 2014 11:40 PM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Thanks all. I used a pipe wrench and a piece of wood as a cushion and
> 'drove her home' (after taking any tension out of the rig). Worked out
> a-ok. Then I turned my attention to the binnacle and compass. Anyone know
> where a guy can get light mineral oil? I tried the pharmacy but all they
> had was heavy mineral oil. I have an aquamarine galaxy compass that
> developed an air bubble tonight .. oops.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 9:06 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>   Don't  forget a lucky coin!
>--
>
> *From: *Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent: *2014-06-04 8:56 PM
>
>
> *To: *Stevan Plavsa ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast
>
> Steve,
>
> Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as
> you loosen the rig.   Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie.
>
> I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack
> under a winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence
> it was a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the
> club to step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time
> to do my boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that day.
> >
> > So I failed to remember that there are wedges fore and aft at the mast
> base that keep the mast centered in the step. My girlfriend says to me the
> other day while pointing at a pair of wedges in the boat .. did you forget
> to put the wedges in the partner? Um, no I did not. Then I realized my
> mistake and took a look at the mast base ... the mast is seated all the way
> aft. I guess this would cause some forward rake? I'm all ears in regards to
> how this might affect the rig, sail shape, etc?
> >
> > In any case, I'de like to center the thing and put the wedges where they
> are supposed to go. I know I can loosen the tension on the rig and I've
> used halyards in place of the forestay and shrouds on previous occasions to
> fix this or that but even with the rig tension way down is the weight of
> the mast itself going to prevent me from sliding it forward about 1.5
> inches? What would be the correct order to loosen the rig? Backstay,
> lowers, uppers? I'de rather not futz with the forestay if I can help it but
> I did just disconnect it about a week ago to fix a kink in the furler so
> I'm not shy to do it again.
> >
> > Any help/recommendations are much appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve
> > Suhana, C&C 32
> > Toronto
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> >
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Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I'm not sure the temperature extremes are radically different between St Louis 
and eastern Pennsylvania, where my 25 lived after I bought her, or Boston, 
where the 38 lived before I bought her. On both boats, a single strip of spline 
is all that is needed and has stayed in the corners with no problem.

It is in the technique for putting in the spline.

As I suggested in an earlier post, start installing the spline at the top 
center of the frame (actually Dennis said that). As you insert the spline with 
your push stick, also push back in the direction of the joint, which will 
compress the spline slightly as it goes into the groove. Compressing the spline 
as it is installed, as opposed to the stretching which is more natural when you 
just push it into place, will keep it in the corners of the window. At least 
until it gets old, hard, and cracked from exposure, and it's time to replace it 
anyway when that occurs.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 5, 2014, at 16:31, "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Rick,
> I did the repair just like the list suggested; I have the Al frames.
> However, I tried to have just one cut in the spline that holds the lens in 
> place.  In other words, a single piece.  Unfortunately, in the temp range we 
> get here in STL, the expansion/contraction tends to pull the spline from the 
> corners.
> It hasn't leaked, but I spend time pushing it back in place.
> If/when I do it again, I'll add more cuts (pieces) and cut wedges out of the 
> spline at the corners to allow them to seat better.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> 
> 
> ___
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Distance to maneuver to exit and enter slip

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

FWIW, All of our docks have fingers that are 35 long by approximately 16 wide. 
There is a 60 foot fairway between each set of docks. That is 171% of nominal 
boat length. We have put sailboats as long as 38 into the 35 foot slips (about 
160%) with little or no problems.

Trawlers and single engine power boats are less maneuverable that most 
sailboats, so have more problems using slips down the fairway.

Small runabout powerboats are worse yet, but principally because the drivers 
only seem to know two power settings - neutral or Full throttle.

