Jay

If you want the narrowest Q in a modern crank, suggest you look at the Rene 
Herse double.   They quote a 142mm Q which is probably for the 107mm SKF BB 
and 43.5mm chain line.   It's expensive, but probably worth it.   Also, 
their 'downshift technology' seems to be useful, at least from their write 
ups

I'm using used Sugino AT cranks & 1st generation Dura Ace cranks to get 
narrow triple Q, but the RH may have worth the extra $$ to avoid the 
experimental development I had to do

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Tuesday, August 12, 2025 at 8:17:33 PM UTC-4 Jay wrote:

> I have a general understanding about topics above (scanned Sheldon Brown's 
> site) but would appreciate some guidance for a future upgrade/replacement.
>
> Currently on my Roadini I have DT friction shifters, GRX 2x crankset, GRX 
> FD, 105 RD.  11sp
>
> There are a few things I'm looking to change:
> - shorter crank arms (probably 165mm)
> - silver over black (as much as possible)
> - maybe a narrower Q-factor of the crank, which may improve chainline (I 
> may be mistaken)
>
> I believe the GRX crank is a little wider than a traditional road double, 
> but it's a rather small difference and may be something I should ignore. 
>  Why I mention: for my bike fit, narrower is better, but what I'm more 
> curious about is whether I can improve my chainline when in certain gears. 
>  I know that when I'm in the larger chainring, I can only be in the 4 
> smallest sprockets without rub.  If I shift to the 5th or 6th sprocket, 
> chain rubs inside of FD cage, if I trim it to move inside, it shifts down 
> to smallest sprocket.  Whereas when I'm in the small chainring, I can use 
> 8-9 sprockets before any rub (and easy to trim to avoid noise/rub, without 
> going into the big chainring.  I realize this may not be about chainline, 
> so please help me dial in my set-up so I can be in the large chainring and 
> have more sprockets to use without rub (e.g., if a limit screw can move the 
> FD inboard a couple mm, that may do it, but since the shop built this up I 
> have not touched it, and it has always been like this).
>
> Regarding part swap, I can ditch the hollowtech BB and put in the 
> square-taper that came with the bike, and then add some nice cranks in a 
> silver colour, or keep the hollowtech BB and find a crank in silver, with 
> 165mm arms, that works with the frame/set-up.  I'm a bit lost here, but 
> doing research.
>
> Thanks
>

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