Wrenches,

UL has done testing on various materials for use as array covers, and lists 
their results. While perhaps not too practical as a means of shutting down a 
working system, this can be one of firefighters’ only effective methods when a 
fire has occurred and has damaged modules until PV pros arrive to disable 
system (UL tests have also shown destroyed modules still can produce high 
voltage).

Regards,
Lloyd Hoffstatter
NABCEP PV Installer
NY-Sun instructor



From: RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf 
Of William Miller
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2015 1:06 PM
To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rooftop DC disconnects

Brian:

I agree 100%. Handling a tarp on a roof is impractical, ineffective and 
unreliable. Wind and slope are just two factors that increase danger and reduce 
reliability.

William


On Sep 24, 2015, at 9:12 AM, Brian Mehalic 
<br...@solarenergy.org<mailto:br...@solarenergy.org>> wrote:
I disagree about tarps. We've tested fully covered arrays (and small ones at 
that) and still had what would be considered lethal levels of current and 
voltage, even when using heavy, reflective tarps. And it can be very difficult 
to ensure they stay in place, plus it's impractical for larger arrays.

Brian

On Sep 24, 2015, at 6:31 AM, Jason Szumlanski 
<ja...@floridasolardesigngroup.com<mailto:ja...@floridasolardesigngroup.com>> 
wrote:
"​In this scenario, there is no safe way to replace either of the two 
Morningstar controllers."

The BEST rooftop disconnect remains... a big thick tarp. Not totally practical 
in an emergency situation, but it is pretty fail safe.

Unfortunately for emergency responders, that does not take care of the AC 
circuits in a microinverter or AC module system, but ideally the building main 
is shut down anyway, and the risk is the same as any other 240V 
equipment/appliance circuits.

​Jason Szumlanski



On Wed, Sep 23, 2015 at 4:26 PM, William Miller 
<will...@millersolar.com<mailto:will...@millersolar.com>> wrote:
Dear Fellow Wrenches

Below is a design conundrum that may resonate with some of you:

We are finalizing a design for an off-grid residential system.  The customer 
insist the PV should be on the roof and pre-installed a 1-1/4” PVC conduit from 
his roof to a crawl space, in anticipation of a solar install.  This created 
real problems, because we all know we can’t pull PV source or output circuits 
in (or now, on)  the envelopes of habitable buildings.

There was no practical way to replace the PVC.  We contrived a method to sleeve 
¾” liquid-tight through the 1-1/4” PVC to the crawl space, continuing on with 
EMT.  This is the largest metallic conduit we could fit.  The distance was 
greater than 10 feet so we couldn’t use EMT.  Due to the conduit size 
restriction, we upgraded to Morningstar 600 volt charge controllers, allowing 
us to reduce conductor size.

(As a sidebar, although the Morningstar is listed as a 600 volt charge 
controller, we have found no circumstance were we could take advantage of that 
high a voltage.  With the currently available high wattage modules, by the time 
we added enough in series to get to 600 volts, we were well beyond the wattage 
capabilities of the controller.  For sake of design considerations, I suggest 
one regard these units as ~300 volt charge controllers.)

We now have plans for 300 volt PV feeders running down an interior wall and 
under the house, with no roof-top disconnecting means.  It is my understanding 
none are required.  I am not comfortable with this.
​​
In this scenario, there is no safe way to replace either of the two Morningstar 
controllers. Should someone drill through or damage the EMT in the wall or 
under the floor, there would be no way to turn off the feeder.

I don’t like putting HU361RBs on a roof.  They must remain vertical and so they 
stick up too high and are hard to provide mounting for.  Sola-deck units are 
another option, but they require integrating with shingles, not practical on 
this job or many others.  I finally settled on a DC-Sunvolt PV-X16A-4X-RG 
disconnect as a possible solution.  At $216 it is not out of range.  The unit 
will provide means to turn off the feeders for service.  I will report back on 
my impressions of the unit.

To distill this scenario, I don’t believe the code requires a disconnect, but I 
feel morally obligated to install one.  I’d be interested in verification of 
the code interpretation and others response to similar situations.

I found no other options for rooftop disconnecting means that would be small, 
reasonably priced and not present a high profile.  If there are products I 
don’t know about, I would be most grateful to receive your input.

While researching the hardware I stumbled upon this article, linked below.  It 
seems to present a real dilemma, but I am not convinced.  Please remain 
skeptical as you read.  It appears all of the links direct you to the same 
source.

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/greatest-debacle-solar-pv-australias-rooftop-dc-isolator-lucas-sadler

Thanks again to all of you for helpful advice and expertise.  I learned about 
Sunvolt here, just one of many great suggestions.

Sincerely,

William Miller


[Gradient Cap_mini]
Lic 773985
millersolar.com<http://www.millersolar.com/>
805-438-5600<tel:805-438-5600>

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