Surprisingly, the worst case is a Magregor 26 with a 50 hp motor, who can't get 
into his slip no way unless he puts the daggerboard down all the way. Without 
the board down, when you turn the engine off center the boat just slips 
sideways like a flat bottomed dinghy instead of turning. We generally have the 
skipper come up the fairway and throw us a line, then we pull him into his slip 
by hand.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 5, 2014, at 16:54, Don Siddall via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> How much turning space should a boat have to be able to safely exit and enter 
> a slip, if the slip is at right angles to the channel?
> 
> Presently our club is wrestling with the issue of the length of boat that 
> should be in the slip given the amount of room available to back out, then 
> straighten out and go down the channel between the docks.
> 
> The Parks Canada's guideline for their docking design is that there must be 
> 175% of the boat length to allow a skipper to exit and enter a slip.
> 
> We all know that C&Cs need less than most boats. Any idea what the specs are 
> for C&C's?
> 
> I'd appreciate hearing if there are any guidelines that your club uses for 
> all keelboats.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Don
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
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> at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Isla Mujeras Regata al Sol

[Stephen Thorne via CnC-List]

Folks,

I wanted to come back to the group and give a summary of the first major off 
shore race with Deja Vu (34+) based out of New Orleans.

Regata al Sol is the biannual race from Pensacola sailing 545nm to one of the 
prettiest islands in Mexico, Isla Mujeras.  I have done the race 3x on other 
boats and always enjoyed this event. The race started Wednesday May 7 with 20 
boats participating.  The nite before at the skippers meeting a national 
weather forecaster was reviewing gulf conditions explaining that for most of 
the race wind would be SE which for us then was a close reach/ beat... the 
entire race.   Next morning we had an excellent start (2nd over line) and 
maintained a favored position during the first two days even against much 
longer water line boats. A series of mechanical problems all due from steering 
cables coming loose started on day three. Each time we would head off on a 
manageable course using emergency tiller while hanging off the back making 
steering cable repairs... wew.  We had the same steering failure a total of 
seven times during the race with each "event" taking 60-75 minutes to make 
repairs.  Th
 e steering would give  out typically at nite during heavy weather with more 
pressure on rudder. Fun.
We finished race only to find out we were dead f-__ing last.  So much for 
representing the C&C nation.  Found an excellent mechanic on Isla who helped me 
rebuild entire steering quadrant including steel fabrication. The cause for 
anyone who hasn't guested it by now... backing plate under binnacle which 
holds sheves was corroding and literally gave way.  The sheves did not have 
lateral holding strength.  

I hope to share this experience with everyone in that it's not enough to 
inspect your steering cables and sheves - mine looked fine prior to race.  
Advise removing binnacle to get a very clear view of backing plate and how well 
sheves are attached.  If your going off shore this is a must. No matter how 
much you prepare - AIS, radar, all safety gear, rig inspection etc etc. there 
is always more to consider prior to going off shore.

I love this boat more now than ever - strong and able to handle anything Gulf 
and Yucatan threw at it.  Now a new off shore capable steering system. Will do 
more races for sure.  Oh, and we received the last place Tortuga award ;).  But 
also the seamanship award for overcoming challenge & adversity at sea.  Can't 
take that one home it's perpetual at Southern Yacht Club.

Finally, I'm looking for a couple of crew to enjoy some Mexico sailing for a 
few days and then back across Gulf to new Orleans.  Winds and current are with 
us  for this trip I anticipate 4 days crossing.  Looking at early July time 
frame.  We fly in to Cancun and take a ferry over to Isla. 
Let me know if anyone interested.

