Re: Stus-List C & C 36 Front Hatch Plexiglass Replacement

[Joel Aronson]

I had to use an easy-out to get one screw out. One of the listers suggested
valve grinding compound. It worked on the other screw.

Joel Aronson


On Jul 3, 2013, at 12:51 AM, Brad Crawford  wrote:

Don,

Thanks for the heads up.  I was looking at that earlier tonight and was
going to ask about that.  I tried to back the screws out, of course with no
luck so far.  Perhaps a bigger screw driver may help, or like you said,
drill the old screws out, and hopefully be able to get new ones in?  We'll
see.  We'll get back to you later with a progress report.  Did you try any
penetrating oil of sorts and did it help?

Thanks,

Brad

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 2, 2013, at 9:02 PM, "Don Jonsson"  wrote:

I replaced mine on a 34 a few years back.  The major challenge was the set
screws that go through the round knobs on the top.  They had to be drilled
out and new holes put in.  If yours works the same way and if they come out
then the rest is straight forward, if not, well it was a challenge.  I just
got a new lens cut at one of the plastics places in town using the old one
as a template.



I had another issue which was more my fault.  I tried Sikaflex first
without the special primer which was about $60.  It leaked.  The second
time I used Dow Corning 795  which cost less than the Sikaflex, let alone
the primer, and it never leaked.



Don





*From:* Brad Crawford [mailto:bcrawf7...@comcast.net]

*Sent:* July-02-13 9:19 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Stus-List C & C 36 Front Hatch Plexiglass Replacement



Does anyone have any words of wisdom or advice for replacing a busted
plexiglass of  the front hatch on a ‘81 C&C 36?  Would it be a Atkins and
Hoyle hatch? I’ve been thinking of doing it myself but maybe it would be
best to send it off to someone with lots of experience such as Hatchmasters
or Select Plastics? Any thoughts would be appreciated.



Thanks,



Brad

C&C 36, Seattle



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Stus-List On way to Annapolis

[Joe Della Barba]

Weather is STILL in daily rain tropical mode :(
Joe Coquina

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Re: Stus-List On way to Annapolis

[Knowles Rich]

Just like here only cooler. Starting to rot!


Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.





On 2013-07-03, at 11:10 AM, Joe Della Barba  wrote:

Weather is STILL in daily rain tropical mode :(
Joe Coquina

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Stus-List Rudder Tube

[Alex Giannelia]

So, I crept under there one more time, and noticed the following:

The rudder tube does go up a ways and is almost equal to the cockpit sole so it 
looks to be nominally above the waterline.  
Then there is just enough space to install the quadrant then up through the 
cockpit sole.  
On the tube, there are 2 what appear to be grease nipples, so why 2?
So, now, I am wondering if I need another washer, between the quadrant and the 
tube, so the tube doesn't wear.

ALEX GIANNELIA

Phone (416) 203-9858
Fax   (416) 203-9843
Cell   (416) 529-0070

email: a...@airsensing.com
WEB: www.airsensing.com


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Re: Stus-List Rudder Tube

[Indigo]

My understanding at least for the 35mkiii is that the rudder post is suspended 
by the threaded "nut" that is on top of the cockpit sole. The delrin washer 
under that nut is what acts as the bearing and wears over time. The quadrant 
should be well clear of the top of the tube and not need a bearing under it. I 
have a delrin bearing on top of the rudder itself and between the rudder and 
hull and can only dummies that this is there in case wave action lifts the 
rudder

Jonathan
Indigo 35Iii Southport CT

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Jul 3, 2013, at 11:53, Alex Giannelia  wrote:

> So, I crept under there one more time, and noticed the following:
> 
> The rudder tube does go up a ways and is almost equal to the cockpit sole so 
> it looks to be nominally above the waterline.  
> Then there is just enough space to install the quadrant then up through the 
> cockpit sole.  
> On the tube, there are 2 what appear to be grease nipples, so why 2?
> So, now, I am wondering if I need another washer, between the quadrant and 
> the tube, so the tube doesn't wear.
> 
> ALEX GIANNELIA
> 
> Phone (416) 203-9858
> Fax   (416) 203-9843
> Cell   (416) 529-0070
> 
> email: a...@airsensing.com
> WEB: www.airsensing.com
> 
> 
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Stus-List Re-installing Rudder Post etc CC 35-II

[Marek Dziedzic]

Alex,

if you are planning to make it yourself, you can also consider a kit. This one 
may not apply directly, but, at least, you should be able to figure out what 
you need exactly. I know people who used this successfully

here is the link: 
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2791
 .

