Hi Ted. The first time it jammed it was the already stretched out chain I put back on without checking it. I didn't think that chain was old enough to worry but I guess it was. Then I replaced it with another 10 sp chain, a SRAM from the LBS. So I don't think it was a narrower chain, unless there are variances in 10 sp chains. I didn't know that RH had different types of chainrings until I was looking at whether to replace these. I see now they have the cranks and chainrings for 9-12 speed, and cranks for 5-10 speed. I'm fairly certain that when the builder got my crank, in 2015, that the 9-12 speed stuff wasn't available yet. I see also that all of their outer chainrings now have their "downshift thechnology."
And also, when looking at the current chainring, I wouldn't look at it and immediately say it was worn out. And in fact, when comparing that chainring with the ones on any of my other three Rivs, I would say it is in the best shape. Yikes! So with Ultegra brifters, a 105 RD and the new 105 FD, is there some other reason that this problem could have occurred? I'm fine replacing the chainrings but now worried the problem could persist. Tim Kirch On Wednesday, May 27, 2026 at 8:22:40 PM UTC-5 Ted Durant wrote: > On Tuesday, May 26, 2026 at 5:24:12 PM UTC-5 Tim wrote: > > I think you just nailed it Garth. I realize now that the chain that came > off was noticeably "stretched" when laid side by side with the new one. I > just checked them again and the old one gains 1.5 links. I noticed it at > the time but didn't make the connection of how badly the chain rings > might/must be correspondingly worn. > > > So, I'll ask the obvious question ... did you replace the chain with a > narrower one? > > If you wore the chain that much, then you also wore the chain rings. Bite > the bullet and buy new chainrings, but I doubt that would solve the chain > jamming problem, because narrowing of the teeth from wear wouldn't also > narrow the sections of the rings where the chain would jam. > > RH chainrings are countersunk on one side, so you may have difficulty > mounting them reversed. But I wouldn't expect that to solve the problem, > anyway. RH sells two different types of chainrings, one of them for > narrower chains, and you definitely can't reverse them because of the pins > and ramps. Even the standard chainrings wouldn't really work, as they have > a pin on the outside to prevent the chain jamming in the crank arm, and > their teeth are shaped (though your rings might be the earlier ones, > without shaping, and with the amount of wear you might have, probably any > shaping gone at this point). > > I haven't had any trouble with jamming chains up to 10sp on RH cranks with > their original chainrings. > > You should be able to see significant chainring wear in the shape of the > teeth, especially if you have a newer chainring to use for comparison. > Also, with the chain on the big ring, pull on the chain at the forward (3 > o'clock) position on the chainring and see how far you can pull the chain > from where it is seated on the ring. A fresh chain on a fresh ring won't > allow much movement. > > Ted Durant > Milwaukee, WI USA > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d0e174f4-349c-4f6c-80f5-9662fb224bc1n%40googlegroups.com.
