You folks are like a significant other who makes me run up credit card debt, write bad checks, and stay up way too late on school nights. I love all of you.
I took a look at the Rene Herse crankset offerings on the Compass Bicycle site and fell head over heels. Twice as expensive as the IRD, but utterly no doubt about it. Ted also has me thinking. I never ride top end (say 48T front/12T rear) any more. A 46/30T combo might make more sense. Now Ron is correct. Whatever I end up with, in terms of the front and rear end, I need to consider chain line and chain stay clearance. I have more homework to do. Dear Lord. If I had known I was going to live this long and ride these bikes, I would have taken better care of myself. Thank you, Tom On Sunday, December 1, 2013 6:13:55 PM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote: > > I got a great used TA5 with 47/42 halfsteps and 26 bailout on ebay for $130 > > <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aaP3030001.jpg> > > > On Sunday, December 1, 2013 7:52:21 PM UTC-6, Tom Virgil wrote: >> >> Thanks, Scott. I found the Andel >> <http://www.andel.com.tw/products/products_show.php?language=_eng&pid=3&cid=18> >> site. >> >> I also found Origin8 and TA cranksets that have the look. The TA >> Cyclotourist Pro 5 VIS >> >> >> <http://www.renehersestore.com/catalog/TA%20172.5%20arm%20and%20bb%20combo.JPG> >> >> but at around $440 for just the arms and spider, it comes pretty dearly. >> >> The IRD can be had for around $170 >> here<http://smartbikeparts.com/cart.php?action=add&itm_id=SBP28693&continue=search_details.php%3Fitm%3DSBP28693+6195073090> >> which >> is competitive with the Sugino Alpina. The IRD has a better q-factor (140 >> mm versus 159 mm) but I am not very sophisticated about what q-factor means >> to me or how it affects me. The immortal Sheldon Brown gives a plausible >> case for q-factor, or tread: >> >> The tread, or "Q factor" of a crankset is the horizontal width of the >> cranks, measured from where the pedals screw in. The wider the tread, the >> farther apart your feet will be. It is generally considered a good idea to >> keep the tread fairly narrow. There are three main reasons for this: >> >> >> - The hip joint is optimized for walking, and in normal walking the >> footsteps are pretty much in line, with little or no "tread." >> - For standing pedaling, the farther out the pedals are from the >> centerline, the harder you have to pull on the handlebar to >> counterbalance >> the tendency of the pedaling force to tip the bike sideways. >> - The wider the tread, the higher the bottom bracket needs to be >> to prevent clipping a pedal while pedaling through a turn. >> >> 19 mm difference is between 5/8 and 3/4 of an inch. I have never really >> had cranksets with different q factors side by side, but I have clipped a >> pedal and flipped a bike. So I am somewhat programmed to agree smaller >> might be better. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Tom >> >> >> >> >> >> On Sunday, December 1, 2013 4:45:24 PM UTC-8, Scott G. wrote: >>> >>> They are Andel cranks. >>> >>> >>> http://www.andel.com.tw/products/products_show.php?language=_eng&pid=40&cid=18# >>> >>> >>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
