Re: Stus-List C&C 30MK!

[martin schulman]

http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1288
 
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 21:54:05 -0500
From: cpt.b...@gmail.com
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30MK!

Any one know the Height of the mast on an 1981 C&C 30MK1 ?
-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat





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Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Josh Muckley]

Hey Folks,

I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped with
the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to be
quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they
are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber
separates.

The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO
may have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair
appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on
themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the
aft pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the
forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene)
blocks.

Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the boat
there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length and
width of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the clearly
redesigned nature of the situation I began to question if these aluminum
plates should be there or if they too were part of the PO's engineering.

I'm looking for thoughts and advice regarding the engine mount replacement
task as well as the appropriateness of the aluminum plates.  It would also
be helpful if anyone has torques specs or design details of the fiberglass
foundation.

Thanks,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List Asymmetric Sailing to weather

[Della Barba, Joe]

I was amazed at how well my spinnaker was doing with the wind forward of the 
beam. I was flying it in asym mode, but it was cut as a symmetrical. I was 
racing a C&C 40 up the winding twisting Chester and from a broad reach to a 
close reach they could not pass us with a full main and #1 genoa. One little 
tight section to go and then bear off to run down to Chestertown on a broad 
reach and we'll have this race :)
Hmm - wind coming up a bit - boat healing over - here comes a gust - RP 
there goes red white and blue nylon bits all flying off to leeward :(

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 8:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Asymmetric Sailing to weather

Great that a disaster was thwarted. I love how little it takes me in a story to 
open up my imagination. Thanks
.

On Tue, Dec 10, 2013 at 5:37 PM, TOM VINCENT 
mailto:tvince...@msn.com>> wrote:
It looks like I wrote something without a total explanation. Light air is the 
usual air that we have on Wednesday night races, I would not think of taking 
the asym to weather in true winds over 6 to 8 knots. My #1 is a 150 and it does 
the job up to 10 to 12 true, I usually have a crew of 6 to 7 and their weight 
on the rail makes a huge difference. I broached once last year during the 
prerace, we were fooling around with the spinnaker up and got hit with a wind 
gust that must have been in the high teens and we were on a beam reach. It was 
not funny at the moment; but, one of the crew was sitting on the coaming in the 
cockpit and when we broached he slid off and his butt hit the water. He thought 
he was a goner, thank god for life lines.

Tom
Frolic II C&C 36' cb
Chesapeake City, MD

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--
"Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Jim Watts]

I think most boats have a metal rail between the engine and the glass, it
keeps things aligned much better and resists wear much better. My 29 and 35
both had what looks like steel angle iron. I'm not sure about the aluminum,
though. Seems a little counterintuitive, we need some 37+ owners to chime
in.


On 11 December 2013 03:33, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> Hey Folks,
>
> I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped
> with the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look
> to be quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs,
> they are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the
> rubber  separates.
>
> The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO
> may have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair
> appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on
> themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the
> aft pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the
> forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene)
> blocks.
>
> Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the
> boat there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length
> and width of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the
> clearly redesigned nature of the situation I began to question if these
> aluminum plates should be there or if they too were part of the PO's
> engineering.
>
> I'm looking for thoughts and advice regarding the engine mount replacement
> task as well as the appropriateness of the aluminum plates.  It would also
> be helpful if anyone has torques specs or design details of the fiberglass
> foundation.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Yanmar 3HM35F
> Solomons, MD
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Andrew Burton]

My 40 has steel angle iron for the mounts.
Will you be removing your engine in order to replace the mounts?
I have the same project ahead of me this winter.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine


On Wed, Dec 11, 2013 at 1:11 PM, Jim Watts  wrote:

> I think most boats have a metal rail between the engine and the glass, it
> keeps things aligned much better and resists wear much better. My 29 and 35
> both had what looks like steel angle iron. I'm not sure about the aluminum,
> though. Seems a little counterintuitive, we need some 37+ owners to chime
> in.
>
>
> On 11 December 2013 03:33, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
>> Hey Folks,
>>
>> I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped
>> with the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look
>> to be quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs,
>> they are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the
>> rubber  separates.
>>
>> The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO
>> may have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair
>> appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on
>> themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the
>> aft pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the
>> forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene)
>> blocks.
>>
>> Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the
>> boat there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length
>> and width of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the
>> clearly redesigned nature of the situation I began to question if these
>> aluminum plates should be there or if they too were part of the PO's
>> engineering.
>>
>> I'm looking for thoughts and advice regarding the engine mount
>> replacement task as well as the appropriateness of the aluminum plates.  It
>> would also be helpful if anyone has torques specs or design details of the
>> fiberglass foundation.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Aaron Rouhi]

I have the steel L angle bar between the mounts and the glass as well. The 
steel bar is through bolted to my glass engine beds. I changed engine mounts 
abount 4 months ago and This made the replacement of engine mounts much easier 

Cheers,
Aaron R.
1979 30-MK1
Annapolis, MD

> On Dec 11, 2013, at 1:12 PM, "Jim Watts"  wrote:
> 
> I think most boats have a metal rail between the engine and the glass, it 
> keeps things aligned much better and resists wear much better. My 29 and 35 
> both had what looks like steel angle iron. I'm not sure about the aluminum, 
> though. Seems a little counterintuitive, we need some 37+ owners to chime in.
> 
> 
>> On 11 December 2013 03:33, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>> Hey Folks,
>> 
>> I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped with 
>> the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to be 
>> quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they 
>> are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber  
>> separates.
>> 
>> The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO may 
>> have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair 
>> appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on 
>> themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the 
>> aft pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the 
>> forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene) 
>> blocks.
>> 
>> Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the boat 
>> there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length and 
>> width of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the clearly 
>> redesigned nature of the situation I began to question if these aluminum 
>> plates should be there or if they too were part of the PO's engineering.
>> 
>> I'm looking for thoughts and advice regarding the engine mount replacement 
>> task as well as the appropriateness of the aluminum plates.  It would also 
>> be helpful if anyone has torques specs or design details of the fiberglass 
>> foundation.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Aaron Rouhi]

I jacked mine up using a normal automotive jack with some wooden planks in 
between for protection. 

Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD

From: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 13:15:39 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

My 40 has steel angle iron for the mounts. 
Will you be removing your engine in order to replace the mounts?
I have the same project ahead of me this winter.



Andy
C&C 40 
Peregrine


On Wed, Dec 11, 2013 at 1:11 PM, Jim Watts  wrote:


I think most boats have a metal rail between the engine and the glass, it keeps 
things aligned much better and resists wear much better. My 29 and 35 both had 
what looks like steel angle iron. I'm not sure about the aluminum, though. 
Seems a little counterintuitive, we need some 37+ owners to chime in.





On 11 December 2013 03:33, Josh Muckley  wrote:



Hey Folks,
I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped with the 
original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to be quite 
high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they are 
positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber  
separates.




The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO may 
have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair 
appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on 
themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the aft 
pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the forward 
foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene) blocks.




Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the boat 
there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length and width 
of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the clearly redesigned 
nature of the situation I began to question if these aluminum plates should be 
there or if they too were part of the PO's engineering.




I'm looking for thoughts and advice regarding the engine mount replacement task 
as well as the appropriateness of the aluminum plates.  It would also be 
helpful if anyone has torques specs or design details of the fiberglass 
foundation.




Thanks,
Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Yanmar 3HM35F

Solomons, MD

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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/


phone  +401 965 5260


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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Bill Coleman]

Mine also had that gaggy old Angle Iron, when I replaced the Tranny 12 years
ago I also replaced those angles with nice clean3/8" Aluminum  Angle. When
the Nanni went in, the mounts were 2" narrower, so I welded some 3/8"
Aluminum bar on top of the angle to narrow it up, everything is hunky-dory. 

Between that, the heavy Perkins, and probably 200# of cast iron Grunnert
Refrigeration, I have probably removed about 450# of iron from the back end
of the boat.  Sshhh. 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 1:12 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

 

I think most boats have a metal rail between the engine and the glass, it
keeps things aligned much better and resists wear much better. My 29 and 35
both had what looks like steel angle iron. I'm not sure about the aluminum,
though. Seems a little counterintuitive, we need some 37+ owners to chime
in.

 

On 11 December 2013 03:33, Josh Muckley  wrote:

Hey Folks,

I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped with
the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to be
quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they
are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber
separates.

The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO may
have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair
appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on
themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the
aft pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the
forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene)
blocks.

Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the boat
there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length and
width of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the clearly
redesigned nature of the situation I began to question if these aluminum
plates should be there or if they too were part of the PO's engineering.

I'm looking for thoughts and advice regarding the engine mount replacement
task as well as the appropriateness of the aluminum plates.  It would also
be helpful if anyone has torques specs or design details of the fiberglass
foundation.

Thanks,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD


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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Edd Schillay]

Josh,

As one of the few C&C37+ owners on the list, I wish I had some 
experience to share. The mounts on the Enterprise are original and I’ve not had 
any need or desire to make any changes — yet. 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

On Dec 11, 2013, at 2:13 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

> Mine also had that gaggy old Angle Iron, when I replaced the Tranny 12 years 
> ago I also replaced those angles with nice clean3/8” Aluminum  Angle. When 
> the Nanni went in, the mounts were 2” narrower, so I welded some 3/8” 
> Aluminum bar on top of the angle to narrow it up, everything is hunky-dory.
> Between that, the heavy Perkins, and probably 200# of cast iron Grunnert 
> Refrigeration, I have probably removed about 450# of iron from the back end 
> of the boat.  Sshhh.
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
> Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 1:12 PM
> To: 1 CnC List
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
>  
> I think most boats have a metal rail between the engine and the glass, it 
> keeps things aligned much better and resists wear much better. My 29 and 35 
> both had what looks like steel angle iron. I'm not sure about the aluminum, 
> though. Seems a little counterintuitive, we need some 37+ owners to chime in.
>  
> 
> On 11 December 2013 03:33, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> Hey Folks,
> 
> I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped with 
> the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to be 
> quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they are 
> positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber  
> separates.
> 
> The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO may 
> have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair 
> appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on 
> themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the 
> aft pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the 
> forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene) blocks.
> 
> Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the boat 
> there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length and width 
> of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the clearly 
> redesigned nature of the situation I began to question if these aluminum 
> plates should be there or if they too were part of the PO's engineering.
> 
> I'm looking for thoughts and advice regarding the engine mount replacement 
> task as well as the appropriateness of the aluminum plates.  It would also be 
> helpful if anyone has torques specs or design details of the fiberglass 
> foundation.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Yanmar 3HM35F
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Rich Knowles]

Josh:

I just had a look at mounts on the PYI site: 
http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=engine-mounts&sn=1

Their widget allows you to insert the dimensions of your existing mounts so you 
can receive new mounts that should simply replace the  existing units with no 
drilling or other fiddling. I trust you completed that exercise and have 
received the correct units. Note, they are not stainless but zinc plated.

