That sounds flat-out wonderful.

From: [email protected] 
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bill Lindsay
Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2015 11:44 AM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] European Vacation (tangential Riv-content)

Howdy all.  I'm back from a ~3 week European vacation.  There was zero riding, 
so if you want ride reports, this is not your post.

Who:  Me, my wife, my two kids (14 and 11) and my mom.  My mom obtained her 
very first passport for this trip, having never left North America (bless her 
heart)
Where:  San Francisco to London.  Rail from London to York.  Rail from York to 
Edinburgh.  Rail from Edinburgh to Inverness.  Caledonian Sleeper (rail) from 
Inverness to London.  Eurostar (rail) from London to Paris.  Eurostar back to 
London.  Return flight to SFO.

Quick-hit highlights:

Bicycle use in these towns:  Everyone everywhere rides normal basic sensible 
bikes to get around.  Helmet usage is ~10% amongst commuters.  Traffic 
coexistence with bicycles was what I'd call "completely self-aware".  Cars are 
pushy and aggressive, to be sure.  Horns get used, but I got the vibe that even 
the most aggressive drivers were fully aware of the presence of cyclists.  It's 
not like the US where you fear you are going to get run over by a clueless or 
distracted driver and the driver will stand over your carcass saying, "he came 
out of nowhere!".

Public bikes:  I was tempted to use both the Paris and London public bikes, but 
didn't.  We had to stick together as a group, and some of us were way too 
nervous.  The setups seemed super nice, very user friendly, and the usage 
levels (ridership) seemed excellent.  On my last stay in London, we were in the 
Islington neighborhood.  There was a huge array of public bikes in the 
residential area where our apartment was.  By about 9:15 AM they were all gone, 
presumably by work commuters.  These racks full of bikes are deployed around 
London at an average spacing of ~500m.  Incredible.  One night walking back 
from the Pub, there was a truck reloading the rack, balancing the fill-fraction 
of all the racks.  In touristy spots like Picadilly Circus, I saw a lot of 
overflow bikes being loaded into the trucks for load-balancing.  For two UK 
pounds you can take as many sub-30 minute trips as you like for 24 hours.  Tell 
me a better way to explore a city for cheaper than that.

Cycletouring:  I saw lots and lots of bikes being taken on cycletours.  Almost 
all of them had the modified loop bars typical of European cycletouring bikes.  
Most ran Ortlieb panniers.  The trains had these huge rectangular modules that 
you could lean 5 or 6 bikes into one module, and they'd load it on the train 
like a luggage cart.  There are some parking spots for bikes on trains, but it 
varies line-to-line.  The countryside was spectacular, especially up in 
Scotland.  I'm eager to return to the Highlands and explore the backroads.  
Unbelievably beautiful country.  Especially for us Californians who are 
surrounded by brown.

Bike Shop fun:  A close friend owns a shop called Bicycle Heaven in Geneva, 
Illinois.  I was amused to find Cycle Heaven in York, bought a water bottle.  
In Edinburgh I visited Ronde Cycles, a high-end road and cross shop with a 
built in espresso cafe.  They let (that's English for 'rent') nice road bikes, 
and the owner manager Nick was super friendly.  Very nice space in a terrific 
city.  I'd live in Edinburgh, no problem.  In Paris, I got a couple hours of 
free time and made it out on the Metro to Cycles Alex Singer.  I bought a 
jersey and a water bottle.  The shop had a "be right back" sign on the door 
when I got there.  After waiting for about 20 minutes, the shopkeeper returned. 
 He'd been at the bar to watch the end of the Alpe d-Huez stage of the BORAF.  
It was like going to church on some level.  I poked around their workshop 
briefly, but my darn phone was full, so I couldn't take a lot of pictures.  
Also in Paris, I spent a half-day in the rain the Tulleries Garden watching the 
circuit portion of the final day of the BORAF (aka Tour de France).  That was a 
bucket list item and it was great.  In London, I visited the Rapha store, and 
bought a lightwieght merino sweater/LSjersey.  Having witnessed the end of the 
TDF/BORAF I felt a little bit less of a poseur buying a wool jersey with a team 
SKY logo on it.  I had a really nice chat with a couple of the staff members.  
They reinforced that there is great riding up in the highlands.

In total, I just barely got the lid off the places I visited, but had a great 
trip.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
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