Philip,

I don't have CR720s, but I do have several high profile cantilevers
that have for-aft play on the studs.  This hasn't been a problem for
me.  I suppose you could add a shim to reduce this clearance to see if
it helps.

The radial play, clearance between the outside diameter of the stud
and the inside diameter of the bushing, allows the brake/pad to change
angle relative to the rim.  This has been a problem.  Assuming the
stud is not worn/undersized the solution for me was to replace the
brakes.

Raising the yoke will not reduce the lever effort.  Lowering it will.
I keep the yokes on my bikes high because I prefer a firm feel at the
lever.

Angus

On Jun 9, 12:38 am, Philip Williamson <philip.william...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> I just changed out the stock Quickbeam brakes for Tektro CR720s, a
> presumable upgrade.
>
> However, the brakes have fore-aft play on the canti bosses, and make a
> 'tank'ing noise when plucked. The bike makes the exact same noise when
> I jink to the left.
>
> So the bosses seem a shade too long for the brakes, both front and
> rear
>
> Has anyone else noticed this with the CR720?
> Should I add a thin washer under the nut? Under the brake?
> Is this the reason I get brake chatter on the front, or is that the
> pads still being brand new?
> Would moving the spring-end to the tighter hole keep the brakes from
> rattling as much?
>
> Also, regarding braking power, they seem the same as the old brakes.
> They're high profile, so I've got a high cable yoke. It can't get much
> higher. I want a stronger front brake with a higher yoke, since I
> can't lower the stock low-profile brake's yoke any further, due to the
> M12's mounting rod.
>
> Should I get a longer straddle wire to raise the yoke?
> Would using a NARROWER yoke make a stronger brake (something like the
> V.O. rollers)?
> Or would a WIDER yoke make a stronger brake?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>  Philip
> 97128

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