Seems like a 10s chain is nearing the limit of physical integration given 
the number of things it has to play nice with in a 7-8s drivetrain. RD 
jockey wheels, each cog of the cassette and the chainring. Dysfunction 
would seem less likely if all the rear parts were of the same spec and the 
single chainring was the outlier. 

Did the replacement jockey wheels leave the top one with some movement left 
and right on its axle? Shimano RDs have that to allow the wheel to 
fine-tune itself after the chain has been moved from one cog to another so 
the shifter adjustment (or you if in friction mode)  don't have to be 
perfectly accurate. The RD wheels will really make noise and want to auto 
shift thanks to all the ramps and such with little provocation. Be sure the 
slop's in that top pulley wheel. 

On my Rambouillet I only use friction mode for 8 cogs and have found that 
the RDFs that have no side to side play by design work really well for me 
and I go between Suntour XC Pro and a Mavic 841 for that crispness but 
manageable at 7 or 8 speeds with a friction bar end shifter.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

Shimano 7s HG cogs are 1.85mm thick, the 8s HG is 1.8mm, 9s is 1.78mm and 
10s is 1.6mm. 

Shimano 7s chain width is 7.3mm, 8s  is 8.1mm, 9s is 6.6 to 6.8mm, 10s is 
6.2mm and 10s narrow (CN-5700,CN-6700,CN-7900) are 5.88mm. 

None of that addresses the actual width of the roller or inside dimension 
of inner plate spacing which seems where the absoluteness of fit/no fit 
really is demonstrated. Some steps in higher number speed drivetrains are 
well documented to not change that inner dimension like 9 to 10s where 
reduction of material outside of the roller thickness reduces the outside 
width. 

Leonard Zinn answers several questions from readers about the interplay of 
mixed speed components here, the description of mechanical dysfunction he 
provides seems really pertinent: Velo News-chain compatibility 
<http://www.velonews.com/2016/01/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/tech-faq-chain-width-explained-compatibility-queries-answered_392163>

On Saturday, December 3, 2016 at 4:16:00 PM UTC-5, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
> I was wondering if I could pick your brain a bit on this. I ended up with 
> the following setup for my Hilsen 1x7:
>
> - Existing Wolf Tooth 40T Drop Stop wide/narrow ring
> - Deore 9spd Rear Derailleur (with pulleys swapped ala Deacon Patrick's 
> advice)
> - Riv Silver Downtube Shifters
> - HG-50 7sp Cassette (12-32) spaced with proper notched spacer on a 8/9/10 
> speed cassette
> - SRAM 9 speed chain (narrower 9 or 10sp chains are recommended for the 
> Drop Stop ring)
>
> Anyway, shifting is even worse than it was. Aside from constant ghost 
> shifting under load, it honestly feels like I'm NEVER in gear and can't 
> really ride the bike as is (though I made a valiant effort today). Even on 
> the bike stand, there feels like there is friction when I spin the crank. 
> I'm not a skilled home mechanic by any means, but I don't usually feel this 
> incompetent! Oy. 
>
> Anyone have  a similar 1x setup? And any advice? I'm thinking of just 
> going to a standard 1x matched index setup and selling these parts. But 
> that's a pricey proposition for me and I wanted to see if I could figure 
> this out first.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric
>
> P.S. I know the logical solution is to just bring it to a local LBS. But 
> I'm having a lot of trouble finding one within riding distance (I don't own 
> a car) that even knows how to work with 'retro-y' parts. I've pretty much 
> given up on cantilever brakes for this reason...after spending a ton of 
> money getting them (very poorly) installed and adjusted a number of 
> times...including once when the brake pad fell out during a ride. 
>

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