Huh! Very odd. Not at all my own experience. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 4, 2016, at 1:21 PM, Steve Palincsar <palin...@his.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>> On 12/04/2016 02:10 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
>> Steve: I am always surprised when I find that people have difficulty 
>> friction shifting Hyperglide, with any number of cogs from 7 to 9. IME, HG 
>> cogs shift better with friction than the old cogs with straight, square-cut 
>> teeth. I know what you mean by the feeling of lag, but while I experience 
>> that with indexed systems, I never experience it when shifting the same HG 
>> cogs in friction. I don't think my technique is so hugely refined, either. I 
>> probably do overshift slightly, from habit and without thinking, but I do 
>> that also with non-ramped/cut cogs. I rarely have to trim with HG.
> 
> Sure, they shift easily.  They want to shift.  What they don't want to do is 
> stay on a single sprocket - unless they are perfectly centered, and they 
> don't give you any tactile or auditory indication when that is.  So, the 
> result is, you're perfectly fine at low pressure -- say, coasting to a stop 
> at a traffic light -- but when you put a lot of pressure on the drive train, 
> such as climbing a steep section or starting the bike up from a dead halt, 
> the chain will upshift with a CRASH to the next smaller sprocket, commonly 
> known as "ghost shifting."
> 
>> 
>> Perhaps I so honed my shifting skills with a bent Alvit with loose pivots, 
>> pushrod Benelux, and bendy Simplex Delrin, that anything even slightly 
>> better is easy? But I doubt it.
>> 
>> I recall my old Herse, which I had equipped with a series of 5 or 6 speed 
>> fws, all pre HG. I forget what the rd was, but at any rate, the same rd 
>> shifter HG cogs better than it did the old fws. Same shifters, too.
>> 
>>> On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 7:11 AM, Steve Palincsar <palin...@his.com> wrote:
>>>> On 12/03/2016 11:52 PM, Max S wrote:
>>>> Friction shifting should be by far the easiest to set up and manage – just 
>>>> get the limit screws set up right, which you can do without the chain on 
>>>> the bike, and you're good to go. So, there's definitely something going on 
>>>> that would be easiest to trouble-shoot "in person." 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> Friction shifting Hyperglide is anything but "easy".  Yes the shifts happen 
>>> easily, much more so than was the case in the 1970s, but you don't get the 
>>> clack-clack-clack feedback to let you know when you are properly centered, 
>>> making ghost shifts (which is the complaint here) likely.   I will admit, 
>>> though, 7 speed Hyperglide is easier to friction shift than 8.
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> But I'll play online mechanic, too: 
>>>> 
>>>> What hub are you running?.. If it's an 8-9-10 speed hub, a 7sp cassette 
>>>> will most likely wobble, causing mis-shifts, and requiring a spacer to 
>>>> fix. 
>>>> If there's no wobble to the cassette, I'd check shifter cable tightness 
>>>> when the RD &                         chain are on the smallest cog – if 
>>>> it's too loose, the cable pull will be off throughout the entire range.
>>> 
>>> That may well be an issue with indexing, but with friction it means nothing 
>>> provided the lever has enough travel to take up tension to get to the 
>>> largest sprocket.
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> (Also be sure that the shifters aren't slipping mid-range – tighten if 
>>>> needed.) 
>>>> 
>>>> Also, are the cogs ramped?.. some 7sp cassettes (and freewheels) didn't 
>>>> have any ramps.
>>> 
>>> The cassette in question is definitely Hyperglide.  I've never used an 
>>> 8-9-10 speed hub, both my 7 speed setups are with spacers on 8/9, but with 
>>> that spacer in place they certainly don't wobble.   And the OP is using a 
>>> spacer.
>>> 
>>>> A 9 sp chain could simply be too flexible to get onto the next cog without 
>>>> a greater overshift, requiring you to "back off" right after the shift 
>>>> happens. (Shift happens...ha!) (In the olden days, that's how people 
>>>> friction-shifted anyway, and then some early indexing shifters – SunTour – 
>>>> even took that into account with built-in lashback.) 