Many of our boats came with some sort of metal members in the engine mounting 
system and I suggest leaving well enough alone unless you have good reason to 
make changes. If you do one mount at a time, you should be able to simply undo 
the bolts, back off the positioning nuts, remove and replace the old mount and, 
after all have been replaced, adjust the mounts to position the engine 
correctly.

Well before you start, I suggest soaking the mounting bolts and nuts and your 
propeller shaft flange connecting nuts and bolts with one of the proven rust 
busters previously discussed on this forum.

Also, before you undo the existing mounts or make any changes to the adjustment 
nut positions, I suggest you measure and record the distance between the 
underside of each engine mounting bracket to the top of the bed under it and 
use that measurement to set the top of the bottom nut of each of the new 
mounts. Even if an old mount has settled, it will give you a reasonable 
starting point to start aligning the engine.

Aligning the engine after installing the new mounts will be another chore. This 
involves undoing the bolts connecting the propeller shaft flange to the engine 
shaft flange and fiddling with the nuts on the mounts until the shaft is 
centred in the shaft tunnel, the flanges are concentric and the engine is 
aligned so the clearance between the flanges is equal or within .001 - .002" 
all around. This can be a tricky job and will test your patience, but needs to 
be done as best as possible. After this is done, the system should be 
reasonably vibration free. Ideally the final alignment should be done after the 
engine has settled on the new mounts for a few days and the boat is in the 
water.

To reduce alignment and vibration problems further, I highly recommend 
installing a flexible shaft coupling which will absorb most of the remaining 
shaft coupling misalignment which is inevitable, especially when the system 
transitions from a static state to an operating, loaded condition.

See: http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=shaft-coupling

Google will reveal many discussions of shaft alignment on the web. One of the 
simplest illustrations is: http://www.ebasicpower.com/faq/alignib.htm

I also suggest checking your cutless bearing while you are fiddling with the 
drive train. Note the spelling, it's not a sword:)

Good luck.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.





On Dec 11, 2013, at 7:33 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

Hey Folks,

I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped with the 
original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to be quite 
high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they are 
positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber  
separates.

The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO may 
have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair 
appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on 
themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the aft 
pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the forward 
foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene) blocks.

Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the boat 
there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length and width 
of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the clearly redesigned 
nature of the situation I began to question if these aluminum plates should be 
there or if they too were part of the PO's engineering.

I'm looking for thoughts and advice regarding the engine mount replacement task 
as well as the appropriateness of the aluminum plates.  It would also be 
helpful if anyone has torques specs or design details of the fiberglass 
foundation.

Thanks,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD

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Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Tom Buscaglia]

Josh

I don't think I have specs, but Alera came with a bunch of the 
original paperwork.  I give it a look.  Also, since she had under 500 
hrs on the engine when we got her I'm sure that the mounts are 
original.  So, let me know if you'd like me to get you some pictures 
of the mounts.  This assumes there were no changes in the production 
runs between Sea Hawk and Alera.


Tom B

At 09:00 AM 12/11/2013, you wrote:

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 06:33:55 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hey Folks,

I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped with
the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to be
quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they
are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber
separates.

The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO
may have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair
appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on
themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the
aft pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the
forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene)
blocks.

Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the boat
there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length and
width of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the clearly
redesigned nature of the situation I began to question if these aluminum
plates should be there or if they too were part of the PO's engineering.

I'm looking for thoughts and advice regarding the engine mount replacement
task as well as the appropriateness of the aluminum plates.  It would also
be helpful if anyone has torques specs or design details of the fiberglass
foundation.

Thanks,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
___
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[David]

FWIW when I did mine I left the alignment to a professional.

IMHO...money well spent.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


From: r...@sailpower.ca
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 15:45:45 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

Josh:
I just had a look at mounts on the PYI site: 
http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=engine-mounts&sn=1
Their widget allows you to insert the dimensions of your existing mounts so you 
can receive new mounts that should simply replace the  existing units with no 
drilling or other fiddling. I trust you completed that exercise and have 
received the correct units. Note, they are not stainless but zinc plated.
Many of our boats came with some sort of metal members in the engine mounting 
system and I suggest leaving well enough alone unless you have good reason to 
make changes. If you do one mount at a time, you should be able to simply undo 
the bolts, back off the positioning nuts, remove and replace the old mount and, 
after all have been replaced, adjust the mounts to position the engine 
correctly.
Well before you start, I suggest soaking the mounting bolts and nuts and your 
propeller shaft flange connecting nuts and bolts with one of the proven rust 
busters previously discussed on this forum.
Also, before you undo the existing mounts or make any changes to the adjustment 
nut positions, I suggest you measure and record the distance between the 
underside of each engine mounting bracket to the top of the bed under it and 
use that measurement to set the top of the bottom nut of each of the new 
mounts. Even if an old mount has settled, it will give you a reasonable 
starting point to start aligning the engine.
Aligning the engine after installing the new mounts will be another chore. This 
involves undoing the bolts connecting the propeller shaft flange to the engine 
shaft flange and fiddling with the nuts on the mounts until the shaft is 
centred in the shaft tunnel, the flanges are concentric and the engine is 
aligned so the clearance between the flanges is equal or within .001 - .002" 
all around. This can be a tricky job and will test your patience, but needs to 
be done as best as possible. After this is done, the system should be 
reasonably vibration free. Ideally the final alignment should be done after the 
engine has settled on the new mounts for a few days and the boat is in the 
water.
To reduce alignment and vibration problems further, I highly recommend 
installing a flexible shaft coupling which will absorb most of the remaining 
shaft coupling misalignment which is inevitable, especially when the system 
transitions from a static state to an operating, loaded condition.
See: http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=shaft-coupling
Google will reveal many discussions of shaft alignment on the web. One of the 
simplest illustrations is: http://www.ebasicpower.com/faq/alignib.htm
I also suggest checking your cutless bearing while you are fiddling with the 
drive train. Note the spelling, it's not a sword:)
Good luck.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.