Steve Thorne
Deja Vu
770.722.2848
Sent from my iPad

On Jun 3, 2014, at 7:40 AM, via CnC-List  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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> You can reach the person managing the list at
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> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>  1. Re:  2012 Annapolis Bermuda Race C&C 37 (Chuck S via CnC-List)
>  2. Re:  Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
> (Rick Brass via CnC-List)
>  3.  Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
> (Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List)
>  4. Re:  Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
> (Joseph Bognar via CnC-List)
>  5. Re:  LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions (Wally Bryant via CnC-List)
>  6. Re:  Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
> (Rick Brass via CnC-List)
>  7. Re:  Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
> (Bill Bina via CnC-List)
>  8. Re:  Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
> (Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List)
>  9. Re:  Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
> (Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List)
> 10. Re:  Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
> (Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 02:03:10 + (UTC)
> From: Chuck S via CnC-List 
> To: "Schumpert, Monty" ,"CNC boat owners,
>   cnc-list" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 2012 Annapolis Bermuda Race C&C 37
> Message-ID:
>   <321464694.3293384.1401760990448.javamail.r...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Good for you!! 
> 
> 
> - Original Message -
> 
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
> To: "Pete Shelquist" , "CNC boat owners, 
> cnc-list"  
> Sent: Sunday, June 1, 2014 7:37:31 PM 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 2012 Annapolis Bermuda Race C&C 37 
> 
> I know it too -- I'll be on Impr

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 101, Issue 12 X 5 Install reply

[Stephen Thorne via CnC-List]

Steve,

Installed one last year on my 34+ in aft port lazzeret.  There is a shelf in 
there against port hull that make ideal space for the gear.

Good luck.

Steve Thorne
Deja Vu

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 3, 2014, at 11:00 AM, via CnC-List  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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> You can reach the person managing the list at
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> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>  1.  Electro Scan (Daniel Sheer via CnC-List)
>  2.  Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
> (Joe at Zialater via CnC-List)
>  3.  Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
> (Steven Winks via CnC-List)
>  4. Re:  Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
> (dwight via CnC-List)
>  5. Re:  Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
> (Dennis C. via CnC-List)
>  6. Re:  Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
> (Danny Haughey via CnC-List)
>  7. Re:  Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
> (Rick Brass via CnC-List)
>  8. Re:  Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
> (Rick Brass via CnC-List)
>  9. Re:  Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
> (Joel Aronson via CnC-List)
> 10.  Winch Handles (Philip Szalich via CnC-List)
> 11. Re:  Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
> (Tim Goodyear via CnC-List)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 05:53:46 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
> To: "CnC-List@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List Electro Scan
> Message-ID:
>   <1401800026.67136.yahoomail...@web126205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> The LCD display on my 12v Electro Scan doesn't work anymore. The system 
> functions, just can't read the error or status messages. Anybody got a used 
> one that's working and for sale?
> 
> Dan Sheer
> Pegathy LF38
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 08:59:17 -0400
> From: Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1
> Message-ID: <01c201cf7f2b$a12ff630$e38fe290$@zialater.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Hi Rick,
> 
> I replaced the seals on my 1975 30 MK1 last year.  It was an absolute
> breeze.  Got the parts from South shore yachts - just measure and order.
> Take out the old gaskets and clean the aluminum frames.  If your windows are
> shot (mine were fine) just use the old windows to as a template for the new
> ones.  Reinstall windows with the sticky back seal and then the gaskets.
> Took about an hour to do all four - no leaks and they look great.  If I
> recall,  the south shore kit included detailed instructions.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Joe Boyle
> '75 30 MK1 "Zia"
> Annapolis
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 09:02:53 -0400
> From: Steven Winks via CnC-List 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
> Message-ID: <2590B2B577EE4BF79772F5CD920DF155@ideaPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Hi. I am planning to install a Raymarine X5 wheel pilot in my C&C 34+. Does 
> anyone have any advice on where best to install the computer and flux gate 
> compass?
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> Steve Winks 
> Corsair VI
> 1990 C&C 34+
> Midland, ON
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> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 10:14:48 -0300
> From: dwight via CnC-List 
> To: "'Steven Winks'" ,
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
> Message-ID: <09D7D6C793DE4FAD85528EE87E727A5E@your4dacd0ea75>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I have my fluxgate compass mounted low in the boat just after of the mast
> under the settee near center line.I have the control computer mounted in a
> pod on the Binnacle guard.same pod also has my gps chartplotter.I find these
> to be good locations on my 35 MKII.I like to have the control where I can
> see rudder angle and heading, a remote control would be useful at times but
> I do not have one and there is little to interfere with the compass in that
> location.mine is an ST 4000 MKII plus, not that much different 

Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Call Ritchie or go on line to find a repair center near you. They will have 
compass oil.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 5, 2014, at 13:49, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Whale oil will also work. :-) 
> 
> Bill Bina
>> On 6/5/2014 1:41 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>> West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called the 
>> local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to stick to light 
>> mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Mast Up (finally)

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

I am happy to report that after much rehab work, wiring, etc., we finally put 
up the stick on our new-to-us 1985 37 CB; the crane operator said his gauge 
showed that the mast and rod rigging top at over 700 pounds!  
 

