Phillip, I re-read this thread and noted that we did not clearly respond to your question about straddle yoke.
Raising the yoke (or using a wider yoke) will increase mechanical advantage, making the lever feel more "squishy" while applying more braking power to the rim. I found that the Tektro CR720s required a much higher yoke than other lower-profile cantis. I specifically switched to the CR720s so that the front yoke would be above my rack which was mounted through the fork crown. Because I have a small frame, I don't have much room in the rear to move the yoke higher. A WIDER yoke will solve that problem, such as the one made by Problem Solvers. If the front, you probably do not want a wider yoke. Better to use a narrow yoke and simply raise it as high as you need. There is generally more room for that in the front than in the rear. If you were to use a wider yoke in front, yes, you'd get more mechanical advantage without raising the yoke. However, you might even have to lower the wider yoke a bit, thus causing it to hit your rack. On my bike, I will use a narrow yoke up front and wide yoke in the rear. Problem solved. On Jun 11, 6:29 am, Angus <angusle...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > I like that idea Mike! > > The tape is soft and may not last, but it's worth a shot. > > Angus > > On Jun 10, 6:54 pm, MikeC <mecinib...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > > > > I have been trying to come up with a way to minimize the radial slop > > between the studs and canti pivots and just thought of trying to wind > > the stud with Teflon tape. This would take up the space without > > increasing friction. Has anyone tried this? > > > Mike > > > On Jun 9, 11:49 pm, Philip Williamson <philip.william...@gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > Thanks for these suggestions - I have V-brakes on my Bontrager with > > > drops, and I love them. If I can't adjust the Tektros to be > > > significantly better than the stock brakes, I'll just buy new pads for > > > them and put them back on. > > > > The nice part of tracking the 'tinking' sound to the brakes was that > > > now my saddle rails, seatpost and cranks are all greased and tight. > > > > I will try lowering the yoke on the front, and I'll toe the brakes > > > more dramatically. I feel bad now for watching a CX race and wondering > > > "what's wrong with these people's brakes/mechanics?" because 65% of > > > the them would come diving into a turn with their forks going > > > "gackgackgackgackgack." Now that's me. > > > > Philip > > > 97128 > > > > MikeC wrote: > > > > I have the same issue with my Hillborne. I assume they use the same > > > > studs as the QB. The problem is more radial slop than length-wise slop > > > > as was previously mentioned. I had terrible brake shudder, because > > > > when the brakes hit the rim, the cantis would rotate enough on the > > > > stud to remove the little bit of toe-in that they had when not > > > > engaged. I ended up re-postioning the pads with a lot of toe-in and > > > > that solved the problem. Other than that issue, which I'm not sure is > > > > due to the under sized stud or oversized brake bushing, I love the > > > > CR720s. > > > > > On Jun 9, 10:06 am, Horace <max...@sdf.lonestar.org> wrote:- > > > > > On Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 10:38 PM, Philip Williamson > > > > > > <philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > I just changed out the stock Quickbeam brakes for Tektro CR720s, a > > > > > > presumable upgrade. > > > > > > > However, the brakes have fore-aft play on the canti bosses, and > > > > > > make a > > > > > > 'tank'ing noise when plucked. The bike makes the exact same noise > > > > > > when > > > > > > I jink to the left. > > > > > > > So the bosses seem a shade too long for the brakes, both front and > > > > > > rear > > > > > > > Has anyone else noticed this with the CR720? > > > > > > Should I add a thin washer under the nut? Under the brake? > > > > > > Is this the reason I get brake chatter on the front, or is that the > > > > > > pads still being brand new? > > > > > > Would moving the spring-end to the tighter hole keep the brakes from > > > > > > rattling as much? > > > > > > > Also, regarding braking power, they seem the same as the old brakes. > > > > > > They're high profile, so I've got a high cable yoke. It can't get > > > > > > much > > > > > > higher. I want a stronger front brake with a higher yoke, since I > > > > > > can't lower the stock low-profile brake's yoke any further, due to > > > > > > the > > > > > > M12's mounting rod. > > > > > > Have you considered V-brakes? I tried the CR720 on my Quickbeam for a > > > > > couple of years too, but recently switched to Avid Single Digit > > > > > V-brakes (requires different levers or a Travel Agent). They do have a > > > > > lot of stopping power. > > > > > > Horace.- Hide quoted text - > > > > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