>>> 
>>> I think you're confusing cause and effect.  Readers of Frank Berto's 
>>> exhaustive derailleur studies BITD will recall that some derailleurs were 
>>> "early shifting" (e.g., Shimano) while others were "late shifting" (for 
>>> example, Campagnolo NR and SunTour).  Overshifting and backing off is 
>>> required technique with late shifting rear derailleurs, but not necessarily 
>>> with early shifting ones.   
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Lastly, I'd not mess with a 9sp chain on a 7sp cassette. An 7/8 sp chain 
>>>> is usually the same whether for a 7 or 8 sp cluster, but a 9 sp chain 
>>>> tends to make noise and misbehaves a bit on a 7 or 8 sp cluster, IME. 
>>> 
>>> In fact, although when 8 first came out there was a difference between 7 
>>> speed and 8 speed chains today those 8 speed chains are called 7/8 by the 
>>> manufacturers, sometimes even 6/7/8 or 5/6/7/8.  I've never actually tried 
>>> a 9 speed chain on 7.
>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> BTW, I was setting up a "1xN" bike for my kid and discovered that the rear 
>>>> hub was Shimano 600 of the 7sp variety. Due to a number of considerations, 
>>>> I needed to fit a 9sp cassette on there, so I just dropped the 
>>>> next-to-smallest cog from the cluster and ended up with an 8 cog cluster 
>>>> having 9sp spacing. Shifts great, even with indexing. :-) 
>>> 
>>> Sheldon's famous "8 of 9 on 7"  -- which for some reason always makes me 
>>> think of her:
>>> 
>>> <mime-attachment.jpg>
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> - Max (A2) 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Saturday, December 3, 2016 at 4:16:00 PM UTC-5, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>>>> Hi all-
>>>>> 
>>>>> I was wondering if I could pick your brain a bit on this. I ended up with 
>>>>> the following setup for my Hilsen 1x7:
>>>>> 
>>>>> - Existing Wolf Tooth 40T Drop Stop wide/narrow ring
>>>>> - Deore 9spd Rear Derailleur (with pulleys swapped ala Deacon Patrick's 
>>>>> advice)
>>>>> - Riv Silver Downtube Shifters
>>>>> - HG-50 7sp Cassette (12-32) spaced with proper notched spacer on a 
>>>>> 8/9/10 speed cassette
>>>>> - SRAM 9 speed chain (narrower 9 or 10sp chains are recommended for the 
>>>>> Drop Stop ring)
>>>>> 
>>>>> Anyway, shifting is even worse than it was. Aside from constant ghost 
>>>>> shifting under load, it honestly feels like I'm NEVER in gear and can't 
>>>>> really                                 ride the bike as is (though I made 
>>>>> a valiant effort today). Even on the bike stand, there feels like there 
>>>>> is friction when I spin the crank. I'm not a skilled home mechanic by any 
>>>>> means, but I don't usually feel this incompetent! Oy. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Anyone have  a similar 1x setup? And any advice? I'm thinking of just 
>>>>> going to a standard 1x matched index setup and selling these parts. But 
>>>>> that's a pricey proposition for me and I wanted to see if I could figure 
>>>>> this out first.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>> 
>>>>> Eric
>>>>> 
>>>>> P.S. I know the logical solution is to just bring it to a local LBS. But 
>>>>> I'm having a lot of trouble finding one within riding distance (I don't 
>>>>> own a car) that even knows how to work with 'retro-y' parts. I've pretty 
>>>>> much given up on cantilever brakes for this reason...after spending a ton 
>>>>> of money getting them (very poorly) installed and adjusted a number of 
>>>>> times...including once when the brake pad fell out during a ride. 
>>>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> -- 
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>> ****************************************************************************************
>> The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
>> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
>> individualities revolve. Chuang Tzu
>> Stat crux dum volvitur orbis. (The cross stands motionless while the world 
>> revolves.) Carthusian motto
>> 
>> It is we who change; He remains the same. Eckhart
>> 
>> Kinei hos eromenon. (It moves [all things] as the beloved.) Aristotle
>> 
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