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Re: Stus-List Rudder Tube

[Michael Brown]

 
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 18:58:50 -0400
> From: Alex Giannelia 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List Re-installing Rudder Post etc CC 35-II
> Message-ID:
>   <1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010bd4a15...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net>
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> So,
> 
> I am at the stage where I want to re-install my rudder an am looking for a
> bit of advice.
> 
> The SS post goes up through an opening in the hull which is not
> continuoulsly joined to the  2nd opening in the cockpit sole, so I was
> wondering if greasing it will not only control friction, but also water
> ingression, as the entry point is slightly above the waterline which changes
> when under sail, where we sometimes bury the bottom of the transom.
> 
> Also, what appear to have been nylon washers both at the cockpit and the
> outside hull side are worn beyond, I want to replace with delrin (acetal).
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> ALEX GIANNELIA
> 
> CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
> ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
> Toronto Ontario
> 
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 19:14:05 -0400
> From: Alex Giannelia 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List More on Rudder replacement  35-II
> Message-ID:
>   <1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010bd4a15...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net>
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I did some reading and it turns out, I should need a Delrin or Nyon bushing
> on the hull side.  Do these need to be custom made?
> 
> ALEX GIANNELIA
> 
> CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
> ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
> Toronto Ontario
> 

Hi Alex,


  I did a similar project on Windburn two years ago.

The flat "plastic" pieces are thrust bearings. You have a choice
of materials but you should confirm that it does not absorb any
water. Some plastics do absorb small amounts.

As mentioned from another post UHMW is a fine choice. From Wikipedia:

"UHMWPE is odorless, tasteless, and nontoxic.[2] It is highly resistant to 
corrosive chemicals except oxidizing acids; has extremely low moisture 
absorption and a very low coefficient of friction; is self-lubricating; and is 
highly resistant to abrasion, in some forms being 15 times more resistant to 
abrasion than carbon steel. Its coefficient of friction is significantly lower 
than that of nylon and acetal, and is comparable to that of 
polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, Teflon), but UHMWPE has better abrasion 
resistance than PTFE."


I purchased a tube of UHMW then took it to a machine shop. They drilled
out the center to match the shaft diameter and the outside to match my
requirements. I had six pieces made in slightly different thicknesses
so I could reduce the vertical play in the shaft during reassembly.


I removed the top locking ring ( held by two grub screws - make sure to replace
them and use grub screws with the same tip type such as cone point ).
I also removed the top bearing and angle wedge so the locking ring and
top bearing could be sent out for stripping and chrome plating.
I have been using Mayfair Plating on Carlaw Ave, they know what they
are doing and have fair prices. The original plating had worn down
so the bronze and the thrust bearing were wearing out.

The removal was difficult. The four bolts came through at an angle,
then were bent to match the plane of the cockpit sole. Then tightened
so much as to bend the bolts, had the extra length cut off and the
area "finished" with some caulking that went rock hard. Could not
even see the nuts to start with.

When the rudder was out I borrowed a machinist's straight edge and
confirmed the shaft was perfectly straight, and used a micrometer
to check that there was no wear. Amazing after 30 year of racing.

I used light oil on a rag to clean out the rudder tube, then lightly
greased it and the shaft before reassembly. I researched a bit on
what to use as a grease and decided on Lubriplate 115. It is a
calcium based grease that is water resistant, the correct viscosity
and tackiness. You do want the grease to work its way down the
shaft slowly. When you grease the shaft through the nipples you
should see some new grease being forced out the top without having
to use too much pressure on the grease gun. Some "waterproof" greases
such as for use on truck fifth wheels are too tacky. The Lubriplate
is an old grease originally for car water pumps, claims to be
suitable for plain bearings, slides etc. So far has worked well
for me.


Mike Brown

C&C 30
Windburn

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Re: Stus-List Rudder Tube

[John]

Alex

This is good time to install a grease fitting into the tube so you can grease 
as necessary. Yes the grease facilitates ease of rudder control and prevents or 
retards water ingress. I use Lubriplate AA which is a water resistant grease 
that is one step more viscous (thicker)than that used in a Max Prop operation.

Bring your old bearings to a machine shop and have Teflon beatings made.

