Re: Stus-List Thetis Rendezvous

2013-08-10 Thread Lee Youngblood

Hi Lynn & Tom,

You will enjoy the C&C Rendezvous, meet lots of 
C&C folks, tell lies, drink, eat, laugh a lot, 
help each other, and even learn a little, or a 
lot.  You might end up in a dinghy race, or get 
tagged by kids with water balloons.  There will 
be lots of smiles!  After dinner there was a fun 
raffle of mostly sailing swag.   We went last 
year, and you can check out the pics at: 
http://www.leeyoungbloodphoto.com/2012sites/BC_RDV_Trip/start.html


It was a great trip, fun RDV, and I expect at 
least a third of the group will be back. . .


We'll miss it!

Sadly, Lee



Lynn and I are attening the C&C Rendezvous on 
Thetis Island this week end...anyone else on 
this list going?  As this is our first, exactly 
what does one do at one of these?


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 Mk I heaving to

2013-08-10 Thread martin schulman
Bravo Antoine.
 
Although I have crossed no oceans with my Lucy I have cruised extensively from 
the New York City area to Maine and back many times. She takes the weather 
wonderfully but leaves a great deal to be desired in terms of interior 
accommodation and good sleeping bunks.
 
Yes the only good sea berth is the starboard settee unless you want to lose the 
table in which case it is possible to turn it into a full time bunk. 
Unfortunately once you do that you lose what also serves as the navigation 
table.
 
I have often thought of re-doing the interior but can't seem to come up with a 
design more functional than the original.
 
Thanks for adding your insights to this discussion.
 
Martin Schulman
 

 
> From: antoine.r...@videotron.ca
> Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 22:59:50 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 Mk I heaving to
> 
> Curtis,
> Yes, I brought the boat on the other side.
> The boat handled the sea very nicely and never concerned me. It is a very 
> sturdy boat. 
> Heaving to is very easy. Next time you're on a close-hauled course, simply 
> turn the wheel to tack but don't touch the foresail and let go the main. Once 
> the boat has slowed down, put the tiller off wind. The rudder attempts to 
> steer the boat upwind, the genoa prevent it from turning and the main will 
> bring the boat back upwind if the nose goes too far off wind. The boat will 
> heave to as well with only a small jib or no sail at all.
> 
> The boat is very seaworthy. The main issue with boat in a crossing is the 
> interior layout. Not enough good bunks for the crew. Equipped with canvas to 
> stop you from rolling off your bunk, the starboard bunk is the only real good 
> bunk on the boat. With three crew on the boat everybody wanted that bunk and 
> we switch turns. Forget the idea of sleeping in the forward cabin. At night, 
> with the table down to get a second bunk amidship on port side, there is no 
> place to sit inside for the crew on watch. I want a chart table for the next 
> trip across. A comfortable place where you can sit, write and read.
> 
> Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
> 
> 
> Le 2013-08-09 à 07:30, Curtis a écrit :
> 
> > Did you realy take your 30 to La Coruna in Spain? I would love to read
> > your blog. I too have a 30MK1 I am trying to learn of all the stories
> > and the handeling capibilitys this boat has? How do you heave to? Face
> > the wind cross up the sails and fall off the wind say to the left and
> > keep the wheel turned to the right?
> > How did Antoine Rose in open water.
> > Thanks for your help.
> > Cheers curtis.
> > 
> > 
> > On 8/8/13, Antoine Rose  wrote:
> >> A good idea would be to cover your shroud with quarter inch plastic tubing
> >> for the first, say, five feet. With this, the sheet will rub against the
> >> plastic rather than the cable. No chaffing this way. It's good to have it
> >> anyway to prevent chaffing all week at the slip when the genoa is furled 
> >> and
> >> the sheets are rubbing against the shroud.
> >> 
> >> I did heave to on one occasion on the ocean for bad weather reasons, mainly
> >> when rough weather was coming to get some rest (I was just south the of 
> >> Tail
> >> of the Grand Banks, bad weather is not fun in that vicinity). Remember to
> >> heave to BEFORE weather gets really bad to get a chance to rest a bit while
> >> you can. The C&C 30 heave to very well. If you have a wheel steering,
> >> blocking the wheeI with the brake is not enough in rough weather, you have
> >> to secure it with a line. I also have heave to on two occasions to repair
> >> the control line on the windvane after rounding La Coruna in Spain. I had 
> >> to
> >> crawl under the cockpit to do this. Interestingly, in three to four meters
> >> swell, the bottom of the cockpit locker was the most comfortable spot on 
> >> the
> >> boat.
> >> 
> >> Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Le 2013-08-08 à 17:55, martin schulman a écrit :
> >> 
> >>> Has anyone experience heaving to with a 30 1974. It seems to me that if it
> >>> is done the weather genny sheet would chafe a good deal on the weather
> >>> shrouds. Am I missing something? Martin
> >>> ___
> >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >> 
> >> 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> > change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
> > 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Sail Numbers

2013-08-10 Thread Ken Heaton
>From the Sail Canada website at:
http://www.sailing.ca/racing/offshore_racing_and_regulations/offshore_sail_numbers/

Offshore Sail Numbers

Sail numbers are required for boat identification while racing and are
useful for safety purposes. Sailboat owners must apply to the CYA for a
sail number unless the boat is affiliated with a CYA member class
association that issues its own sail numbers.

