At 04:01 PM 12/26/2006, Mark Jones wrote: >Here is mine: http://www.flykr2s.com/bellyboard.html > >Mark Jones +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
My setup is similar to Mark's and my only comment on his is that it is probably a bit "over-built". I use a Cessna 150 flap motor to actuate mine and I'd love to have an RV motor like Mark's. I could knock five pounds off the weight. My board is made of 1/4 inch foam and glass. I installed a strip of pine ( 1/4" by approx 1 1/2") in the lead edge and a piece of 1/4" ply block where the actuator arm attaches. The hinge is floxed and glassed to the lead edge. I cut 15 or 20 - 3/4" holes in mine which I hoped would give extra drag. My board will lower to near 90 degrees in about 7 seconds and the extra drag makes for a totally different airplane in the landing mode. The floor is plenty strong to attach to. Mine is attached to the floor just behind the rear spar. I added a piece of clear pine molding from the lumber yard ( 1/4" by approx 1/12", same as the board lead edge) the entire width of the fuselage floor on the top side where the board mounts. I used 5 each, 3/16 bolts with wood washers on the inside of the fuselage floor to mount. I tapered the edges of the board and built a small air ramp of foam to the fuselage bottom to fair the lead edge of the board. I routinely lower the board up to 110 mph indicated with no problems. If you build your board of foam and glass when the KR is upside down, you could glass one side of the board (the side next to the fuselage laid out on plastic) and weight the board while the glass cures. This should make the board conform to the curve in the fuselage bottom for better streamlining. A similar board and mounting system could be used , regardless of the means of actuation. Larry Flesner
