I recall some inventive lister using a basketball as a jack under the engine, apparently it works really well, especially when you have limited clearance to fit a regular jack.
On 11 December 2013 12:16, David <davidrisc...@msn.com> wrote: > FWIW when I did mine I left the alignment to a professional. > > IMHO...money well spent. > > David F. Risch > 1981 40-2 > (401) 419-4650 (cell) > > > ------------------------------ > From: r...@sailpower.ca > Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 15:45:45 -0400 > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts > > Josh: > > I just had a look at mounts on the PYI site: > http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=engine-mounts&sn=1 > > Their widget allows you to insert the dimensions of your existing mounts > so you can receive new mounts that should simply replace the existing > units with no drilling or other fiddling. I trust you completed that > exercise and have received the correct units. Note, they are not stainless > but zinc plated. > > Many of our boats came with some sort of metal members in the engine > mounting system and I suggest leaving well enough alone unless you have > good reason to make changes. If you do one mount at a time, you should be > able to simply undo the bolts, back off the positioning nuts, remove and > replace the old mount and, after all have been replaced, adjust the mounts > to position the engine correctly. > > Well before you start, I suggest soaking the mounting bolts and nuts and > your propeller shaft flange connecting nuts and bolts with one of the > proven rust busters previously discussed on this forum. > > Also, before you undo the existing mounts or make any changes to the > adjustment nut positions, I suggest you measure and record the distance > between the underside of each engine mounting bracket to the top of the bed > under it and use that measurement to set the top of the bottom nut of each > of the new mounts. Even if an old mount has settled, it will give you a > reasonable starting point to start aligning the engine. > > Aligning the engine after installing the new mounts will be another chore. > This involves undoing the bolts connecting the propeller shaft flange to > the engine shaft flange and fiddling with the nuts on the mounts until the > shaft is centred in the shaft tunnel, the flanges are concentric and the > engine is aligned so the clearance between the flanges is equal or within > .001 - .002" all around. This can be a tricky job and will test your > patience, but needs to be done as best as possible. After this is done, the > system should be reasonably vibration free. Ideally the final alignment > should be done after the engine has settled on the new mounts for a few > days and the boat is in the water. > > To reduce alignment and vibration problems further, I highly recommend > installing a flexible shaft coupling which will absorb most of the > remaining shaft coupling misalignment which is inevitable, especially when > the system transitions from a static state to an operating, loaded > condition. > > See: > http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=shaft-coupling > > Google will reveal many discussions of shaft alignment on the web. One of > the simplest illustrations is: http://www.ebasicpower.com/faq/alignib.htm > > I also suggest checking your cutless bearing while you are fiddling with > the drive train. Note the spelling, it's not a sword:) > > Good luck. > > Rich Knowles > INDIGO LF38 > Halifax, NS. > > > > > > On Dec 11, 2013, at 7:33 AM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Hey Folks, > > I'm in the process of replacing my engine mounts on Sea Hawk, equipped > with the original Yanmar 3HM35F. I purchased mounts from PYI. They look > to be quite high quality mounts and appear to be made of SS. Unlike OEMs, > they are positively captured so your engine won't go flying lose if the > rubber separates. > > The previous mounts were not OEM either. In fact it appears that the PO > may have over loaded them or installed used mounts because the forward pair > appeared very compressed, almost a 1/2 in shorter and kind of inverted on > themselves. At first glance I thought they were different designs from the > aft pair. Because they were short it looks like the PO had to build up the > forward foundations with some 5/8 or 1/2 inch starboard (polyethylene) > blocks. > > Sitting between the engine mounts and the glassed in foundation of the > boat there are 1/2 inch thick aluminum plates. They run the full length > and width of each port and starboard foundation rail. Because of the > clearly redesigned nature of the situation I began to question if these > aluminum plates should be there or if they too were part of the PO's > engineering. > > I'm looking for thoughts and advice regarding the engine mount replacement > task as well as the appropriateness of the aluminum plates. It would also > be helpful if anyone has torques specs or design details of the fiberglass > foundation. > > Thanks, > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Yanmar 3HM35F > Solomons, MD > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ This List is provided by > the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC
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