Side pull SH with mountain brake levers, thumb shifters, Ergon grips, and 
Bullmoose bar was by far the easiest build ever. That combo of controls takes 
away all the things that I consider time-consuming (canti brakes and their 
hangers, drop bar positioning, rubber grip slide-ons, bar wrapping around brake 
levers.) I don't dislike any of those labor-intensive jobs, just mentioning a 
real fast assembly combo.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 21, 2012, at 9:27 AM, Philip Williamson <philip.william...@gmail.com> 
wrote:

> It's not hard to build up a bike with the fork attached. Derailleurs (if 
> you're into such things) are the biggest hassle. Brakes, if they're cantis.
>  
> The issue will be making sure the pieces (stem to bars, bars to fork, 
> seatpost to frame, rear axle spacing) all fit together. If you buy the build 
> kit from Rivendell, you won't have that problem. If you're picking up pieces 
> at random, then you will need to make sure you get a 27.2 seatpost, and a 1" 
> threaded stem. 
> 
> Very very easy to swap handlebars on the other one. Wrapping the tape would 
> be the hardest part, unless you needed longer cables for the m-bars. 
> You will be able to sell the bars, saddle and tires here easily, or possibly 
> trade straight across for what you want.
> 
> "Do it..."
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com
> 
> 
> On Friday, July 20, 2012 12:57:43 PM UTC-7, Ozonation wrote:
> Ah... that is sweet. I'm handy with tools - and I used to maintain my own 
> cheap road bike when I was a kid - but it's been a long time, and I'm not 
> particularly up on bicycle mechanics. How difficult would it be to assemble 
> the bike by myself, or conversely, to alter the used Sam that I started this 
> original thread on (e.g., new handle, etc.)? 
> 
> On Friday, July 20, 2012 11:34:42 AM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:
> Not so used beautiful new blue one on the bay right now. Man that is a nice 
> deal for spiffy paint and all.
>  
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Sam-Hillborne-frameset-56cm-Brand-new-Blue-/200794835350?pt=Road_Bikes&hash=item2ec04e0996#ht_500wt_1413
>  
> 
> On Fri, Jul 20, 2012 at 12:48 AM, Ozonation wrote:
> Hmmm... good suggestions for checking out the bike. Ah, I'm kind of torn. I 
> can get a new one from a dealer spec'd exactly the way I want it - mustache 
> bar, pedals, kevlar tires, dark green Brooks saddle, etc. but it would cost 
> about $900 more than this used one. Sadly, I'm not sure about color - how 
> vain! I prefer green overall, but the orange is very bold. One advantage of 
> going to the dealer is the fitting: very helpful. I frankly don't know enough 
> about modern bikes to know exactly what I should be looking for in a used 
> bicycle. But it's $900 difference... ouch... 
> 
> On Wednesday, July 18, 2012 8:34:08 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
> Take a look at the crankset teeth (from both sides) and the cassette cogs for 
> wear. Drivetrains can be expensive to replace.
> Check that the derailer is not bent.
> Make sure seatpost and stem are movable in their respective tubes and not 
> frozen. Though I doubt they would be on a year old bike.
> Ask if it has been crashed before, and get assurance that the frame is in 
> alignment.
>  
> 
> On Tuesday, July 17, 2012 2:54:57 AM UTC-4, Ozonation wrote:
> Hi... new here, but was advised over in Bike Forums to check this user group! 
> I've been seriously considering a Rivendell, and have settled in a Sam 
> Hillborne. I just came across a 2011 SH model going for about $1600 to $1700 
> - supposedly it has low mileage. Does this price sound reasonable? Too good 
> to be true? Even better, the seller is not too far away. If I manage to check 
> it out, any key things I should be looking for on a used Rivendell bike to 
> see if its in good shape as claimed? Thanks a lot. 
> --
> 
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