On Dec 11, 2013, at 7:33 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:Hey 
Folks,I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped 
with the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to 
be quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they 
are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber  
separates.The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the 
PO may have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair 
appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on 
themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the aft 
pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the forward 
foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene) blocks.Sitting 
between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the boat there are 
1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length and width of each 
port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the clearly redesigned nature 
of the situation I began to question if these aluminum plates should be there 
or if they too were part of the PO's engineering.I'm looking for thoughts and 
advice regarding the engine mount replacement task as well as the 
appropriateness of the aluminum plates.  It would also be helpful if anyone has 
torques specs or design details of the fiberglass foundation.Thanks,Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Yanmar 3HM35F

Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30MK!

[Joseph Bognar]

I am sure I measured mine and it's marked at 42' 6" above the deck. You have 
another 6 feet or more below deck also   

Joe Bognar 
1979 C&C 30 Mk 1
In Luff Again 11
Grimsby, On 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Dec 10, 2013, at 9:54 PM, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> Any one know the Height of the mast on an 1981 C&C 30MK1 ?
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Jim Watts]

I recall some inventive lister using a basketball as a jack under the
engine, apparently it works really well, especially when you have limited
clearance to fit a regular jack.


On 11 December 2013 12:16, David  wrote:

> FWIW when I did mine I left the alignment to a professional.
>
> IMHO...money well spent.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> From: r...@sailpower.ca
> Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 15:45:45 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
>
> Josh:
>
> I just had a look at mounts on the PYI site:
> http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=engine-mounts&sn=1
>
> Their widget allows you to insert the dimensions of your existing mounts
> so you can receive new mounts that should simply replace the  existing
> units with no drilling or other fiddling. I trust you completed that
> exercise and have received the correct units. Note, they are not stainless
> but zinc plated.
>
> Many of our boats came with some sort of metal members in the engine
> mounting system and I suggest leaving well enough alone unless you have
> good reason to make changes. If you do one mount at a time, you should be
> able to simply undo the bolts, back off the positioning nuts, remove and
> replace the old mount and, after all have been replaced, adjust the mounts
> to position the engine correctly.
>
> Well before you start, I suggest soaking the mounting bolts and nuts and
> your propeller shaft flange connecting nuts and bolts with one of the
> proven rust busters previously discussed on this forum.
>
> Also, before you undo the existing mounts or make any changes to the
> adjustment nut positions, I suggest you measure and record the distance
> between the underside of each engine mounting bracket to the top of the bed
> under it and use that measurement to set the top of the bottom nut of each
> of the new mounts. Even if an old mount has settled, it will give you a
> reasonable starting point to start aligning the engine.
>
> Aligning the engine after installing the new mounts will be another chore.
> This involves undoing the bolts connecting the propeller shaft flange to
> the engine shaft flange and fiddling with the nuts on the mounts until the
> shaft is centred in the shaft tunnel, the flanges are concentric and the
> engine is aligned so the clearance between the flanges is equal or within
> .001 - .002" all around. This can be a tricky job and will test your
> patience, but needs to be done as best as possible. After this is done, the
> system should be reasonably vibration free. Ideally the final alignment
> should be done after the engine has settled on the new mounts for a few
> days and the boat is in the water.
>
> To reduce alignment and vibration problems further, I highly recommend
> installing a flexible shaft coupling which will absorb most of the
> remaining shaft coupling misalignment which is inevitable, especially when
> the system transitions from a static state to an operating, loaded
> condition.
>
> See:
> http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=shaft-coupling
>
> Google will reveal many discussions of shaft alignment on the web. One of
> the simplest illustrations is: http://www.ebasicpower.com/faq/alignib.htm
>
> I also suggest checking your cutless bearing while you are fiddling with
> the drive train. Note the spelling, it's not a sword:)
>
> Good luck.
>
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO LF38
> Halifax, NS.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Dec 11, 2013, at 7:33 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> Hey Folks,
>
> I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped
> with the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look
> to be quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs,
> they are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the
> rubber  separates.
>
> The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO
> may have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair
> appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on
> themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the
> aft pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the
> forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene)
> blocks.
>
> Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the
> boat there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length
> and width of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the
> clearly redesigned nature of the situation I began to question if these
> aluminum plates should be there or if they too were part of the PO's
> engineering.
>
> I'm looking for thoughts and advice regarding the engine mount replacement
> task as well as the appropriateness of the aluminum plates.  It would also
> be helpful if anyone has torques specs or design details of the fiberglass
> founda

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Rich Knowles]

2 points!

