Doesn't the sport pilot stuff have a radius from home restriction?  Bobby





> Brian:
>
> My biggest concern was weakening the wing by cutting into it.  I am also
> toying
> withe the Idea of a "Bladder Tank because the tank would collapse as the
> fuel
> was consumed whch should reduce the tank venting issue.  My goal is to
> reduce
> the fuel in the cowl header tank to about an hour and have the rest in the
> wings.
>
> How did you reinforce the wing to make up for opening the wing?  I feel
> also
> that a properly designed bladder tank would require a much smaller opening
> which
> should be a plus but fuel "slosh from lack of  "baffles" could be an
> issue.
>
> I am taking over a  KR2 project that was being built as a Tr-Geared  bird
> and is
> on its main gear.  It needs Fire-Wall Fwd, Nose Gear ass'y and cockpit
> fit-out
> pait and finish.  I intend to do all that I can to get it under
> sport-plane
> limits so it will have a smaller engine in it to keep the Speed down.  Max
> fuel
> load will be kept to no more than 21 gallons usable but not less 5 hrs
> range.  I
> want it for cross country use from my midwest location to Yuma in the west
> and
> Raliegh Durham in the east.  Shoud make for cheaper travel than by car and
> a
> whole lot quicker.  I am a Pvt Pilot with over 300 hours but at age 63
> will just
> convert to a sport pilot.
>
> Don
>
> Brian Kraut wrote:
>
>> I retrofitted them in the stub wings at the same time that I converted
>> from
>> the retract gear to fixed gear.  It wasn't terribly hard and doing it on
>> the
>> outboard wings should be easy also.  Basically here is what I did:
>>
>> Cut a rectangular hole on the bottom side of the wing between the two
>> spars.
>> Use foam sheet about an inch and a half thick aginst the spars and on
>> the
>> inboard and outboard side of the hole you cut.  You basically want to
>> make a
>> box in the wing and leave a lip around it that is flat and about 3/4"
>> below
>> the bottom surface of the glass on the wing.  Carve some of the foam out
>> of
>> the wing top sheet to give yourself a thickness of about 3/4" on the
>> foam.
>> Use some instant expanding foam to give yourself somewhat sealed corners
>> and
>> make them a little rounded.
>>
>> Now get a flat sheet of 2" foam a little bigger than the rectangle you
>> cut
>> out and glass one side of it with three layers of glass.  Lay it upside
>> down
>> on a flat smooth surface with bagging film or plastic sheet on it and
>> put
>> some weights on it so when it dries you peel off the film and have a
>> foam
>> board with one side of smooth flat glass.  Trim this piece so it is
>> about an
>> eighth inch smaller than the hole in the wing all the way around.  Wrap
>> it
>> with bagging film or plastic wrap.
>>
>> Now cut yourself three layers of glass to fit each of the bottom and
>> sides
>> of the box  hole in your wing.  Make them all a little big so they
>> overlap
>> on the edges and make the side pieces tall enough so they wrap over the
>> flat
>> lip you left on the side pieces.  Also cut a bunch of pieces of about 3"
>> strips for reinforcement on all corners.  Glass all the pieces in
>> overlapping and also putting the strips between each layer in the
>> corners.
>>
>> When it is all in you will have the glass folded over the lips around
>> the
>> box.  Get a good amount of epoxy there and then lay in the foam and
>> glass
>> rectangle that you made and wrapped with the plastic.  Put some weight
>> on it
>> around the edges.  When the tank dries you will be able to pop this
>> piece
>> out and the lip on the tank will be nice and flat and fit the
>> rectangular
>> cover.
>>
>> Now trim about a quarter inch additional off of the rectangular piece.
>> Sand
>> the edges of it and the lip on the tank for a good bond and then epoxy
>> it
>> in.  You should have at least a half inch of contact area between the
>> surfaces.  Put weights on the edges then pour some epoxy about a quarter
>> inch deep around the edges to get even more of a seal.  This is why you
>> trimmed it again to make yourself the epoxy moat.
>>
>> When it is all dry you can fill in the gaps with expanding foam, sand
>> your
>> rectangular cover foam to match the wing, and put on another two or
>> three
>> layers of glass overlapping the original glass on the wing.
>>
>> I did leave out a few steps like putting in the fuel lines etc.  Make
>> sure
>> you have some kind of screen on the end of the line.  I also carved a
>> concave well in the front inboard side of the cover where the fuel line
>> pickup would sit and one in the rear inboard corner where I epoxied in
>> an
>> aluminum welding flange for the sump drain.  I also epoxied in one of
>> the
>> plastic fuel caps that Great Plains sells before I put the bottom cover
>> on.
>>
>> I used a good bit of expoxy on the inside of the box and still had some
>> pin
>> holes so I sanded it down then used a brush to paint on a good wet coat
>> of
>> epoxy and let that dry to get it sealed.  Since the bottom cover dried
>> against the smooth bagging film it didn't have any pin holes.
>>
>> Good luck.  This process is a whole lot harder to describe than it is to
>> do
>> so if you don't get something I am saying just ask.
>>
>> You can also cut the hole in the top of the wing, but it is much less
>> flat
>> and will be a lot harder to make the cover for and have it seal against
>> the
>> rest of the tank.
>>
>> I used three layers of glass in the tanks.  Mine were only 5 gallons
>> each.
>> If you are making them bigger you might want a little more glass at
>> least on
>> the bottom and sides.
>>
>> Brian Kraut
>> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
>> www.engalt.com
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
>> Behalf Of D F Lively
>> Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 9:48 PM
>> To: kr...@mylist.net
>> Subject: KR> Retro-fitting Wing Tanks
>>
>> KR Builders.
>>
>> Has anyone retrofitted fuel tranks in the outboard wings?  What about
>> "Bladder Tanks"?
>>
>> Don Lively
>> riksh...@interl.net
>>
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>
>
>
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