Offshore sail numbers may be obtained by applying to the CYA. *BC and
Alberta residents may contact BC Sailing to purchase their number.*

NEW Changes effective January 1st, 2008

*New pricing structure:*

*$50 - Change to ownership &/or boat particulars* for boats with a CYA
issued sail number

*$125 - Sequential sail number*

*$200 - Personalized sail number *(out of sequence). *NOTE: some numbers
are reserved as Collector numbers - see list below.*

*$500 - Collector sail number -* CYA has created a list of select collector
numbers - Click here for the list of Collector
numbers.

*Purchasing a sail number*
Complete the Offshore Sail Number Application
form
and
return it to the CYA. *Residents of BC and Alberta may contact BC Sailing
to purchase their number.*


On 10 August 2013 00:48,  wrote:

> I know it's been discussed before, but I wasn't listening?
> Just ordered a new kevlar Genoa.  What's the deal with sail numbers? How
> do you decide what number?
> Is hull serial number legit?
>
> Sam Salter
> C&C 26 Liquorice
> Ghost Lake Alberta
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List "Smile" or sump?

2013-08-10 Thread Jake Brodersen
Tim,

 

I'd love to see your photos as well.  I may be tackling some additional work
in my keel sump this next winter.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

   

cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Goodyear
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 2:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List "Smile" or sump?

 

Derek,

 

I had a similar crack on my 35-3.  We replaced all the tabbing in the keel
sump area and wet core adjacent to the area in addition to beefing up the
glass structure at the turn of the bilge on the exterior - not small
undertakings.  What have people tried to date?

 

I just shared some pictures of the repair(s) with you directly.

 

Tim

Mojito

1984 C&C 35-3

Branford, CT

On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:37 PM, Derek Leck  wrote:

I recently purchased a 1985 C & C mark II.

 

For the last two seasons I have battled a crack where the keel meets the
hull.  References to the "C & C smile" seem to be in reference to where the
glass meets the metal which is much lower than previously described.
Through research I am sadly coming to the conclusion that this has more to
do with the keel sump and a major design/build flaw.  Two different
companies have attempted to fix but in both cases the repairs were cosmetic
and failed miserably.

 

Any specific info pertaining this problem would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : 

Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
METZGERS  : :    www.metzgers.com
419.861.8611 x4824: :  fax: 419.861.3299
  

  
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Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: [SPAM]Re: transmissions in gear while sailing

2013-08-10 Thread Jake Brodersen
Martin,

You are correct.  The folding propeller is much more sensitive to the
orientation of the pin to ensure the blades fold correctly.  Having a blade
hanging down is probably the equivalent of dragging your foot in the water.
At 5 knots, this can represent a fair amount of force.  Even with bad
orientation, the blade will eventually be forced to fold, but will still
create some drag.

My shaft is marked so I can easily tell the pin orientation.  The port
locker is empty, except for a boat hook and scrub brush.  I used to climb in
and move the shaft by hand, but lately I just grad the boat hook and use it
to rotate the shaft collar.  

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA
   





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
DeYoung
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 9:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: transmissions in gear while sailing

I believe the shaft / prop pin location is more important with folding
propellers than feathering propellers.  For long races (like Transpac) the
orientation of a two bladed feathering prop would be monitored.

For long offshore races on boat equipped with the non-geared folding props,
just before the start on of the crew would dive over the side to place
rubber bands around the blades to hold them closed.  With two bladed MAX
props the shaft would be aligned with pre marked lines indicating the prop
was lined up with the strut.

Calypso has a three bladed MAX prop and we do not make any effort to align
the shaft.  Maybe I should look into marking it to put one of the three
blades behind the strut for those light air days.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 5:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: transmissions in gear while sailing

Jake
I have never thought about rotating the shaft so the blades are vertical. I
had sort if assumes that once feathered, the drag would be the same
irrespective of position. You must also keep a lot less junk in the
lazarette than I - making  it easy to access the shaft!

I do know that I will often shut down the engine while in neutral and then
start feeling the vibration from the spinning prop. At that point I just put
the transmission in reverse and the vibration stops. I have always assumed
that the blades would feather at that time. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Aug 9, 2013, at 20:20, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:

> Jonathan,
> 
> I position the prop to the blades are both retracted (i.e. the pivot 
> pin is
> vertical) before we start racing.  That way both blades are fully 
> retracted for the lowest drag.  I ran into a situation this summer 
> when we were motorsailing.  I shut down the engine, but the prop was 
> still free wheeling at about 7 knots.  I dropped the transmission into 
> reverse.  The prop stopped rotating, but  I wonder how good this is for
the transmission.
> Maybe I should have shut down the engine in forward instead.
> 
> Jake
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Midnight Mistress
> Hampton VA

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Re: Stus-List Sail Numbers

2013-08-10 Thread Andrew Burton
$125 for someone to assign you a sail number!? I'd just use my hull number and 
leave it at that. No club is going to reject your entry to a regatta or series 
because you didn't buy a number from CYA. These people are supposed to be doing 
all they can to make it easier to get into racing.

