Also sprach Jean-Marc Lasgouttes:
It turns out I have either ubuntu 9.10 (texlive 2007) or ubuntu 10.10
(texlive 2010?).

Isn't it a matter of loading fontspec package with Ligatures=TeX?

The problem, AFAIU, is that the fontspec version back then did not support LuaTeX yet, but only XeTeX. LuaTeX support was added somewhere around fontspec v.2. I don't know if older versions return a sensible error message, though.

Jürgen

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