I replace the front brakes on my Hillborne with the 720s a while back in an
attempt to eliminate loud squealing I was getting with Tekro Oryxes.  I got
the squeal squelched but I find the braking power somewhat less than the
Oryx, which doesn't make sense, as everything I've heard gives wide profile,
high straddle wire cantis more advantage over the narrower ones.  It's not a
huge difference, but it definitely resulted in somewhat less stopping
power.  I am so happy to be rid of the squeal/ honking and so weary from
swapping pads that I dare not mess with it any further.
I personally like the look of the Oryx brakes much much better.
Clyde Canter
On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 11:49 PM, Philip Williamson <
philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks for these suggestions - I have V-brakes on my Bontrager with
> drops, and I love them. If I can't adjust the Tektros to be
> significantly better than the stock brakes, I'll just buy new pads for
> them and put them back on.
>
> The nice part of tracking the 'tinking' sound to the brakes was that
> now my saddle rails, seatpost and cranks are all greased and tight.
>
> I will try lowering the yoke on the front, and I'll toe the brakes
> more dramatically. I feel bad now for watching a CX race and wondering
> "what's wrong with these people's brakes/mechanics?" because 65% of
> the them would come diving into a turn with their forks going
> "gackgackgackgackgack." Now that's me.
>
>  Philip
> 97128
>
>
> MikeC wrote:
> > I have the same issue with my Hillborne. I assume they use the same
> > studs as the QB. The problem is more radial slop than length-wise slop
> > as was previously mentioned. I had terrible brake shudder, because
> > when the brakes hit the rim, the cantis would rotate enough on the
> > stud to remove the little bit of toe-in that they had when not
> > engaged. I ended up re-postioning the pads with a lot of toe-in and
> > that solved the problem. Other than that issue, which I'm not sure is
> > due to the under sized stud or oversized brake bushing, I love the
> > CR720s.
> >
> > On Jun 9, 10:06 am, Horace <max...@sdf.lonestar.org> wrote:-
> > > On Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 10:38 PM, Philip Williamson
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > <philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > I just changed out the stock Quickbeam brakes for Tektro CR720s, a
> > > > presumable upgrade.
> > >
> > > > However, the brakes have fore-aft play on the canti bosses, and make
> a
> > > > 'tank'ing noise when plucked. The bike makes the exact same noise
> when
> > > > I jink to the left.
> > >
> > > > So the bosses seem a shade too long for the brakes, both front and
> > > > rear
> > >
> > > > Has anyone else noticed this with the CR720?
> > > > Should I add a thin washer under the nut? Under the brake?
> > > > Is this the reason I get brake chatter on the front, or is that the
> > > > pads still being brand new?
> > > > Would moving the spring-end to the tighter hole keep the brakes from
> > > > rattling as much?
> > >
> > > > Also, regarding braking power, they seem the same as the old brakes.
> > > > They're high profile, so I've got a high cable yoke. It can't get
> much
> > > > higher. I want a stronger front brake with a higher yoke, since I
> > > > can't lower the stock low-profile brake's yoke any further, due to
> the
> > > > M12's mounting rod.
> > >
> > > Have you considered V-brakes? I tried the CR720 on my Quickbeam for a
> > > couple of years too, but recently switched to Avid Single Digit
> > > V-brakes (requires different levers or a Travel Agent). They do have a
> > > lot of stopping power.
> > >
> > > Horace.- Hide quoted text -
> > >
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
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