Andy
Peregrine
C&C 40 #143


Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Aug 10, 2013, at 7:07, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> From the Sail Canada website at: 
> http://www.sailing.ca/racing/offshore_racing_and_regulations/offshore_sail_numbers/
> 
> Offshore Sail Numbers
> 
> Sail numbers are required for boat identification while racing and are useful 
> for safety purposes. Sailboat owners must apply to the CYA for a sail number 
> unless the boat is affiliated with a CYA member class association that issues 
> its own sail numbers.
> 
> Offshore sail numbers may be obtained by applying to the CYA. BC and Alberta 
> residents may contact BC Sailing to purchase their number.
> 
> NEW Changes effective January 1st, 2008
> 
> New pricing structure:
> 
> $50 - Change to ownership &/or boat particulars for boats with a CYA issued 
> sail number
> 
> $125 - Sequential sail number
> 
> $200 - Personalized sail number (out of sequence). NOTE: some numbers are 
> reserved as Collector numbers - see list below.
> 
> $500 - Collector sail number - CYA has created a list of select collector 
> numbers - Click here for the list of Collector numbers.
> 
> Purchasing a sail number
> Complete the Offshore Sail Number Application form and return it to the CYA. 
> Residents of BC and Alberta may contact BC Sailing to purchase their number.
> 
> 
> 
> On 10 August 2013 00:48,  wrote:
>> I know it's been discussed before, but I wasn't listening? 
>> Just ordered a new kevlar Genoa.  What's the deal with sail numbers? How do 
>> you decide what number? 
>> Is hull serial number legit?
>> 
>> Sam Salter 
>> C&C 26 Liquorice 
>> Ghost Lake Alberta 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Sail Numbers

2013-08-10 Thread Ken Heaton
The charge is the same in the USA (unless you are a member of US Sailing,
then the cost is only $100.00).

"RE: Sail Numbers
This is an application for a US Sailing sail number. It is a five digit
number that we issue in sequence. There is a charge of $100 to members of
US Sailing and $125 to non-members. If you would like to proceed, and fax
back the following information, or mail it back with a check, we would than
forward a confirmation letter with the sail number assignment. If an email
address is provided the sail number assignment will be sent there.:

http://offshore.ussailing.org/Sail_Numbers.htm

Sail Canada (and US Sailing I assume) are more non-profit and volunteer
than for-profit.  They need to raise money somehow to operate and so
support and lobby for the sailing community.

Ken H.


On 10 August 2013 09:47, Andrew Burton  wrote:

> $125 for someone to assign you a sail number!? I'd just use my hull number
> and leave it at that. No club is going to reject your entry to a regatta or
> series because you didn't buy a number from CYA. These people are supposed
> to be doing all they can to make it easier to get into racing.
>
> Andy
> Peregrine
> C&C 40 #143
>
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Aug 10, 2013, at 7:07, Ken Heaton  wrote:
>
> From the Sail Canada website at:
> http://www.sailing.ca/racing/offshore_racing_and_regulations/offshore_sail_numbers/
>
> Offshore Sail Numbers
>
> Sail numbers are required for boat identification while racing and are
> useful for safety purposes. Sailboat owners must apply to the CYA for a
> sail number unless the boat is affiliated with a CYA member class
> association that issues its own sail numbers.
>
> Offshore sail numbers may be obtained by applying to the CYA. *BC and
> Alberta residents may contact BC Sailing to purchase their number.*
>
> NEW Changes effective January 1st, 2008
>
> *New pricing structure:*
>
> *$50 - Change to ownership &/or boat particulars* for boats with a CYA
> issued sail number
>
> *$125 - Sequential sail number*
>
> *$200 - Personalized sail number *(out of sequence). *NOTE: some numbers
> are reserved as Collector numbers - see list below.*
>
> *$500 - Collector sail number -* CYA has created a list of select
> collector numbers - Click here for the list of Collector 
> numbers.
>
> *Purchasing a sail number*
> Complete the Offshore Sail Number Application 
> form
>  and
> return it to the CYA. *Residents of BC and Alberta may contact BC Sailing
> to purchase their number.*
>
>
> On 10 August 2013 00:48,  wrote:
>
>> I know it's been discussed before, but I wasn't listening?
>> Just ordered a new kevlar Genoa.  What's the deal with sail numbers? How
>> do you decide what number?
>> Is hull serial number legit?
>>
>> Sam Salter
>> C&C 26 Liquorice
>> Ghost Lake Alberta
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sail Numbers

2013-08-10 Thread randy
IIRC, as this has been discussed, that's only necessary at the point you, or
your fleet, decides there is an issue w/ duplicate sail numbers, or you've
risen to the point that you're sailing across a wide enough geographic area
that, at the level of racing you've attained, there is an issue w/ duplicate
numbers.  Your boat likely came w/ sail numbers as the hull number - there
should only be one C&C 29-II w/ sail number 506; so if I'm sailing one
design w/ other 29-II's (in my dreams!) all is good.  If I'm sailing phrf,
and there is another boat in my class where I race w/ that number, it may be
beneficial to have an assigned number.  And the higher I get ranked
regionally, nationally, or globally, the more chance of dup numbers, hence
the assigned number.

 

randy

Tamanawas

29-II

Hood River, OR

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Heaton
Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 8:26 AM
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail Numbers

 

The charge is the same in the USA (unless you are a member of US Sailing,
then the cost is only $100.00).

 

"RE: Sail Numbers

This is an application for a US Sailing sail number. It is a five digit
number that we issue in sequence. There is a charge of $100 to members of US
Sailing and $125 to non-members. If you would like to proceed, and fax back
the following information, or mail it back with a check, we would than
forward a confirmation letter with the sail number assignment. If an email
address is provided the sail number assignment will be sent there.:

 

http://offshore.ussailing.org/Sail_Numbers.htm

 

Sail Canada (and US Sailing I assume) are more non-profit and volunteer than
for-profit.  They need to raise money somehow to operate and so support and
lobby for the sailing community.

 

Ken H.

 

On 10 August 2013 09:47, Andrew Burton  wrote:

$125 for someone to assign you a sail number!? I'd just use my hull number
and leave it at that. No club is going to reject your entry to a regatta or
series because you didn't buy a number from CYA. These people are supposed
to be doing all they can to make it easier to get into racing.