John
Arpeggio C&C 32
Norwalk Ct




Sent from my iPad

On Jul 3, 2013, at 10:52 AM, Michael Brown  wrote:

> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 18:58:50 -0400
>> From: Alex Giannelia 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Stus-List Re-installing Rudder Post etc CC 35-II
>> Message-ID:
>><1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010bd4a15...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net>
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> So,
>> 
>> I am at the stage where I want to re-install my rudder an am looking for a
>> bit of advice.
>> 
>> The SS post goes up through an opening in the hull which is not
>> continuoulsly joined to the  2nd opening in the cockpit sole, so I was
>> wondering if greasing it will not only control friction, but also water
>> ingression, as the entry point is slightly above the waterline which changes
>> when under sail, where we sometimes bury the bottom of the transom.
>> 
>> Also, what appear to have been nylon washers both at the cockpit and the
>> outside hull side are worn beyond, I want to replace with delrin (acetal).
>> 
>> Any suggestions?
>> 
>> ALEX GIANNELIA
>> 
>> CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
>> ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
>> Toronto Ontario
>> 
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 19:14:05 -0400
>> From: Alex Giannelia 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Stus-List More on Rudder replacement  35-II
>> Message-ID:
>><1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010bd4a15...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net>
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> I did some reading and it turns out, I should need a Delrin or Nyon bushing
>> on the hull side.  Do these need to be custom made?
>> 
>> ALEX GIANNELIA
>> 
>> CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
>> ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
>> Toronto Ontario
> 
> Hi Alex,
> 
> 
>  I did a similar project on Windburn two years ago.
> 
> The flat "plastic" pieces are thrust bearings. You have a choice
> of materials but you should confirm that it does not absorb any
> water. Some plastics do absorb small amounts.
> 
> As mentioned from another post UHMW is a fine choice. From Wikipedia:
> 
> "UHMWPE is odorless, tasteless, and nontoxic.[2] It is highly resistant to 
> corrosive chemicals except oxidizing acids; has extremely low moisture 
> absorption and a very low coefficient of friction; is self-lubricating; and 
> is highly resistant to abrasion, in some forms being 15 times more resistant 
> to abrasion than carbon steel. Its coefficient of friction is significantly 
> lower than that of nylon and acetal, and is comparable to that of 
> polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, Teflon), but UHMWPE has better abrasion 
> resistance than PTFE."
> 
> 
> I purchased a tube of UHMW then took it to a machine shop. They drilled
> out the center to match the shaft diameter and the outside to match my
> requirements. I had six pieces made in slightly different thicknesses
> so I could reduce the vertical play in the shaft during reassembly.
> 
> 
> I removed the top locking ring ( held by two grub screws - make sure to 
> replace
> them and use grub screws with the same tip type such as cone point ).
> I also removed the top bearing and angle wedge so the locking ring and
> top bearing could be sent out for stripping and chrome plating.
> I have been using Mayfair Plating on Carlaw Ave, they know what they
> are doing and have fair prices. The original plating had worn down
> so the bronze and the thrust bearing were wearing out.
> 
> The removal was difficult. The four bolts came through at an angle,
> then were bent to match the plane of the cockpit sole. Then tightened
> so much as to bend the bolts, had the extra length cut off and the
> area "finished" with some caulking that went rock hard. Could not
> even see the nuts to start with.
> 
> When the rudder was out I borrowed a machinist's straight edge and
> confirmed the shaft was perfectly straight, and used a micrometer
> to check that there was no wear. Amazing after 30 year of racing.
> 
> I used light oil on a rag to clean out the rudder tube, then lightly
> greased it and the shaft before reassembly. I researched a bit on
> what to use as a grease and decided on Lubriplate 115. It is a
> calcium based grease that is water resistant, the correct viscosity
> and tackiness. You do want the grease to work its way down the
> shaft slowly. When you gre

Re: Stus-List Rudder Tube

[Don Siddall]

Alex:

I made a bearing for the top from a thicker piece of delrin using the 
original bearing as a pattern. It has worked very well for many 
thousands of miles.


Originally my rudder tube had two bolts on opposite sides of the tube. I 
replaced one with a grease nipple to which I have permanently connected 
a grease gun. About every 24 hours of sailing I inject about four full 
pumps of waterproof grease into the tube. I like how this effects the 
helm - sensitive and easy to turn the wheel.


Don

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Re: Stus-List Music in cockpit

[Bob Moriarty]

Ted,
That is really cool and interesting. Thanks for posting the youtube and the
details.
I wonder if there's any sort of rock'n'roll or other music that barnacles
and slime find repulsive.
I say that mostly in jest, remembering the "magic ultrasound barnacle
repeller system" from years back.
Not trying to change the subject. I'm going to give your discovery a try.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Music in cockpit

[Sam Salter]

I'm thinking RAP or Barry Manilow!
One of those will work. They both work on me!
Sam
Liquorice C&C 26
Ghost Lake  Alberta

On 03/07/2013 8:39 PM, Bob Moriarty wrote:

Ted,
That is really cool and interesting. Thanks for posting the youtube 
and the details.
I wonder if there's any sort of rock'n'roll or other music that 
barnacles and slime find repulsive.
I say that mostly in jest, remembering the "magic ultrasound barnacle 
repeller system" from years back.

Not trying to change the subject. I'm going to give your discovery a try.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL




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