Rich

> On Dec 11, 2013, at 18:15, Jim Watts  wrote:
> 
> I recall some inventive lister using a basketball as a jack under the engine, 
> apparently it works really well, especially when you have limited clearance 
> to fit a regular jack.
> 
> 
>> On 11 December 2013 12:16, David  wrote:
>> FWIW when I did mine I left the alignment to a professional.
>> 
>> IMHO...money well spent.
>> 
>> David F. Risch
>> 1981 40-2
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>> 
>> 
>> From: r...@sailpower.ca
>> Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 15:45:45 -0400
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
>> 
>> Josh:
>> 
>> I just had a look at mounts on the PYI site: 
>> http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=engine-mounts&sn=1
>> 
>> Their widget allows you to insert the dimensions of your existing mounts so 
>> you can receive new mounts that should simply replace the  existing units 
>> with no drilling or other fiddling. I trust you completed that exercise and 
>> have received the correct units. Note, they are not stainless but zinc 
>> plated.
>> 
>> Many of our boats came with some sort of metal members in the engine 
>> mounting system and I suggest leaving well enough alone unless you have good 
>> reason to make changes. If you do one mount at a time, you should be able to 
>> simply undo the bolts, back off the positioning nuts, remove and replace the 
>> old mount and, after all have been replaced, adjust the mounts to position 
>> the engine correctly.
>> 
>> Well before you start, I suggest soaking the mounting bolts and nuts and 
>> your propeller shaft flange connecting nuts and bolts with one of the proven 
>> rust busters previously discussed on this forum.
>> 
>> Also, before you undo the existing mounts or make any changes to the 
>> adjustment nut positions, I suggest you measure and record the distance 
>> between the underside of each engine mounting bracket to the top of the bed 
>> under it and use that measurement to set the top of the bottom nut of each 
>> of the new mounts. Even if an old mount has settled, it will give you a 
>> reasonable starting point to start aligning the engine.
>> 
>> Aligning the engine after installing the new mounts will be another chore. 
>> This involves undoing the bolts connecting the propeller shaft flange to the 
>> engine shaft flange and fiddling with the nuts on the mounts until the shaft 
>> is centred in the shaft tunnel, the flanges are concentric and the engine is 
>> aligned so the clearance between the flanges is equal or within .001 - .002" 
>> all around. This can be a tricky job and will test your patience, but needs 
>> to be done as best as possible. After this is done, the system should be 
>> reasonably vibration free. Ideally the final alignment should be done after 
>> the engine has settled on the new mounts for a few days and the boat is in 
>> the water.
>> 
>> To reduce alignment and vibration problems further, I highly recommend 
>> installing a flexible shaft coupling which will absorb most of the remaining 
>> shaft coupling misalignment which is inevitable, especially when the system 
>> transitions from a static state to an operating, loaded condition.
>> 
>> See: http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=shaft-coupling
>> 
>> Google will reveal many discussions of shaft alignment on the web. One of 
>> the simplest illustrations is: http://www.ebasicpower.com/faq/alignib.htm
>> 
>> I also suggest checking your cutless bearing while you are fiddling with the 
>> drive train. Note the spelling, it's not a sword:)
>> 
>> Good luck.
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> INDIGO LF38
>> Halifax, NS.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Dec 11, 2013, at 7:33 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>> 
>> Hey Folks,
>> 
>> I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped with 
>> the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to be 
>> quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they 
>> are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber  
>> separates.
>> 
>> The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO may 
>> have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair 
>> appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on 
>> themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the 
>> aft pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the 
>> forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene) 
>> blocks.
>> 
>> Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the boat 
>> there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length and 
>> width of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the clearly 
>> redesigned nature of the situation I began to question if these aluminum 
>> plates should be there or if they too were part of the PO's engineering.
>> 
>> I'm looking for tho

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Don Newman]

Good post Rick, but one quibble.
If an engine has flexible mounts then it must have a solid not flexible 
coupling and vice versa.

I made that mistake when I repose red my last boat and the coupling destroyed 
itself with extreme prejudice in a couple of hours of running.  Everything was 
aligned but the two components worked against each other. 

I learned later that this is an inflexible rule ;-)  sorry I can't provide a 
reference but my painful experience bears it out. The original had a solid 
mount and flexible coupling and the new engine had flexible mounts so I used 
the very substantial coupling.  


Don Newman
C&C 44


> On Dec 11, 2013, at 14:45, Rich Knowles  wrote:
> 
> Josh:
> 
> I just had a look at mounts on the PYI site: 
> http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=engine-mounts&sn=1
> 
> Their widget allows you to insert the dimensions of your existing mounts so 
> you can receive new mounts that should simply replace the  existing units 
> with no drilling or other fiddling. I trust you completed that exercise and 
> have received the correct units. Note, they are not stainless but zinc plated.
> 
> Many of our boats came with some sort of metal members in the engine mounting 
> system and I suggest leaving well enough alone unless you have good reason to 
> make changes. If you do one mount at a time, you should be able to simply 
> undo the bolts, back off the positioning nuts, remove and replace the old 
> mount and, after all have been replaced, adjust the mounts to position the 
> engine correctly.
> 
> Well before you start, I suggest soaking the mounting bolts and nuts and your 
> propeller shaft flange connecting nuts and bolts with one of the proven rust 
> busters previously discussed on this forum.
> 
> Also, before you undo the existing mounts or make any changes to the 
> adjustment nut positions, I suggest you measure and record the distance 
> between the underside of each engine mounting bracket to the top of the bed 
> under it and use that measurement to set the top of the bottom nut of each of 
> the new mounts. Even if an old mount has settled, it will give you a 
> reasonable starting point to start aligning the engine.
> 
> Aligning the engine after installing the new mounts will be another chore. 
> This involves undoing the bolts connecting the propeller shaft flange to the 
> engine shaft flange and fiddling with the nuts on the mounts until the shaft 
> is centred in the shaft tunnel, the flanges are concentric and the engine is 
> aligned so the clearance between the flanges is equal or within .001 - .002" 
> all around. This can be a tricky job and will test your patience, but needs 
> to be done as best as possible. After this is done, the system should be 
> reasonably vibration free. Ideally the final alignment should be done after 
> the engine has settled on the new mounts for a few days and the boat is in 
> the water.
> 
> To reduce alignment and vibration problems further, I highly recommend 
> installing a flexible shaft coupling which will absorb most of the remaining 
> shaft coupling misalignment which is inevitable, especially when the system 
> transitions from a static state to an operating, loaded condition.
> 
> See: http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=shaft-coupling
> 
> Google will reveal many discussions of shaft alignment on the web. One of the 
> simplest illustrations is: http://www.ebasicpower.com/faq/alignib.htm
> 
> I also suggest checking your cutless bearing while you are fiddling with the 
> drive train. Note the spelling, it's not a sword:)
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO LF38
> Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Dec 11, 2013, at 7:33 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> Hey Folks,
> 
> I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped with 
> the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to be 
> quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they are 
> positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber  
> separates.
> 
> The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO may 
> have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair 
> appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on 
> themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the 
> aft pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the 
> forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene) blocks.
> 
> Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the boat 
> there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length and width 
> of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the clearly 
> redesigned nature of the situation I began to question if these aluminum 
> plates should be there or if they too were part of the PO's engineering.
> 
> I'm looking for thoughts and advice regar

