On Wednesday, December 30, 2015 at 1:40:10 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote: > > Especially where there's this much clearance. But on the Clem, the > unique curve of the stays means that the hole is not actually pointing at > the center of the axle, so it looks like it would either require a wedge > shaped spacer, would end up putting stress on the fender or bolt or both. > Thanks for any ideas. > > > <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6ExqFzGxCAg/VoQ_9ZCRZyI/AAAAAAAAAPA/zgSSYDRd9PA/s1600/fenderstay.jpg> > > I don't know who asked about the Clem (attribution is a bit messed up on my end), but one can always dent a metal fender to suit the misaligned concentricity, like how one usually does at the bottom of the fork crown. If it's a plastic fender, some careful application of heat from a heat gun or hairdryer will usually result in temporarily softened polycarbonate that is suitable for bending to one's will. This isn't really anything out of the ordinary and in fact is to be expected to get a good fender line. I don't build bikes professionally, but am good enough (relatively) that friends have requested, so I've built a few; I haven't seen any fender installation that is a plug-n-play yet.
Since Rivendell bikes were mentioned, I had about 1" of space that I needed to contend with, to get the fender line I wanted on my Atlantis. The chainstay and seatstay bridges are equidistant from the vertical dropout so I decided to get some proper length standoffs from McMaster-Carr <http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-standoffs/=10h0q17> for a clean job. On a friend's (much smaller) 47cm Atlantis, there was just as much space that I had to accommodate, albeit she was running Kojak 1.3 instead of my Compass 1.75. Lucky I bought spares! :) [image: The Atlantis has globs of clearance. Even running 26x1.75" tires, the fenders needed a 25mm (yes, that's an inch) standoff to obtain a good fender line.<br /> <br /> The fenders are Tanaka "Traditional" aluminum fenders. These are not like Honjos, with their cheaper-looking hardware and lessor finish. They're also slightly shorter in length (although true-to-size in width), necessitating mudflaps to really mitigate spray. However, they are less than half the price of Honjos and are thus excellent value for money.<br /> <br /> The Compass 26x1.75 tires are really expensive but are super nice. They allegedly have Grand Bois tire casing and special grippier rubber. Whatever it is they did to the tire, it rolls and rides really well...enough to nearly justify the price.<br /> <br /> I've intentionally raised the cable hanger to increase the yoke angle, so as to increase brake pad-to-rim clearance, at the expense of reducing mechanical advantage. I did this because the rear brakes don't need that much power anyway and having more clearance for the rear brake is always better (the rear wheel being the weaker one).] For my Rivendell Custom, I had specified larger clearances (for a 700c x 35) but ended up running with smaller Parigi-Roubaix 700c x 27 tires instead, so I had to put in a small spacer to get a good fender line. Even the well-thought out and quite Frenchy Boulder All Road needed some help with spacers, even when running with largish Hetres tires. [image: Old school Avid Tri-Align cantilever brakes need no introduction to any 90's MTB gear head. Less obvious are the standoffs with the exact height I procured from McMaster-Carr to space the fender properly.] -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
