Man, you all jinxed me. I’ve not experienced post slippage on either of my two Riv’s. Or so I thought. All the talk of greasing binder bolts caused me to double check. On my Clem the post had actually slipped incrementally over time. It was about 2cm low. The bolt was greased but I made sure it was more thorough on reassembly. My Gus was similarly greased but I cleaned / regreased anyway. Snugged it up nicely with a “T” handle wrench & went for a beautiful 12 mile singletrack ride. It was so good and so beautiful I decided to do a second lap. I hit a bump (one of many) and you’d have thought I had a dropper post! I always carry a multi tool - but not today. I took a shortcut back to car & called it a day.So.., what is the prevailing opinion on proper torque for these things? Mine was tight enough that cranking it any more would take some effort. I do not want to break a bolt as has happened to others here. Thanks in advance for your valued input. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 4, 2024, at 7:14 PM, Bill Lindsay <tapebu...@gmail.com> wrote:
Just to close the loop, when I said in my Original Post that I disassembled 100% of the stuff that was assembled, the purpose of that step was to grease everything that needs grease, including the seat post bolt. The most important place for grease is between the head of the bolt and the lug itself. On the threads is nice also. Grease up that bolt, so you can easily snug it up.
Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, CA On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 7:41:42 AM UTC-7 mvie...@gmail.com wrote:
>> busted << Hi Dan - no, I did not grease the binder bolt when I built up the bike. Rivendell's instructions even called that out - grease the binder bolt.
I'll do that today and give it a go. (i'll probably try to replace the bolt, as i probably went beyond the elastic stretch of the bolt....)
I joking said to my wife that I'm not used to new bikes, so I thought maybe everything was too clean.
Also - here at work - when I've dealt with fasteners we don't grease them. The allowed finishing / plating probably has some lubricating properties in a more controlled fashion.
Thanks for the input / feedback / reminder / dope slap! Happy Trails
On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 6:50:23 AM UTC-4 Dan wrote:
Mark,
Have you checked that the seatpost binder bolt is greased? On my new Appaloosa, it wasn’t. I was having slipping issues until one day I tried to tighten it too hard and the bolt snapped. A new bolt, well-greased, and I never had a problem again. Didn’t need to tighten much either! All this with the stock kalloy seatpost.
hi Bill I see you're using a NITTO S83 seatpost.
Any issues with the post slipping? Or do you 'feel' you're cranking on the seat binder bolt much more than the Rivendell recommended 10N-m ?
I'm asking as my stock-build Kalloy post slips. I don't know the amount of torque I'm applying to the seat binder bolt, but I'm certain I'm apply much more than the 10N-m. I've added a bit of carbon paste to to the seattube. Still slipped a bit.
I've gone a head and ordered a NITTO S65. In the past I've had something very similar to the stock-build (single clamp) Kalloy before and I'm not a fan of of how the seat-rail clamp mates up with the top of the post.
I need to post some updates to my thread. I did an 80 miler to Detroit yesterday, and a shorter dirt road ride today.
Thanks.
Mark
On Sunday, September 1, 2024 at 3:15:57 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
I had a few self-imposed procedural responsibilities in my stable that delayed my first ride on my 7of9with10on5 RoadUno. I had planned on doing my September Diablo Summit, but stayed up a little late last night and slept in a little long this morning. So instead I did my very standard Grizzly Peak route. Executive summary: 23 miles, 2500 feet of climbing, splendid bike. Zero tweaks needed or planned. Perfect weather.
tl/dr
Even though the bike has my 7of9with10on5 drivetrain, I decided to use it as its core design intended, as a two-speed. I left the chain on the 18 cog in back and didn't touch my seat tube mounted Rear shifter. On the 23 mile ride I shifted exactly twice. I started in "low" (26x18) and road out to the of Grizzly Peak. One roadie passed me on the climb. He was probably 30 pounds lighter than me and he was on a ~$10k Parlee. He passed me, but he had to work to do it. At the top of Grizzly I stopped to take a photo:
I left it in "low" as I coasted down the steep descent to Fish Ranch Road (max speed 32.2mph). Then I finished the second climb to the end of Grizzly Peak. When I turned right onto Skyline/Old Tunnel, I shifted into "high" (38x18) and descended into Berkeley. I stopped at Domingo Peet's and waited in the long line at Fournee Bakery. There were lots of students out along the high-side of the UC Berkeley campus. I think it's rush weekend for the greek organizations. I continued to North Berkeley and shifted back into "low" to climb up Arlington Ave to home.