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Rich Knowles]

Hmmm. Interesting but I have to tell you I have had regular flexible mounts and 
a Drive Saver flexible coupling on my boat for 15 years with no problems.  
Others may wish to comment. 

Rich

> On Dec 11, 2013, at 18:47, Don Newman  wrote:
> 
> Good post Rick, but one quibble.
> If an engine has flexible mounts then it must have a solid not flexible 
> coupling and vice versa.
> 
> I made that mistake when I repose red my last boat and the coupling destroyed 
> itself with extreme prejudice in a couple of hours of running.  Everything 
> was aligned but the two components worked against each other. 
> 
> I learned later that this is an inflexible rule ;-)  sorry I can't provide a 
> reference but my painful experience bears it out. The original had a solid 
> mount and flexible coupling and the new engine had flexible mounts so I used 
> the very substantial coupling.  
> 
> 
> Don Newman
> C&C 44
> 
> 
>> On Dec 11, 2013, at 14:45, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>> 
>> Josh:
>> 
>> I just had a look at mounts on the PYI site: 
>> http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=engine-mounts&sn=1
>> 
>> Their widget allows you to insert the dimensions of your existing mounts so 
>> you can receive new mounts that should simply replace the  existing units 
>> with no drilling or other fiddling. I trust you completed that exercise and 
>> have received the correct units. Note, they are not stainless but zinc 
>> plated.
>> 
>> Many of our boats came with some sort of metal members in the engine 
>> mounting system and I suggest leaving well enough alone unless you have good 
>> reason to make changes. If you do one mount at a time, you should be able to 
>> simply undo the bolts, back off the positioning nuts, remove and replace the 
>> old mount and, after all have been replaced, adjust the mounts to position 
>> the engine correctly.
>> 
>> Well before you start, I suggest soaking the mounting bolts and nuts and 
>> your propeller shaft flange connecting nuts and bolts with one of the proven 
>> rust busters previously discussed on this forum.
>> 
>> Also, before you undo the existing mounts or make any changes to the 
>> adjustment nut positions, I suggest you measure and record the distance 
>> between the underside of each engine mounting bracket to the top of the bed 
>> under it and use that measurement to set the top of the bottom nut of each 
>> of the new mounts. Even if an old mount has settled, it will give you a 
>> reasonable starting point to start aligning the engine.
>> 
>> Aligning the engine after installing the new mounts will be another chore. 
>> This involves undoing the bolts connecting the propeller shaft flange to the 
>> engine shaft flange and fiddling with the nuts on the mounts until the shaft 
>> is centred in the shaft tunnel, the flanges are concentric and the engine is 
>> aligned so the clearance between the flanges is equal or within .001 - .002" 
>> all around. This can be a tricky job and will test your patience, but needs 
>> to be done as best as possible. After this is done, the system should be 
>> reasonably vibration free. Ideally the final alignment should be done after 
>> the engine has settled on the new mounts for a few days and the boat is in 
>> the water.
>> 
>> To reduce alignment and vibration problems further, I highly recommend 
>> installing a flexible shaft coupling which will absorb most of the remaining 
>> shaft coupling misalignment which is inevitable, especially when the system 
>> transitions from a static state to an operating, loaded condition.
>> 
>> See: http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=shaft-coupling
>> 
>> Google will reveal many discussions of shaft alignment on the web. One of 
>> the simplest illustrations is: http://www.ebasicpower.com/faq/alignib.htm
>> 
>> I also suggest checking your cutless bearing while you are fiddling with the 
>> drive train. Note the spelling, it's not a sword:)
>> 
>> Good luck.
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> INDIGO LF38
>> Halifax, NS.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Dec 11, 2013, at 7:33 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>> 
>> Hey Folks,
>> 
>> I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped with 
>> the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to be 
>> quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they 
>> are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber  
>> separates.
>> 
>> The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO may 
>> have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair 
>> appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on 
>> themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the 
>> aft pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the 
>> forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene) 
>> blocks.
>> 
>> Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in fou

Re: Stus-List C&C 30MK!

[Antoine Rose]

Don't forget to add for the windvane and antenna, plus safety margin.
You,re safe to go under any bridge with 45 clearance. Add another safety margin 
for high tension electric wires (beware of lightning arc between the wire and 
your boat.

Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)

Le 2013-12-10 à 23:26, Chuck S a écrit :

> Hi Curtis,
> Checked the brochure section of Stu's website, mast height of the C&C 30 MkI, 
>  42' 6" above waterline.
> 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> From: "Curtis" 
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 9:54:05 PM
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 30MK!
> 
> Any one know the Height of the mast on an 1981 C&C 30MK1 ?
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Don Newman]

Perhaps it is a function of how flexible is flexible. If both are relatively 
solid i could see it working.  In my case both were quite flexible (Volvo 
engine and chain coupler) the two started whipsawing against one another. The 
solid coupling I replaced it with was still trouble free 35 years later. 



Don Newman
C&C 44

> On Dec 11, 2013, at 17:54, Rich Knowles  wrote:
> 
> Hmmm. Interesting but I have to tell you I have had regular flexible mounts 
> and a Drive Saver flexible coupling on my boat for 15 years with no problems. 
>  Others may wish to comment. 
> 
> Rich
> 
>> On Dec 11, 2013, at 18:47, Don Newman  wrote:
>> 
>> Good post Rick, but one quibble.
>> If an engine has flexible mounts then it must have a solid not flexible 
>> coupling and vice versa.
>> 
>> I made that mistake when I repose red my last boat and the coupling 
>> destroyed itself with extreme prejudice in a couple of hours of running.  
>> Everything was aligned but the two components worked against each other. 
>> 
>> I learned later that this is an inflexible rule ;-)  sorry I can't provide a 
>> reference but my painful experience bears it out. The original had a solid 
>> mount and flexible coupling and the new engine had flexible mounts so I used 
>> the very substantial coupling.  
>> 
>> 
>> Don Newman
>> C&C 44
>> 
>> 
>>> On Dec 11, 2013, at 14:45, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Josh:
>>> 
>>> I just had a look at mounts on the PYI site: 
>>> http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=engine-mounts&sn=1
>>> 
>>> Their widget allows you to insert the dimensions of your existing mounts so 
>>> you can receive new mounts that should simply replace the  existing units 
>>> with no drilling or other fiddling. I trust you completed that exercise and 
>>> have received the correct units. Note, they are not stainless but zinc 
>>> plated.
>>> 
>>> Many of our boats came with some sort of metal members in the engine 
>>> mounting system and I suggest leaving well enough alone unless you have 
>>> good reason to make changes. If you do one mount at a time, you should be 
>>> able to simply undo the bolts, back off the positioning nuts, remove and 
>>> replace the old mount and, after all have been replaced, adjust the mounts 
>>> to position the engine correctly.
>>> 
>>> Well before you start, I suggest soaking the mounting bolts and nuts and 
>>> your propeller shaft flange connecting nuts and bolts with one of the 
>>> proven rust busters previously discussed on this forum.
>>> 
>>> Also, before you undo the existing mounts or make any changes to the 
>>> adjustment nut positions, I suggest you measure and record the distance 
>>> between the underside of each engine mounting bracket to the top of the bed 
>>> under it and use that measurement to set the top of the bottom nut of each 
>>> of the new mounts. Even if an old mount has settled, it will give you a 
>>> reasonable starting point to start aligning the engine.
>>> 
>>> Aligning the engine after installing the new mounts will be another chore. 
>>> This involves undoing the bolts connecting the propeller shaft flange to 
>>> the engine shaft flange and fiddling with the nuts on the mounts until the 
>>> shaft is centred in the shaft tunnel, the flanges are concentric and the 
>>> engine is aligned so the clearance between the flanges is equal or within 
>>> .001 - .002" all around. This can be a tricky job and will test your 
>>> patience, but needs to be done as best as possible. After this is done, the 
>>> system should be reasonably vibration free. Ideally the final alignment 
>>> should be done after the engine has settled on the new mounts for a few 
>>> days and the boat is in the water.
>>> 
>>> To reduce alignment and vibration problems further, I highly recommend 
>>> installing a flexible shaft coupling which will absorb most of the 
>>> remaining shaft coupling misalignment which is inevitable, especially when 
>>> the system transitions from a static state to an operating, loaded 
>>> condition.
>>> 
>>> See: http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=shaft-coupling
>>> 
>>> Google will reveal many discussions of shaft alignment on the web. One of 
>>> the simplest illustrations is: http://www.ebasicpower.com/faq/alignib.htm
>>> 
>>> I also suggest checking your cutless bearing while you are fiddling with 
>>> the drive train. Note the spelling, it's not a sword:)
>>> 
>>> Good luck.
>>> 
>>> Rich Knowles
>>> INDIGO LF38
>>> Halifax, NS.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Dec 11, 2013, at 7:33 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hey Folks,
>>> 
>>> I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped with 
>>> the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to be 
>>> quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they 
>>> are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber  
>>> separates.
>>> 
>>> The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fa

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Martin DeYoung]

When I changed Calypso's engine mounts I used a scissor jack (<$30 from auto 
parts store).  I replaced one mount at a time to keep the change in alignment 
as small as possible.

The new alignment was straight forward with the proper sized wrenches and 
hammers.  The process Rich listed below is similar to what I used.

I did use the PYI sold mounts and after 4+ years and many hours all is well.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 2:15 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

I recall some inventive lister using a basketball as a jack under the engine, 
apparently it works really well, especially when you have limited clearance to 
fit a regular jack.

On 11 December 2013 12:16, David 
mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com>> wrote:
FWIW when I did mine I left the alignment to a professional.

IMHO...money well spent.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


From: r...@sailpower.ca
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 15:45:45 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
Josh:

I just had a look at mounts on the PYI site: 
http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=engine-mounts&sn=1

Their widget allows you to insert the dimensions of your existing mounts so you 
can receive new mounts that should simply replace the  existing units with no 
drilling or other fiddling. I trust you completed that exercise and have 
received the correct units. Note, they are not stainless but zinc plated.

