> Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 18:58:50 -0400 > From: Alex Giannelia <a...@airsensing.com> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Stus-List Re-installing Rudder Post etc CC 35-II > Message-ID: > <1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010bd4a15...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > So, > > I am at the stage where I want to re-install my rudder an am looking for a > bit of advice. > > The SS post goes up through an opening in the hull which is not > continuoulsly joined to the 2nd opening in the cockpit sole, so I was > wondering if greasing it will not only control friction, but also water > ingression, as the entry point is slightly above the waterline which changes > when under sail, where we sometimes bury the bottom of the transom. > > Also, what appear to have been nylon washers both at the cockpit and the > outside hull side are worn beyond, I want to replace with delrin (acetal). > > Any suggestions? > > ALEX GIANNELIA > > CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED > ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006 > Toronto Ontario > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130702/9a66b8d1/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 19:14:05 -0400 > From: Alex Giannelia <a...@airsensing.com> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Stus-List More on Rudder replacement 35-II > Message-ID: > <1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010bd4a15...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I did some reading and it turns out, I should need a Delrin or Nyon bushing > on the hull side. Do these need to be custom made? > > ALEX GIANNELIA > > CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED > ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006 > Toronto Ontario >
Hi Alex, I did a similar project on Windburn two years ago. The flat "plastic" pieces are thrust bearings. You have a choice of materials but you should confirm that it does not absorb any water. Some plastics do absorb small amounts. As mentioned from another post UHMW is a fine choice. From Wikipedia: "UHMWPE is odorless, tasteless, and nontoxic.[2] It is highly resistant to corrosive chemicals except oxidizing acids; has extremely low moisture absorption and a very low coefficient of friction; is self-lubricating; and is highly resistant to abrasion, in some forms being 15 times more resistant to abrasion than carbon steel. Its coefficient of friction is significantly lower than that of nylon and acetal, and is comparable to that of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, Teflon), but UHMWPE has better abrasion resistance than PTFE." I purchased a tube of UHMW then took it to a machine shop. They drilled out the center to match the shaft diameter and the outside to match my requirements. I had six pieces made in slightly different thicknesses so I could reduce the vertical play in the shaft during reassembly. I removed the top locking ring ( held by two grub screws - make sure to replace them and use grub screws with the same tip type such as cone point ). I also removed the top bearing and angle wedge so the locking ring and top bearing could be sent out for stripping and chrome plating. I have been using Mayfair Plating on Carlaw Ave, they know what they are doing and have fair prices. The original plating had worn down so the bronze and the thrust bearing were wearing out. The removal was difficult. The four bolts came through at an angle, then were bent to match the plane of the cockpit sole. Then tightened so much as to bend the bolts, had the extra length cut off and the area "finished" with some caulking that went rock hard. Could not even see the nuts to start with. When the rudder was out I borrowed a machinist's straight edge and confirmed the shaft was perfectly straight, and used a micrometer to check that there was no wear. Amazing after 30 year of racing. I used light oil on a rag to clean out the rudder tube, then lightly greased it and the shaft before reassembly. I researched a bit on what to use as a grease and decided on Lubriplate 115. It is a calcium based grease that is water resistant, the correct viscosity and tackiness. You do want the grease to work its way down the shaft slowly. When you grease the shaft through the nipples you should see some new grease being forced out the top without having to use too much pressure on the grease gun. Some "waterproof" greases such as for use on truck fifth wheels are too tacky. The Lubriplate is an old grease originally for car water pumps, claims to be suitable for plain bearings, slides etc. So far has worked well for me. Mike Brown C&C 30 Windburn _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
