I agree wholeheartedly with William here: get your saddle back enough for hand, wrist, arm and shoulder comfort; at least, that is the first step. This rule applies no matter what bar you use.
Peter Jon White (qv) also has a good article on fitting. Different strokes, of course, but a well set up bike will let even a stiff 55 year old ride for 8-10 miles in the hooks of drop bars set 2" below saddle. On Thu, Jul 15, 2010 at 4:06 PM, William <tapebu...@gmail.com> wrote: > My opinion might not be worth much since I always go for drop bars > first, but here goes. > > If you use drop bars and find you are always on the tops, most likely > your fit setup is wrong. You should be able to comfortably ride on > the hoods, easily get to the drops for speed and power, and sometimes > visit the tops on a seated climb or to enjoy the view. The counter- > intuitive part is when somebody says "I'm reaching too far, I'll slide > my seat forward to fix that". That always makes it worse. Try > sliding it back, and/or tilting it up. Sheldon Brown has an article > describing that better than I would ever hope to. If you've done that > and your mind is made up, give new bars a try. > > I historically have hated straight bars, flat bars, mountain bars, and > yet the Rivendell bullmoose bars are fantastic. I emphatically > encourage you to try them. The Paul thumbies are great, also. You > might need to change out cables and housing, but perhaps not. You'll > need new brakelevers and definitely cables and housing for your > brakes. Leave the bars wide and you may find that you use 4 or 5 > different hand positions. > > Best of luck. > > On Jul 15, 2:47 pm, d2mini <d2creat...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Hi, sometimes excessive google searching gives me a headache. :P > > > > I currently have noodle bars on my homer commuter, 42cm width. My > > commute is about 12.5 miles each way and sometimes they can get a bit > > uncomfortable. I spend all my time on the tops. > > > > I also have a specialized mountain bike that I hit the trails with > > during lunch. The trails are pretty insane, all tree roots and stuff. > > We'll do a good mix of the trails and road, usually about 12 miles > > total. > > > > Between the two bikes, the flat bars of the mtn bike are drastically > > more comfortable for me. I think it's two things... the hand/wrist > > position and the wide hand position, wider than my shoulders. They > > have a rise and a backward sweep, typical of pretty much every > > production mtn bike these days. So I'm thinking of fitting that style > > bar to my homer and wondering if you guys have any advice on making > > the switch as painless as possible, in terms of what parts to use, > > what needs to be swapped out, etc. I do really like my bar-end > > shifters so if I could use those with thumbies or something that would > > be cool. I would also like to fit a pair of retro looking ergo grips, > > which i assume only come in mtn bike bar diameters? > > > > All advice appreciated. > > Thanks! > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com<rbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com> > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