Andy

Peregrine

C&C 40 #143

 


Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Aug 10, 2013, at 7:07, Ken Heaton  wrote:

>From the Sail Canada website at:
http://www.sailing.ca/racing/offshore_racing_and_regulations/offshore_sail_n
umbers/

 


Offshore Sail Numbers


Sail numbers are required for boat identification while racing and are
useful for safety purposes. Sailboat owners must apply to the CYA for a sail
number unless the boat is affiliated with a CYA member class association
that issues its own sail numbers.

Offshore sail numbers may be obtained by applying to the CYA. BC and Alberta
residents may contact BC Sailing to purchase their number.

NEW Changes effective January 1st, 2008

New pricing structure:

$50 - Change to ownership &/or boat particulars for boats with a CYA issued
sail number

$125 - Sequential sail number

$200 - Personalized sail number (out of sequence). NOTE: some numbers are
reserved as Collector numbers - see list below.

$500 - Collector sail number - CYA has created a list of select collector
numbers -

Click here for the list of Collector numbers.

Purchasing a sail number
Complete the
 Offshore Sail Number Application form and return it to the
CYA. Residents of BC and Alberta may contact BC Sailing to purchase their
number.

 

On 10 August 2013 00:48,  wrote:

I know it's been discussed before, but I wasn't listening? 

Just ordered a new kevlar Genoa.  What's the deal with sail numbers? How do
you decide what number? 

Is hull serial number legit?

 

Sam Salter 

C&C 26 Liquorice 

Ghost Lake Alberta 


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Re: Stus-List Sail Numbers

2013-08-10 Thread Rick Brass
Sam;

 

Essentially, you only need a sail number if you are planning to race the boat. 
I had and older main (now sold) that had a black C&C with three black stripes 
(sort of like a black and white version of the C&C logo) and the number 25 for 
the length of the boat. I thought it was nice that there was an indication of 
manufacturer and length on the sail – Catalina does this on all their OEM 
mainsails IIRC.

 

If you race, depending on the area you are in, you probably need to have a sail 
number on the sails. The number is used for identification and scoring when 
racing. I suppose the Canadian Coast Guard might also like to have it for 
identification purposes. I seem to recall that is was one of the items on the 
description of the boat when I got my MMSI numbers.

 

Most folks seem to use the hull number as a sail number. I suppose you could 
use any number that had special meaning for you, if you chose. When I raced 
sports cars, I used 831 as the number on the car – my oldest daughter’s 
birthday is August 31st.

 

If you want an “official” 5 digit number You can get it issued by one of the 
regional authorities. If you go to the US Sailing website they will tell you 
where to go for a number in Canada, but I’m pretty sure that it is the Canadian 
Yachting Association. 

 

The 5 digit “official” number is assigned to a boat and stays the same over the 
life of the boat. It is probably more important for major regional and 
international events. You should not just “pick” a 5-digit number because it 
may well conflict with a number already assigned, though I suppose you could go 
to the US Sailing site and select from a range of numbers that have not been 
assigned, or are assigned to a region far from you to minimize the possibility 
of a conflict.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 11:49 PM
To: CnC
Subject: Stus-List Sail Numbers

 

‎I know it's been discussed before, but I wasn't listening? 

Just ordered a new kevlar Genoa.  ‎What's the deal with sail numbers? How do 
you decide what number? 

Is hull serial number legit?

 

Sam Salter 

C&C 26 Liquorice 

Ghost Lake Alberta 

‎

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Re: Stus-List "Smile" or sump?

2013-08-10 Thread Derek Leck
Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately for me my crack is about a foot higher. 
Mine crack is

On Aug 9, 2013, at 6:12 PM, "Dennis C." 
mailto:capt...@yahoo.com>> wrote:

How does your crack compare to these pictures?

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile

Try to tell us in detail, please.

Dennis C.




From: Derek Leck mailto:derek.l...@metzgers.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Friday, August 9, 2013 11:37 AM
Subject: Stus-List "Smile" or sump?

I recently purchased a 1985 C & C mark II.

For the last two seasons I have battled a crack where the keel meets the hull.  
References to the “C & C smile” seem to be in reference to where the glass 
meets the metal which is much lower than previously described.  Through 
research I am sadly coming to the conclusion that this has more to do with the 
keel sump and a major design/build flaw.  Two different companies have 
attempted to fix but in both cases the repairs were cosmetic and failed 
miserably.

Any specific info pertaining this problem would be greatly appreciated.



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Re: Stus-List "Smile" or sump?

2013-08-10 Thread Derek Leck

> Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately for me my crack is about a foot higher 
> right where the keel meets the hull. I will try to send a picture from my 
> desk top on Monday. In another blog I read in reference to faulty keel sumps 
> the owner stated there was a horrible odor associated. This is due to the 
> foam and/or balsa getting saturated. My boat has a fowl odor as well.
>
> On Aug 9, 2013, at 6:12 PM, "Dennis C." 
> mailto:capt...@yahoo.com>> wrote:
>
> How does your crack compare to these pictures?
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile
>
> Try to tell us in detail, please.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
>

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> From: Derek Leck mailto:derek.l...@metzgers.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Sent: Friday, August 9, 2013 11:37 AM
> Subject: Stus-List "Smile" or sump?
>
> I recently purchased a 1985 C & C mark II.
>
> For the last two seasons I have battled a crack where the keel meets the 
> hull.  References to the “C & C smile” seem to be in reference to where the 
> glass meets the metal which is much lower than previously described.  Through 
> research I am sadly coming to the conclusion that this has more to do with 
> the keel sump and a major design/build flaw.  Two different companies have 
> attempted to fix but in both cases the repairs were cosmetic and failed 
> miserably.
>
> Any specific info pertaining this problem would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
> : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
>
> Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
> METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
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> [http://www.metzgers.com/misc/EmailSig.jpg]
>
>
>
>
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>
> Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
> METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
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Stus-List Smile or sump.

