I converted my Hunqapillar from a 24/36/46 triple to a 24/38 plus double FD
and had no issues shifting whatsoever. Could go to 24/40 for the maximum 16
tooth differential.

I have that differential on the Bike Friday with the René Herse 36/52 and
have no issues shifting either.

You can keep the FD if you just go double ala Rivendell, meaning a triple
crankset with the large ring replaced by a guard. Adjust the limiter screw
on the outside and you should be fine, I think. Otherwise you need a double
FD.

René

On Wednesday, June 1, 2016, dougP <dougpn...@gmail.com> wrote:

> If you can find a 7 speed 11-28, you will give a similar low to what you
> have now with a 24 inner ring, 24/28= 0.86; 26/30= 0.87.  On the high end,
> 38 x 11 (3.45) is not far off 46 x 13 (3.54).
>
> Most wide-low doubles utilize a cogset of at least 3:1 range (11-34;
> 12-36, etc) which gets into more cogs.  Another thought is the 10 tooth
> changes in your current chainrings make for easy shifting.  Dropping from
> 38 to 24 is a more dramatic shift.  If your current range is sufficient,
> and your shifting reliable, it begs the question of "why change?".
>
> dougP
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 8:42:51 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> History:
>> I use a 26-36-46 up front right now
>> I use a 13-30 7-speed cassette in back (avoids autoshifts with friction
>> that way).
>> Bleriot. 135mm d'outs in the back.
>> This enables 95% of the hills I ride without dropping to the granny ring.
>> But sometimes I must use it. Happy to do so, too.
>> I ain't giving up friction shifting, and I ain't giving up 7-speed. So
>> don't even.
>>
>>
>> 1. I know if I go to compact double, a 24 chainring will be the inner
>> ring, so that is settled. In stone. Because of the climbs I sometimes
>> encounter.
>>
>> But it is selecting the outside ring that gets me.
>>
>> 2. The majority of hills where I ride I ride in the 36 x 30 combo.
>> Anything harder and I dump down to the granny. 26 x 30.
>> So there is no way I could ride a 40-something big ring. So I am confused
>> about how to select the best toothcount for me for my big ring so that I
>> don't alos spin out on the downhills, yet can do the uphills without the
>> granny dump.
>>
>> 3. Should I just use the ring that would enable me to cruise flats in the
>> middle of cassette?
>> 4. Should I also then change the cassette to the widest 7-speed possible?
>>
>> I once tried a racer geared compact double bike and it wasn't for me. No
>> low enough small ring and too big of a big ring resulted in lots of FD
>> shifting, which I am trying to avoid.
>>
>>
>> --
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