Jim Litchfield wrote:
>Do I need a sensor on every stack or can I put a sensor after the
rearmost stack in the pipe going away from the vertical stacks ?<
An EGT probe for each cylinder is preferable. it doesn't weigh much and
can help determine what kind of failure you're headed for if something's
amiss, and exactly which cylinder to examine and what might be wrong
with it. Bottom line, improve engine reliability and improve the
likelihood of you "getting there" or not.
I bought some "twin lead" (red and yellow) K type thermocouple wire from
Digikey, Newark, or somewhere similar, and simply stripped a half inch
off the ends of the two wires, twisted them up like safety wire, and
then hit them with a quick blast with the TIG welder. I suspect the
same could be done with a propane torch also, but certainly an
oxy-acetelene torch. Then I simply folded the end over to make it
larger diameter, and crimped the welded thermocouple into a 12mm or
14mm thin-wall ring terminal (depending on spark plug threads), and cut
to length at installation. If I remember tomorrow I'll look up the
exact part number of those ring terminals while I'm at the hangar. They
were a bit hard to find.....something large diameter made for minimal
wire gauge size, and relatively thin ring. I think I even soldered mine
a bit at the terminal/thermocouple interface for maximum heat transfer
area, and put shrink tubing on it as a strain relief. Seems to work
pretty well, as all EGTs are very similar on the VW I'm running on
N891JF, including ambient temperature (where they are exactly the same
temperature. It can also be tested with a Fluke meter or other
thermocouple-ready meter. Test at ambient, and should should all be the
same temp or maybe a degree off....close enough for KR work!
Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com
Huntsville, AL
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