2013-08-10 Thread Derek Leck
Here is best picture I have of my crack from last year.



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Re: Stus-List Smile or sump.

2013-08-10 Thread Brent Driedger
You say you just purchased this boat? Has a survey pointed to any possible hard 
grounding? I think you need to start some exploratory surgery there to see if 
this crack is the result of fractured fibreglass around the sump. That type of 
cracking looks structural to me and no amount of lipstick and mascara will fix 
that. I'm not sure of the layup of your hull but if its involving a balsa core 
and possibly combined with winter freezing cycles with trapped core water, it 
could be a serious issue there. Sorry I have no positives for you..
My uneducated opinion. 

Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
27-V
Lake Winnipeg after 50 hours of keel repair. 

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-08-10, at 1:38 PM, Derek Leck  wrote:

> Here is best picture I have of my crack from last year.
> 
> 
> 
> : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
> 
> Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
> METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
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> 
> Get Involved!
> http://www.metzgers.com/social-media
> 
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Re: Stus-List Smile or sump.

2013-08-10 Thread Derek Leck
This is my second season with this boat. I purchased from the widow of capt I 
raced with for 25 years.  I was aware of crack but no idea how severe a problem 
this could be (DUH) and had to have boat due to sentimental reasons. We raced 
boat but not seriously since 2007. Crack developed in 2010.
Any recommendation on a qualified shop to repair?  Western end of Lake Erie.


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On Aug 10, 2013, at 2:59 PM, "Brent Driedger"  wrote:

> You say you just purchased this boat? Has a survey pointed to any possible 
> hard grounding? I think you need to start some exploratory surgery there to 
> see if this crack is the result of fractured fibreglass around the sump. That 
> type of cracking looks structural to me and no amount of lipstick and mascara 
> will fix that. I'm not sure of the layup of your hull but if its involving a 
> balsa core and possibly combined with winter freezing cycles with trapped 
> core water, it could be a serious issue there. Sorry I have no positives for 
> you..
> My uneducated opinion.
>
> Brent Driedger
> s/v Wild Rover
> 27-V
> Lake Winnipeg after 50 hours of keel repair.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2013-08-10, at 1:38 PM, Derek Leck  wrote:
>
>> Here is best picture I have of my crack from last year.
>>
>>
>>
>> : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
>>
>> Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
>> METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
>> 419.861.8611 x4824  : :  fax: 419.861.3299
>>
>> Get Involved!
>> http://www.metzgers.com/social-media
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Thetis Rendezvous

2013-08-10 Thread Russ & Melody

Hi Lee,

Well said and true.

Thanks for the link to images. Beautiful 
photography and it was a walk down memory lane.


Melody & I have also missed this year's 
rendezvous... we both have work interfering with the weekend.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 10:36 PM 09/08/2013, you wrote:

Hi Lynn & Tom,

You will enjoy the C&C Rendezvous, meet lots of 
C&C folks, tell lies, drink, eat, laugh a lot, 
help each other, and even learn a little, or a 
lot.  You might end up in a dinghy race, or get 
tagged by kids with water balloons.  There will 
be lots of smiles!  After dinner there was a fun 
raffle of mostly sailing swag.   We went last 
year, and you can check out the pics at: 
http://www.leeyoungbloodphoto.com/2012sites/BC_RDV_Trip/start.html


It was a great trip, fun RDV, and I expect at 
least a third of the group will be back. . .


We'll miss it!

Sadly, Lee



Lynn and I are attening the C&C Rendezvous on 
Thetis Island this week end...anyone else on 
this list going?  As this is our first, exactly 
what does one do at one of these?


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List Smile or sump.

2013-08-10 Thread Steve Thomas

St. Clair Marine, which is on the Canadian side at La Salle on the Detroit 
river does decent work, but they are not cheap. Repairs
and storage is what they do, and they seem to do a fair bit of both. I had a 
look around when I was looking at an Islander 36 that
was for sale there in January of 2009. I really don't know if he is more 
expensive than anyone else, but an aquaintance of mine
with a C&C 29 had some collision damage repaired there 2 years ago. An idiot in 
another sailboat had T-boned him while he was at
anchor near the beach, with his kids swimming in the water around the boat. 
Charges were laid. Anyway there was damage to the toe
rail, hull, and deck at the point of collision and when he got the boat back 
you couldn't tell any thing had happened. The damage
visible from the outside was maybe a foot long tops, but penetrating. The bill 
was around 15 grand if I recall correctly, but it
was an insurance job, and sometimes that makes a difference. I would certainly 
shop around, both for competence and price.
   South Shore Yachts might be worth contacting since they were formed in part 
from the remanents of C&C. I don't think that they
tackle repairs of that nature, but it might be worth seeking advice there 
anyway given their particular knowledge of C&C yachts. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Derek
Leck
Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 3:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Smile or sump.


This is my second season with this boat. I purchased from the widow of capt I 
raced with for 25 years.  I was aware of crack but
no idea how severe a problem this could be (DUH) and had to have boat due to 
sentimental reasons. We raced boat but not seriously
since 2007. Crack developed in 2010.
Any recommendation on a qualified shop to repair?  Western end of Lake Erie.


