Alex This is good time to install a grease fitting into the tube so you can grease as necessary. Yes the grease facilitates ease of rudder control and prevents or retards water ingress. I use Lubriplate AA which is a water resistant grease that is one step more viscous (thicker)than that used in a Max Prop operation.
Bring your old bearings to a machine shop and have Teflon beatings made. John Arpeggio C&C 32 Norwalk Ct Sent from my iPad On Jul 3, 2013, at 10:52 AM, Michael Brown <m...@tkg.ca> wrote: > >> Message: 3 >> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 18:58:50 -0400 >> From: Alex Giannelia <a...@airsensing.com> >> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Stus-List Re-installing Rudder Post etc CC 35-II >> Message-ID: >> <1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010bd4a15...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net> >> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >> >> So, >> >> I am at the stage where I want to re-install my rudder an am looking for a >> bit of advice. >> >> The SS post goes up through an opening in the hull which is not >> continuoulsly joined to the 2nd opening in the cockpit sole, so I was >> wondering if greasing it will not only control friction, but also water >> ingression, as the entry point is slightly above the waterline which changes >> when under sail, where we sometimes bury the bottom of the transom. >> >> Also, what appear to have been nylon washers both at the cockpit and the >> outside hull side are worn beyond, I want to replace with delrin (acetal). >> >> Any suggestions? >> >> ALEX GIANNELIA >> >> CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED >> ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006 >> Toronto Ontario >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130702/9a66b8d1/attachment-0001.html> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 4 >> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 19:14:05 -0400 >> From: Alex Giannelia <a...@airsensing.com> >> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Stus-List More on Rudder replacement 35-II >> Message-ID: >> <1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010bd4a15...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net> >> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >> >> I did some reading and it turns out, I should need a Delrin or Nyon bushing >> on the hull side. Do these need to be custom made? >> >> ALEX GIANNELIA >> >> CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED >> ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006 >> Toronto Ontario > > Hi Alex, > > > I did a similar project on Windburn two years ago. > > The flat "plastic" pieces are thrust bearings. You have a choice > of materials but you should confirm that it does not absorb any > water. Some plastics do absorb small amounts. > > As mentioned from another post UHMW is a fine choice. From Wikipedia: > > "UHMWPE is odorless, tasteless, and nontoxic.[2] It is highly resistant to > corrosive chemicals except oxidizing acids; has extremely low moisture > absorption and a very low coefficient of friction; is self-lubricating; and > is highly resistant to abrasion, in some forms being 15 times more resistant > to abrasion than carbon steel. Its coefficient of friction is significantly > lower than that of nylon and acetal, and is comparable to that of > polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, Teflon), but UHMWPE has better abrasion > resistance than PTFE." > > > I purchased a tube of UHMW then took it to a machine shop. They drilled > out the center to match the shaft diameter and the outside to match my > requirements. I had six pieces made in slightly different thicknesses > so I could reduce the vertical play in the shaft during reassembly. > > > I removed the top locking ring ( held by two grub screws - make sure to > replace > them and use grub screws with the same tip type such as cone point ). > I also removed the top bearing and angle wedge so the locking ring and > top bearing could be sent out for stripping and chrome plating. > I have been using Mayfair Plating on Carlaw Ave, they know what they > are doing and have fair prices. The original plating had worn down > so the bronze and the thrust bearing were wearing out. > > The removal was difficult. The four bolts came through at an angle, > then were bent to match the plane of the cockpit sole. Then tightened > so much as to bend the bolts, had the extra length cut off and the > area "finished" with some caulking that went rock hard. Could not > even see the nuts to start with. > > When the rudder was out I borrowed a machinist's straight edge and > confirmed the shaft was perfectly straight, and used a micrometer > to check that there was no wear. Amazing after 30 year of racing. > > I used light oil on a rag to clean out the rudder tube, then lightly > greased it and the shaft before reassembly. I researched a bit on > what to use as a grease and decided on Lubriplate 115. It is a > calcium based grease that is water resistant, the correct viscosity > and tackiness. You do want the grease to work its way down the > shaft slowly. When you grease the shaft through the nipples you > should see some new grease being forced out the top without having > to use too much pressure on the grease gun. Some "waterproof" greases > such as for use on truck fifth wheels are too tacky. The Lubriplate > is an old grease originally for car water pumps, claims to be > suitable for plain bearings, slides etc. So far has worked well > for me. > > > Mike Brown > > C&C 30 > Windburn > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