Many of our boats came with some sort of metal members in the engine mounting 
system and I suggest leaving well enough alone unless you have good reason to 
make changes. If you do one mount at a time, you should be able to simply undo 
the bolts, back off the positioning nuts, remove and replace the old mount and, 
after all have been replaced, adjust the mounts to position the engine 
correctly.

Well before you start, I suggest soaking the mounting bolts and nuts and your 
propeller shaft flange connecting nuts and bolts with one of the proven rust 
busters previously discussed on this forum.

Also, before you undo the existing mounts or make any changes to the adjustment 
nut positions, I suggest you measure and record the distance between the 
underside of each engine mounting bracket to the top of the bed under it and 
use that measurement to set the top of the bottom nut of each of the new 
mounts. Even if an old mount has settled, it will give you a reasonable 
starting point to start aligning the engine.

Aligning the engine after installing the new mounts will be another chore. This 
involves undoing the bolts connecting the propeller shaft flange to the engine 
shaft flange and fiddling with the nuts on the mounts until the shaft is 
centred in the shaft tunnel, the flanges are concentric and the engine is 
aligned so the clearance between the flanges is equal or within .001 - .002" 
all around. This can be a tricky job and will test your patience, but needs to 
be done as best as possible. After this is done, the system should be 
reasonably vibration free. Ideally the final alignment should be done after the 
engine has settled on the new mounts for a few days and the boat is in the 
water.

To reduce alignment and vibration problems further, I highly recommend 
installing a flexible shaft coupling which will absorb most of the remaining 
shaft coupling misalignment which is inevitable, especially when the system 
transitions from a static state to an operating, loaded condition.

See: http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=shaft-coupling

Google will reveal many discussions of shaft alignment on the web. One of the 
simplest illustrations is: http://www.ebasicpower.com/faq/alignib.htm

I also suggest checking your cutless bearing while you are fiddling with the 
drive train. Note the spelling, it's not a sword:)

Good luck.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.




On Dec 11, 2013, at 7:33 AM, Josh Muckley 
mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Hey Folks,

I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped with the 
original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look to be quite 
high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs, they are 
positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the rubber  
separates.

The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO may 
have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair 
appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on 
themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the aft 
pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the forward 
foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene) blocks.

Sitting between the en

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Jake Brodersen]

I replaced my original Yanmar mounts a couple years ago (probably four or 
five).  I also use the Drive Saver from PYI.  Self-aligned and no issues to 
date.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 5:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

 

Hmmm. Interesting but I have to tell you I have had regular flexible mounts and 
a Drive Saver flexible coupling on my boat for 15 years with no problems.  
Others may wish to comment. 

Rich


On Dec 11, 2013, at 18:47, Don Newman  wrote:

Good post Rick, but one quibble.

If an engine has flexible mounts then it must have a solid not flexible 
coupling and vice versa.

 

I made that mistake when I repose red my last boat and the coupling destroyed 
itself with extreme prejudice in a couple of hours of running.  Everything was 
aligned but the two components worked against each other. 

 

I learned later that this is an inflexible rule ;-)  sorry I can't provide a 
reference but my painful experience bears it out. The original had a solid 
mount and flexible coupling and the new engine had flexible mounts so I used 
the very substantial coupling.  

 


Don Newman

C&C 44

 





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Re: Stus-List bowsprit/asym

[Eric Baumes]

Dennis,

Easy is a relative term. There don't appear to be any "off the shelf"
removable sprits, particularly for old boats. So I imagine it would be
custom fabrication.

A friend of mine races on a Kerr 50 last summer and they has such an
arrangement, complete with multiple sprits for different race types
(buoy/offshore) deliver, etc.

The on-deck sprits are relatively easy to install. You just need to mount
two attachments points.

Eric

___

"I want 10,000 tough guys, and I want 10,000 soft guys to make the tough
guys look tougher! And here's how I want them arranged: tough, soft, tough,
tough, soft, tough, soft, soft, tough, tough, soft, soft, tough, soft,
tough, soft!"

*Russ Cargill*



On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 12:02 AM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> I don't disagree with Will.  I watch the sprit boats sailing those wide
> angles, adding to course, and really wonder sometimes.  It all equals out
> in the end.  :)  Of course, when they get up on plane, it's a wee bit
> different.
>
> I read these posts on foredeck mounted sprit kits and wonder if it
> wouldn't be easier to just to do something along the lines of the new C&C
> 30.  That is, a composite mounting bracket that mounts down each side of
> the bow just under the toerail and a removable sprit and bob stay.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>   --
>  *From:* Will Harris 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, December 8, 2013 10:25 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List bowsprit/asym
>
> For the boats you guys are talking about, C&C 34, C&C 40s etc., in
> fairness you should get a hefty PHRF CREDIT, for switching to asyms.
> You guys can cream the sprit boats dead down in moderate breeze.  Just
> pull the pole back and aim for the mark.
>
> I sailed an RCYC Open a few years back on a really well-sailed Bene
> 10.4, ( awful boat... but I digress).
> "Red Jacket" was in our class and we owed her a bunch of time.  We'd
> dust her upwind, then go reaching around on our gybe angles.  She'd
> round behind, square back and just grind our bendy, french asses into dust.
>
> If it was a 5 leg course, we had a chance. Downwind finish??...
> fageddaboudit.
>
> Not all PHRF committees have figured this out.  If you do switch, your
> rating should get significantly BETTER.  Sadly, it probably won't.
>
> --
> Will Harris
> Waterline Systems
>
> 716-531-6088
>
>
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
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