: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :

Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
419.861.8611 x4824  : :  fax: 419.861.3299

Get Involved!
http://www.metzgers.com/social-media
On Aug 10, 2013, at 2:59 PM, "Brent Driedger"  wrote:

> You say you just purchased this boat? Has a survey pointed to any possible 
> hard grounding? I think you need to start some
exploratory surgery there to see if this crack is the result of fractured 
fibreglass around the sump. That type of cracking looks
structural to me and no amount of lipstick and mascara will fix that. I'm not 
sure of the layup of your hull but if its involving
a balsa core and possibly combined with winter freezing cycles with trapped 
core water, it could be a serious issue there. Sorry I
have no positives for you..
> My uneducated opinion.
>
> Brent Driedger
> s/v Wild Rover
> 27-V
> Lake Winnipeg after 50 hours of keel repair.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2013-08-10, at 1:38 PM, Derek Leck  wrote:
>
>> Here is best picture I have of my crack from last year.
>>
>>
>>
>> : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
>>
>> Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
>> METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
>> 419.861.8611 x4824  : :  fax: 419.861.3299
>>
>> Get Involved!
>> http://www.metzgers.com/social-media
>> 
>> ___
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>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Smile or sump.

2013-08-10 Thread Derek Leck
Thanks Steve.  I will investigate.



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On Aug 10, 2013, at 4:20 PM, "Steve Thomas"  wrote:

>
> St. Clair Marine, which is on the Canadian side at La Salle on the Detroit 
> river does decent work, but they are not cheap. Repairs and storage is what 
> they do, and they seem to do a fair bit of both. I had a look around when I 
> was looking at an Islander 36 that was for sale there in January of 2009. I 
> really don't know if he is more expensive than anyone else, but an 
> aquaintance of mine with a C&C 29 had some collision damage repaired there 2 
> years ago. An idiot in another sailboat had T-boned him while he was at 
> anchor near the beach, with his kids swimming in the water around the boat. 
> Charges were laid. Anyway there was damage to the toe rail, hull, and deck at 
> the point of collision and when he got the boat back you couldn't tell any 
> thing had happened. The damage visible from the outside was maybe a foot long 
> tops, but penetrating. The bill was around 15 grand if I recall correctly, 
> but it was an insurance job, and sometimes that makes a difference. I would 
> certainly shop arou
 nd, both for competence and price.
>   South Shore Yachts might be worth contacting since they were formed in part 
> from the remanents of C&C. I don't think that they tackle repairs of that 
> nature, but it might be worth seeking advice there anyway given their 
> particular knowledge of C&C yachts.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Derek
> Leck
> Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 3:21 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Smile or sump.
>
>
> This is my second season with this boat. I purchased from the widow of capt I 
> raced with for 25 years.  I was aware of crack but no idea how severe a 
> problem this could be (DUH) and had to have boat due to sentimental reasons. 
> We raced boat but not seriously since 2007. Crack developed in 2010.
> Any recommendation on a qualified shop to repair?  Western end of Lake Erie.
>
>
> : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
>
> Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
> METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
> 419.861.8611 x4824  : :  fax: 419.861.3299
>
> Get Involved!
> http://www.metzgers.com/social-media
> On Aug 10, 2013, at 2:59 PM, "Brent Driedger"  
> wrote:
>
>> You say you just purchased this boat? Has a survey pointed to any possible 
>> hard grounding? I think you need to start some exploratory surgery there to 
>> see if this crack is the result of fractured fibreglass around the sump. 
>> That type of cracking looks structural to me and no amount of lipstick and 
>> mascara will fix that. I'm not sure of the layup of your hull but if its 
>> involving a balsa core and possibly combined with winter freezing cycles 
>> with trapped core water, it could be a serious issue there. Sorry I have no 
>> positives for you..
>> My uneducated opinion.
>>
>> Brent Driedger
>> s/v Wild Rover
>> 27-V
>> Lake Winnipeg after 50 hours of keel repair.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On 2013-08-10, at 1:38 PM, Derek Leck  wrote:
>>
>>> Here is best picture I have of my crack from last year.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
>>>
>>> Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
>>> METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
>>> 419.861.8611 x4824  : :  fax: 419.861.3299
>>>
>>> Get Involved!
>>> http://www.metzgers.com/social-media
>>> 
>>> ___
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>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List Smile or sump.

2013-08-10 Thread cenelson
I agree that it definitely needs investigated. 


OTOH, the crack may be in the overlaying fiberglass/gelcoat/paint, assuming 
there is some on your keel--can't see from the picture.


The leading edge of my centerboard trunk is covered with glass/paint and it has 
been removed several times to get to the centerboard pin,
which is under the glass and held in place with 2 SS plates which must be 
accessed (via removing the fiberglass) before they can be 
removed so that the pin can be removed to drop the board.


If the crack is definitely in the lead, it needs fixed and that would likely be 
expensive.


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb


 


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Derek Leck 
To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list 
Sent: Sat, Aug 10, 2013 2:39 pm
Subject: Stus-List Smile or sump.


Here is best picture I have of my crack from last year.



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Re: Stus-List Smile or sump.

2013-08-10 Thread Derek Leck
Thanks Charlie.

On Aug 10, 2013, at 4:38 PM, "cenel...@aol.com" 
mailto:cenel...@aol.com>> wrote:

I agree that it definitely needs investigated.

OTOH, the crack may be in the overlaying fiberglass/gelcoat/paint, assuming 
there is some on your keel--can't see from the picture.

