Thanks Anton - the Atlantis already has a hole right at the bottom of the
shell. I was pleasantly surprised to find very little surface rust anywhere
inside the frame. I obviously couldn't see inside the seat and chain stays,
but the chain stays are sloped downwards so any rust would probably be
toward the BB shell, which looked clean so far as I could see. I treated
external surface rust with some clear nail polish, which is a short-term
fix. I've rubbed the paint off from muddy tires and dropped chains, so it's
fairly minor, but this should help slow it down till I one-day repaint it.


Regarding the Phil BB - I was using their new weather shields. I started to
wonder if they actually trap water INSIDE, rather than keep it out. I mean
of course they keep a lot of water out. But if the bb is ever submerged
momentarily, I could see them filling up and retaining water against the
seals. This is just a suspicion, I have no way of knowing it. Either way,
the only point of entry for water to access the bearings on a Phil BB would
be from the outside (the inside is protected by the bearing retaining shell
and mounting rings), so clearly they aren't preventing moisture from
getting at them very well. I hope I can find some good bearings locally and
fabricate some kind of bearing press to install them. Bummer that I JUST
traded my other Phil BB with new bearings in it for a WI BB!

On Mon, Jan 11, 2016 at 3:17 PM, Anton Tutter <atut...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Good luck with the FluidFilm, I've heard the stuff is great. I had been
> using FrameSaver and liked it a lot, but switched to Boeshield once when
> there seemed to be a worldwide shortage of FrameSaver.  Boeshield doesn't
> seem to dry as waxy as FrameSaver, and whatever residue it leaves behind is
> very thin, but I suppose it's better than nothing.
>
> If you haven't already put a new BB in, while the BB shell is empty you
> might want to drill a small (1/8") hole through the bottom of the BB shell
> if the Atlantis's shell isn't already drilled. It is the best way to ensure
> that any trapped moisture or even standing water drains and vents. You can
> dab a little FluidFilm on the bare metal exposed from drilling. I've done
> this on a few bikes and have been glad I did.
>
> Anton
>
>
> On Monday, January 11, 2016 at 10:35:59 AM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
>> Took the plunge last night and stripped the Atlantis down to the frame
>> and gave it a good dose of FluidFilm. The stuff sprays on nice and easy. I
>> used painters tape to seal off the bottom end of each tube, sprayed from
>> the top liberally, the taped off the top and end spun the frame around to
>> coat everything inside. Mess was minimal and I was able to apply it inside
>> my apartment. This morning it looks like the stuff has started to cure a
>> bit, into a yellowish thin film. The can says it will never harden, but
>> rather retain a soft waxy feel. Tonight I'll re-assemble the bike. Sad news
>> was I discovered my Phil BB, less than a year old, has notchy bearings
>> already. Not impressed.
>>
>> On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 1:09:41 PM UTC-6, Kieran J wrote:
>>>
>>> I've bought Boeshield at Lee Valley in the recent past. Some LBSs carry
>>> it too.
>>>
>>> KJ
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 1:59:20 PM UTC-5, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi Mark...I would definitely spray something in your frame...we've used
>>>> Boeshield and LPS3 and I've had my frames sprayed a couple of times over
>>>> the years. I suspect your Atlantis was initially treated with Boeshield or
>>>> LPS3 or some such, but the treatment does  need to be periodically
>>>> repeated. Lee Valley used to sell a really good lubricant,  with , I think,
>>>> lanolin as an ingredient but I don't see it there
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 10:54:33 AM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Ah, I'm familiar with that product. And on that note, can't believe I
>>>>> forgot about this, I JUST rust treated a 40 year old motorcycle tank. It
>>>>> was naaaasty rusty inside. Guess what ate the rust clean off, is dirt
>>>>> cheap, can be dumped onto the street after, and available everywhere?
>>>>>
>>>>> White vinegar!
>>>>>
>>>>> I filled the tank (which was completely lined with rust) with vinegar,
>>>>> and added a few small sheet metal screws to knock the rust loose when I'd
>>>>> shake it. I let it sit for about a week, shaking it a few times a day. A
>>>>> week might have been way more than needed. but the point is, it came out
>>>>> 100% clean. I then treated it with an epoxy tank liner product to prevent
>>>>> rust from returning, which I wouldn't ever do on a bike frame, but the
>>>>> vinegar would certainly be a good rust treatment for inside a rusty 
>>>>> bicycle
>>>>> frame.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at 10:49 AM, drew <drewbe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> amsoil hdmp is, from what i can tell, the exact same thing as jpw
>>>>>> frame saver.  it's awesome. boeshield feels watery and runny, but
>>>>>> amsoil/framesaver sticks and runs the right amount to make you confident
>>>>>> that its on, and staying on, all surfaces.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> if you are worried about rust that you already have, i had great luck
>>>>>> refurbishing a rust bucket frame with THIS
>>>>>> <http://www.zoro.com/metal-rescue-rust-remover-non-toxic-ph-neutral-metalrescue1gal/i/G7491915/?gclid=CP7WjMXUmsoCFZKCfgodhOMDqQ&gclsrc=aw.ds>
>>>>>>  product.
>>>>>> i stripped the frame, plugged all holes, filled the frame with the
>>>>>> liquid for about a day, dumped it out and with it came the rust. then 
>>>>>> just
>>>>>> applied amsoil.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
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>>>>>
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