The bike was a delight. It's definitely an upright road bike, and it's exceedingly easy to ride. I rode gloveless and the texture of my Vans grips and the roughness of shellacked Newbaums on the forward curves of the stock Choco bars make me think I'll probably run thin gloves In the future. My 700x35 Gravel Kings were kind of skinny for the lousy pavement on the Old Tunnel Road descent. Maybe I'll swap on the 700x43s that are on the stock wheels, or maybe I'll just swap over to the stock wheels wholesale.
There are some loud complainers lamenting what the RoadUno became, because I think they wanted something more like a single speed Hunqapillar. My enthusiasm for this bike was based on the idea that there's never been a bike quite like this, and I was eager to just let it be what it is and enjoy it for that. I'm definitely all-in on that idea now. With its long wheelbase and comparatively slack head angle it is indeed very smooth and stable as a road bike. With a nice long front center, there's not even a threat of TCO. I think this is going to make a really good S24O and touring bike.
Also of note, it was new shoes day. I haven't been riding flats much, and so I don't have a proper set of Adidas Sambas or the equivalent. My wife didn't like the colors that Zappos had for Sambas, so we substituted Puma Palermos. I liked them very much for the first ride out. Pics prove that:
I'm super pleased with my new build and look forward to establishing its place in my stable.
Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, CA
On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 5:31:59 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
An old derailleur has a lot of things going for it. Just note that the drive side chainstay is totally unprotected. That's why I wrapped it in Newbaums. A purpose built tensioner tends to have a stronger spring, and a clutch RD would also have slap-preventing features. It's a road bike, and that's why I've chosen a rear derailleur and good chainstay slap protection.
BL in EC
On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 3:31:54 PM UTC-7 Nick A. wrote:
In an attempt to bring this back to the original build talk-
Mr. Lindsay, I'm loving your build and hope it serves you well. Brilliant move on the seatpost mounted RD shifter.
In light of a few posts mentioning chain tensioners, I'd like to add to the group saying "use an old derailleur". I used a Shimano RX-100. To hold it in place, I cut an old spoke down and it's been working great.
Nick, falls church va
On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:23:10 PM UTC-4 Edwin W wrote:
Exactly! The years long mystery has been solved....
On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 11:12:18 AM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
That's only the case if one deliberately misrepresents the size of bicycles in the context of sloping top tubes. Are you speculating that Patrick Moore was teasingly threatening to broadcast to the world "Grant insists that I ride a bike 6cm smaller than what I asked for!"? If Patrick Moore did that, it would be a deliberate misrepresentation. I guess if somebody threatened Grant "I'm going to deliberately misrepresent your bicycle designs to the public" then it would be perfectly natural for Grant to respond "Don't you dare".
Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, CA
On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 7:56:06 AM UTC-7 Edwin W wrote:
A (ish) That while Grant was proselytizing that everyone has been undersized and should be on bigger sizes, for this guy who actually has embraced that big frame idea and small bit of seat post showing for a long time Grant is actually going to be DOWN sizing him to a 54.
Edwin
On Sunday, August 25, 2024 at 10:42:50 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
What was it that Patrick Moore teasingly threatened to broadcast that Grant did not want broadcast?
A. That Grant would design a 54cm frame for an adult human that thinks they need a 60cm frame? B. That Grant would allow "road" tubing to be used in an all-rounder clone? C. That Grant would charge for a custom what was actually just an All-Rounder and not a new design? D. Some other thing?
Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, CA
On Sunday, August 25, 2024 at 7:09:46 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
You've told that story a hundred times, and I still don't comprehend what the "this" is that you were threatening to broadcast but that Grant did not want you to broadcast.
Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, CA
On Sunday, August 25, 2024 at 1:50:28 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
Lol. When I ordered my first road custom in late 1994 I asked Grant to build me a road bike like my '92 XO-1 but "better." (He said, "Oh, it'll be better.")
He used the AR as a basic template tho' with road tubing and lugs, so it was 54 cm c-c (again, I'm 60 c-c for a level tt fistful road bike). I told him teasingly that I was going to broadcast this -- even then he was known for proselytizing about big frames -- and he said, "Don't you dare." Their gentle suggestion... "Do not EVEN try to get Grant to do this."
On Friday, August 23, 2024 at 8:02:12 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
Will asked for a curated photo-shoot this morning. Of course I was happy to oblige. Will indicated it was Grant who was concerned that others would demand that Riv replicate the Lindsay treatment, which is why Will put in the language that Riv can't replicate my build.
BL in EC
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