The leading edge of my centerboard trunk is covered with glass/paint and it has 
been removed several times to get to the centerboard pin,
which is under the glass and held in place with 2 SS plates which must be 
accessed (via removing the fiberglass) before they can be
removed so that the pin can be removed to drop the board.

If the crack is definitely in the lead, it needs fixed and that would likely be 
expensive.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb



cenel...@aol.com





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[http://www.metzgers.com/misc/EmailSig.jpg]

-Original Message-
From: Derek Leck mailto:derek.l...@metzgers.com>>
To: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@yahoo.com>>; cnc-list 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Sat, Aug 10, 2013 2:39 pm
Subject: Stus-List Smile or sump.


Here is best picture I have of my crack from last year.



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Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Smile or sump.

2013-08-10 Thread Jake Brodersen
Derek,

I agree with the others that this issue needs some closer examination by a 
professional yard to determine the extent of the cracking and the possible 
repair.  I've had several cracks in the keep sump repaired.  The glass work 
wasn't too expensive, compared to the keel R&R I did many years ago.  IIRC, the 
hull near the keel sump should not be cored.  It should be a solid layup to 
carry the load from the keel.  The sump itself is not cored.  Yes, I have the 
odor too.  Still haven't solved that one...

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA
   





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Derek Leck
Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 2:39 PM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Stus-List Smile or sump.

Here is best picture I have of my crack from last year.



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Stus-List Solar Vents

2013-08-10 Thread Persuasion
Has any one removed Nicro solar vents.  It looks as though they may be applied 
from the outside held in place by caulking.  I removed the outside SS cover and 
if I started the fan it would continue to run for a few seconds.  It was very 
dirty and I want to remove it to clean it. It is applied over the cowl vent so 
I cannot access it from the inside.

Thanks

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
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Re: Stus-List Solar Vents

2013-08-10 Thread Steve Thomas
Unless it is the new style, just pull on it and wiggle it from side to side at 
the same time. Think flexible plastic hose barb
stuck into a pastic tube. Same as the Nicro vents which are not solar, like the 
ones on the top of the transom of most C&C yachts.
Not sure your 37 has them, but most of the older models do. If the PO had a 
leak and decided to glue it in with some sort of
calking then all bets are off, but that is how it is supposed to work.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Persuasion
Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 5:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Solar Vents


Has any one removed Nicro solar vents.  It looks as though they may be applied 
from the outside held in place by caulking.  I
removed the outside SS cover and if I started the fan it would continue to run 
for a few seconds.  It was very dirty and I want to
remove it to clean it. It is applied over the cowl vent so I cannot access it 
from the inside.

Thanks

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
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Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Smile or sump.

2013-08-10 Thread Derek Leck
Thanks Jake.

DereK
33 Mark II
MELAN
Toledo, Ohio



: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :

Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
419.861.8611 x4824  : :  fax: 419.861.3299

Get Involved!
http://www.metzgers.com/social-media
On Aug 10, 2013, at 5:34 PM, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:

> Derek,
>
> I agree with the others that this issue needs some closer examination by a 
> professional yard to determine the extent of the cracking and the possible 
> repair.  I've had several cracks in the keep sump repaired.  The glass work 
> wasn't too expensive, compared to the keel R&R I did many years ago.  IIRC, 
> the hull near the keel sump should not be cored.  It should be a solid layup 
> to carry the load from the keel.  The sump itself is not cored.  Yes, I have 
> the odor too.  Still haven't solved that one...
>
> Jake
>
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Midnight Mistress
> Hampton VA
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Derek Leck
> Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 2:39 PM
> To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: [SPAM]Stus-List Smile or sump.
>
> Here is best picture I have of my crack from last year.
>
>
>
> : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
>
> Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
> METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
> 419.861.8611 x4824  : :  fax: 419.861.3299
>
> Get Involved!
> http://www.metzgers.com/social-media
>
>
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Solar Vents

2013-08-10 Thread Russ & Melody

Hi Mike,

Like Steve says, mine are friction fit to a deck plate, with a round 
foam gasket kinda like an O-ring as the seal. Wiggle & lift to remove.


This list is better 'n google :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet mk-1

At 02:55 PM 10/08/2013, you wrote:
Unless it is the new style, just pull on it and wiggle it from side 
to side at the same time. Think flexible plastic hose barb stuck 
into a pastic tube. Same as the Nicro vents which are not solar, 
like the ones on the top of the transom of most C&C yachts. Not sure 
your 37 has them, but most of the older models do. If the PO had a 
leak and decided to glue it in with some sort of calking then all 
bets are off, but that is how it is supposed to work.


Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Persuasion
Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 5:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Solar Vents

Has any one removed Nicro solar vents.  It looks as though they may 
be applied from the outside held in place by caulking.  I removed 
the outside SS cover and if I started the fan it would continue to 
run for a few seconds.  It was very dirty and I want to remove it to 
clean it. It is applied over the cowl vent so I cannot access it 
from the inside.


Thanks

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
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Re: Stus-List MAST STEP MATERIAL

2013-08-10 Thread Russ & Melody

Hi Rick,
I think Wally or one of the other geeks  
covered this off last winter... it has something 
to do with an earth standard of interplanetary vehicle designation, yada yada.


http://www.bbc.co.uk/cult/st/interviews/jefferies/page6.shtml

(Note the cult part of the BBC site, cute)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:28 PM 08/08/2013, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_026A_01CE9486.9CBACF20"
Content-Language: en-us

Edd;

Shouldn’t that be FSS for Federation Starship?

Somehow “USS Enterprise” sounds so star date 11300.