Richard
1985 37 CB

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 





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Re: Stus-List Distance to maneuver to exit and enter slip

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

We have our 30mkII in a 28' slip and a 35' (max) fairway. We have a bit of
Columbia River Current and some wind from time to time. I haven't had any
issues, but we are on our boat all the time and our C&C (as most) will turn
on a dime. That said, when I make the turn my stern is within inches of the
finger/boat directly across from me and I punch a touch of reverse last
minute to keep the bow off the deck locker once we are lined up.

I don't think its a big deal, but a captain in a gazillion pound, shippy
full keeler might suggest otherwise.

KD



Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493


On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 6:46 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FWIW, All of our docks have fingers that are 35 long by approximately 16
> wide. There is a 60 foot fairway between each set of docks. That is 171% of
> nominal boat length. We have put sailboats as long as 38 into the 35 foot
> slips (about 160%) with little or no problems.
>
> Trawlers and single engine power boats are less maneuverable that most
> sailboats, so have more problems using slips down the fairway.
>
> Small runabout powerboats are worse yet, but principally because the
> drivers only seem to know two power settings - neutral or Full throttle.
>
> Surprisingly, the worst case is a Magregor 26 with a 50 hp motor, who
> can't get into his slip no way unless he puts the daggerboard down all the
> way. Without the board down, when you turn the engine off center the boat
> just slips sideways like a flat bottomed dinghy instead of turning. We
> generally have the skipper come up the fairway and throw us a line, then we
> pull him into his slip by hand.
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Jun 5, 2014, at 16:54, Don Siddall via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > How much turning space should a boat have to be able to safely exit and
> enter a slip, if the slip is at right angles to the channel?
> >
> > Presently our club is wrestling with the issue of the length of boat
> that should be in the slip given the amount of room available to back out,
> then straighten out and go down the channel between the docks.
> >
> > The Parks Canada's guideline for their docking design is that there must
> be 175% of the boat length to allow a skipper to exit and enter a slip.
> >
> > We all know that C&Cs need less than most boats. Any idea what the specs
> are for C&C's?
> >
> > I'd appreciate hearing if there are any guidelines that your club uses
> for all keelboats.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Don
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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Re: Stus-List Distance to maneuver to exit and enter slip

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Don,

At NYC we have a mix of clearance between fingers. The minimum looks 
to be 120% and max around 200%, median is perhaps predictably, around 150%.


150% is the amount in my area of moorage and I find it to be 
adequate, even a little generous, for a fin keeler.


When we did our yacht club expansion in 1996 we didn't go with a 
"standard, per se" we just tried to get as many berths as possible. 
The challenge was old to new and meant not much lined up straight, so 
corner moorage is tight and then we have a few rather large basins.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

(oh yeah, she's in a 40' slip... sweet!)


At 01:54 PM 05/06/2014, you wrote:
How much turning space should a boat have to be able to safely exit 
and enter a slip, if the slip is at right angles to the channel?


Presently our club is wrestling with the issue of the length of boat 
that should be in the slip given the amount of room available to 
back out, then straighten out and go down the channel between the docks.


The Parks Canada's guideline for their docking design is that there 
must be 175% of the boat length to allow a skipper to exit and enter a slip.


We all know that C&Cs need less than most boats. Any idea what the 
specs are for C&C's?


I'd appreciate hearing if there are any guidelines that your club 
uses for all keelboats.


Cheers

Don





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