I recall some inventive lister using a basketball as a jack under the
engine, apparently it works really well, especially when you have limited
clearance to fit a regular jack.


On 11 December 2013 12:16, David <davidrisc...@msn.com> wrote:

> FWIW when I did mine I left the alignment to a professional.
>
> IMHO...money well spent.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> ------------------------------
> From: r...@sailpower.ca
> Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 15:45:45 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
>
> Josh:
>
> I just had a look at mounts on the PYI site:
> http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=engine-mounts&sn=1
>
> Their widget allows you to insert the dimensions of your existing mounts
> so you can receive new mounts that should simply replace the  existing
> units with no drilling or other fiddling. I trust you completed that
> exercise and have received the correct units. Note, they are not stainless
> but zinc plated.
>
> Many of our boats came with some sort of metal members in the engine
> mounting system and I suggest leaving well enough alone unless you have
> good reason to make changes. If you do one mount at a time, you should be
> able to simply undo the bolts, back off the positioning nuts, remove and
> replace the old mount and, after all have been replaced, adjust the mounts
> to position the engine correctly.
>
> Well before you start, I suggest soaking the mounting bolts and nuts and
> your propeller shaft flange connecting nuts and bolts with one of the
> proven rust busters previously discussed on this forum.
>
> Also, before you undo the existing mounts or make any changes to the
> adjustment nut positions, I suggest you measure and record the distance
> between the underside of each engine mounting bracket to the top of the bed
> under it and use that measurement to set the top of the bottom nut of each
> of the new mounts. Even if an old mount has settled, it will give you a
> reasonable starting point to start aligning the engine.
>
> Aligning the engine after installing the new mounts will be another chore.
> This involves undoing the bolts connecting the propeller shaft flange to
> the engine shaft flange and fiddling with the nuts on the mounts until the
> shaft is centred in the shaft tunnel, the flanges are concentric and the
> engine is aligned so the clearance between the flanges is equal or within
> .001 - .002" all around. This can be a tricky job and will test your
> patience, but needs to be done as best as possible. After this is done, the
> system should be reasonably vibration free. Ideally the final alignment
> should be done after the engine has settled on the new mounts for a few
> days and the boat is in the water.
>
> To reduce alignment and vibration problems further, I highly recommend
> installing a flexible shaft coupling which will absorb most of the
> remaining shaft coupling misalignment which is inevitable, especially when
> the system transitions from a static state to an operating, loaded
> condition.
>
> See:
> http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=shaft-coupling
>
> Google will reveal many discussions of shaft alignment on the web. One of
> the simplest illustrations is: http://www.ebasicpower.com/faq/alignib.htm
>
> I also suggest checking your cutless bearing while you are fiddling with
> the drive train. Note the spelling, it's not a sword:)
>
> Good luck.
>
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO LF38
> Halifax, NS.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Dec 11, 2013, at 7:33 AM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Folks,
>
> I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped
> with the original Yanmar 3HM35F.   I purchased mounts from PYI.  They look
> to be quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS.  Unlike OEMs,
> they are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the
> rubber  separates.
>
> The previous mounts were not OEM either.  In fact it appears that the PO
> may have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair
> appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on
> themselves.  At first glance I thought they were different designs from the
> aft pair.  Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the
> forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene)
> blocks.
>
> Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the
> boat there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates.  They run the full length
> and width of each port and starboard foundation rail.  Because of the
> clearly redesigned nature of the situation I began to question if these
> aluminum plates should be there or if they too were part of the PO's
> engineering.
>
> I'm looking for thoughts and advice regarding the engine mount replacement
> task as well as the appropriateness of the aluminum plates.  It would also
> be helpful if anyone has torques specs or design details of the fiberglass
> foundation.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Yanmar 3HM35F
> Solomons, MD
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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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