Nothing against the Pit Lock using contingent here (he says in advance to 
avoid further ruffling anyone's feathers) but the security bolt idea is a 
great and inexpensive solution -- you just need to remember to pack along 
the appropriate tamper resistant hex L- wrench if you're the type that 
likes to make adjustments on the fly. It's a nearly fool-proof solution 
since the Riv binder design embeds the nylock nut flush on the other side 
.. all you're left to worry about is the parts pinching thief who carries 
around a set of security wrenches with him while out hunting. And btw: you 
can replace the saddle clamp bolt the same way, as well. 

Shioji's spec is spot-on for the Riv standard seatpost binder. Lastly, the 
wrenches that Security Bolts supplies with your purchase are pretty nice 
but if you're looking to upgrade then Bondhus sells a decent set work 
looking into:

http://www.bondhustools.com/ccp0-prodshow/bondhus_48386.html

On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 12:49:34 AM UTC-5, Patrick D Kelly wrote:
>
> I've got a joe appaloosa on order. I'd like to try out securing my seat 
> post and saddle with bolts from http://www.bicyclebolts.com/. Anybody 
> know what size/which bolts I should get?
>
> I've used pinhead locking skewers on my bikes up to now. Any 
> (anti-)recommendations for skewers and the joe?
>
> Assuming I used a good u-lock and sheldon brown locking method, are there 
> any other bits that I can/should worry about locking? I'm guessing there's 
> nothing to be done (nothing available) for the quill stem/handle bar.
>
> mahalo
>

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