And now that I think about it, just what does 
the NCC in NCC-1701 stand for anyway?


Live Long and Prosper,

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay

Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 1:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MAST STEP MATERIAL

The USS Enterprise was built with titanium….

http://mirzmaster.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/star_trek_2009-enterprise_construction1.png 





  All the best,

  Edd


  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

On Aug 7, 2013, at 1:16 PM, cenel...@aol.com wrote:


The USS Constitution was built with pine and 
oak, including "live oak". Her 21 inch thick 
wooden hull helped her defeat 5 British ships in the War of 1812!



The name Constitution was selected by President 
George 
Washington.[14] 
Her keel was laid down on 1 November 1794 at 
Edmund 
 Hartt's shipyard in Boston, Massachusetts, 
under the supervision of Captain 
Samuel 
Nicholson and naval constructor Colonel 
George 
Claghorn.[15][16] 
Primary materials used in her construction 
consisted of pine and oak, including 
southern 
live oak, which was cut and milled near 
St. 
Simons, 
Georgia.[16] 
Constitution's hull was built 21 inches (530 mm) 
thick and her 
length 
between perpendiculars was 175 ft (53 m), with a 
204 ft (62 m) 
length 
overall and a width of 43 ft 6 in (13.26 
m).[2][4] 
In total, 60 acres (24 ha) of trees were needed for her construction.


Presumably a mast step could be constructed with 
considerably less than 60 acres of trees!


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
North Carolina


cenel...@aol.com

-Original Message-
From: Knowles Rich <r...@sailpower.ca>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Wed, Aug 7, 2013 11:51 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List MAST STEP MATERIAL
"Live oak". Do you have to plant it in the bilge and wait?
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-07, at 12:36, cenel...@aol.com wrote:
If you really want to use wood, and can find it, 
live oak is probably the best wood for strength. 
It was highly sought after for knees, etc. of 
the wooden sailing ships of the 1700-1800s.



Live oak was widely used in early American 
butt 
 shipbuilding. Because of the trees' short 
height and low-hanging branches, lumber from 
live oak was specifically used to make curved 
structural members of the hull, such as knee 
braces (single-piece, inverted L-shaped braces 
that spring inward from the side and support a 
ship's deck). In such cuts of lumber, the line 
of the grain would fall perpendicularly to lines 
of stress, creating structures of exceptional 
strength. Live oaks were not generally used for 
planking because the curved and often convoluted 
shape of the tree did not lend itself to be 
milled to planking of any length. Red oak or 
white oak was generally used for planking on 
vessels, as those trees tended to grow straight 
and tall and thus would yield straight trunk 
sections of length suitable for milling into plank lengths.
Live oak was largely logged out in Europe by the 
latter half of the 19th century, and was 
similarly sought after and exported from the 
United States until iron- a

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 Shrouds and Speaders

2013-08-10 Thread Tom O'Keeffe

Makes sense. Thanks.

-Original Message- 
From: Rich Knowles

Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 11:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 Shrouds and Speaders

Drill holes through the spreader and base when they are properly aligned to 
a=commodate the next size up pin.


Rich
(mobile)

On 2012-08-11, at 11:38, O'Keeffe Thomas  wrote:

I have a similar issue this year on my C&C 29-2: under sail, the spreader 
ti= on the leeward side moves fore and aft several inches.  My rigger took a 
l=ok.


The spreader goes over the spreader base at the mast, and is pinned to the 
b=se with a clevis pin.   The hole in the spreader has elongated, which 
allow= the spreader to work back and forth slightly on the base, which 
translates=to a wider range of motion at the tip of the spreader.  The 
motion occurs o=ly when that side is leeward.  When loaded on the windward 
side, there is n= motion.  In my case, the rigger (a very reputable guy) 
advised it is not d=ngerous.  But it is annoying.


This is a long term wear issue that I just noticed this year.  I think it 
ha= been doing it for a while, but this is the first time I sailed with jib 
on=y, so I was able to see it.  With the main up it is not obvious.


Would appreciate any ideas to repair the spreader to eliminate the 
elongatio= in the hole.


Tom



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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 Shrouds and Speaders

2013-08-10 Thread sam . c . salter
If my leeward spreader was wiggling around, I'd check the tension on my shrouds. ...and maybe get a second opinion from another rigger! ...or do the job myself. ‎  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Tom O'KeeffeSent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 8:34 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 Shrouds and SpeadersMakes sense. Thanks.-Original Message- From: Rich KnowlesSent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 11:54 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 Shrouds and SpeadersDrill holes through the spreader and base when they are properly aligned to a=commodate the next size up pin.Rich(mobile)On 2012-08-11, at 11:38, O'Keeffe Thomas  wrote:I have a similar issue this year on my C&C 29-2: under sail, the spreader ti= on the leeward side moves fore and aft several inches.  My rigger took a l=ok.The spreader goes over the spreader base at the mast, and is pinned to the b=se with a clevis pin.   The hole in the spreader has elongated, which allow= the spreader to work back and forth slightly on the base, which translates=to a wider range of motion at the tip of the spreader.  The motion occurs o=ly when that side is leeward.  When loaded on the windward side, there is n= motion.  In my case, the rigger (a very reputable guy) advised it is not d=ngerous.  But it is annoying.This is a long term wear issue that I just noticed this year.  I think it ha= been doing it for a while, but this is the first time I sailed with jib on=y, so I was able to see it.  With the main up it is not obvious.Would appreciate any ideas to repair the spreader to eliminate the elongatio= in the hole.Tom___This List is provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___This List is provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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