Nice trick. And a good reason to hang to the old bearings! They become 
tools.



On Monday, December 1, 2014 4:28:16 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Bo-ePjd2qEs/VHzctaOp_jI/AAAAAAAAIyw/3Snkee6O7IU/s1600/IMG_8683.JPG>
> Attached is a photo of how I've been pressing new bearings in. It's worked 
> perfectly for about 4-5 hubs now. I lightly grease the outer bearing race 
> and the inside of the hub shell. Then I have a thick and heavy washer which 
> covers both the inner AND outer race of the bearing. This insures that the 
> pressure isn't just applied to the inner race, which will lead to damage 
> and failure. Then I have the old bearing, followed by the PW axle spacer. 
> Then it's simple - just thread the axle bolt into the hub and crank the new 
> bearing in. 
>
> The original PW instructions did not specify the water, just the old 
> bearing. The axle spacer would push hard on the old inner race, which would 
> in turn drive the new bearing into the shell from its inner race. That's 
> just too much force on a part that was never intended to have forces 
> applied. My version mitigates that issue and only cost me about 20 cents :)
>
> On Monday, December 1, 2014 3:12:02 PM UTC-6, Anton Tutter wrote:
>>
>> As far as I know, the only reliable way to remove and install bearings is 
>> with the appropriate press.  I've used simple DIY presses for pressing 
>> bearings into place, but for removing them you need either an arbor press 
>> or wheel puller. 
>>
>> I believe PW uses NTN bearings which are indeed very high quality 
>> Japanese bearings. But they order them to their own specs, which no one 
>> outside the company really knows... 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, December 1, 2014 2:13:49 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>
>>> I've been emailing back and forth with Phil Wood this morning on this 
>>> very issue actually, after they noticed a discussion I was having on 
>>> Twitter about lube for PW freehubs. I gave them a detailed run down of the 
>>> problem and the three different lubes i've tried (phil grease, then 
>>> tenacious, then triflow). I'll let you know what they say, but I'm betting 
>>> it'll be 'send it in'... When this first started happening I did an 
>>> extensive search online and found there were several others with the same 
>>> issue, and some didn't receive their hubs back for several months. That is 
>>> not an acceptable solution. 
>>>
>>> The freewheel style hubs should certainly be less susceptible to 
>>> problems as there are basically no moving parts in them. Pretty much the 
>>> same as the single speed hubs. 
>>>
>>> That said, I've had problems with one single speed rear hub and one 
>>> front road hub. The rear single speed bearings went in the first six months 
>>> for me, which was being ridden in some nasty weather, but still. When I 
>>> replaced them with new Phil bearings according to the instructions on PW's 
>>> website, the bearings were destroyed by the install process! I emailed PW 
>>> to ask if I had done something wrong and they indicated the process by 
>>> which I installed the bearings would result in bearing failure. I pointed 
>>> out I used their own instructions from their website, and I was told the 
>>> instructions were no longer valid... That was about three-four years ago. 
>>> The instructions are still on their site...
>>>
>>> I replaced them a second time using a different method and they've been 
>>> great ever since. Lots of wet and sandy weather, they continue to get 
>>> smoother. It was an expensive lesson though, as PW bearings are not cheap.
>>>
>>> My front road hub has a fair amount of side-to-side play at the rim. I 
>>> know a certain amount is normal for cartridge bearings, but it was enough 
>>> that it would rattle quite loudly when bounced up and down. None of my 
>>> others have that issue.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Dec 1, 2014 at 12:42 PM, Garth <gart...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks Mark,
>>>>
>>>>    Yikes about the PW attachment of the CS shell.   I for one prefer 
>>>> the FW/CS body mechanism and it's attachment not being able to render a 
>>>> wheel unusable .  I do not own CS hubs , my needs have always been served 
>>>> with FW's and FW hubs . I have 2 sets of Phil FW hubs and they've been 
>>>> flawless themselves, as expected.  I'm all about user serviceability for 
>>>> the most part.  No, I don't tear down FW's completely but do take off the 
>>>> cogs and clean the inside and relube them.  I'll likely never buy a high 
>>>> end CS hub unless it's design is not vulnerable like the PW CS hub is in 
>>>> it's attachment and need to send in the entire wheel to PW to get it 
>>>> fixed.  That's just unreasonable to me.   I guess that's why I love the 
>>>> independence of the FW system :)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, December 1, 2014 11:47:37 AM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> In regards to the Phil Wood hubs, the problem is often with the 
>>>>> ratchet ring which is threaded into the hub shell/body. The issue isn't 
>>>>> often that the pawls themselves are faulty, they just can't engage with a 
>>>>> faulty ratchet ring. And for whatever reason Phil Wood does not sell the 
>>>>> tool to remove and replace the ratchet ring, even to bike shops. I've 
>>>>> read 
>>>>> many times that there was as bad run of ratchet rings several years back 
>>>>> and this was a common replacement. 
>>>>>
>>>>> On my hub, the ring and pawls all look fine to me, the issue is that 
>>>>> the spring which pushes the pawls outward into the ratchet ring isn't 
>>>>> very 
>>>>> strong. A ticker oil like Tenacious oil, combined with colder weather is 
>>>>> just too much for the spring to force the pawls into the ratchet and 
>>>>> engage. 
>>>>>
>>>>>
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>>>
>>>

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