Orma is absolutely correct in his post below. Another point to remember is that the nut plate should be completely covered even where the edges meet the wood. If not epoxy may seep in under the nut plate and into the threads causing the screw to lock up. I used tiny #4 x 1/4" stainless steel wood screws to secure my nutplates to the spar so covering the entire nutplate with wax is not an issue.
Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI -----Original Message----- From: Orma [mailto:o...@aviation-mechanics.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 7:59 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Re: Screwed, blued and tattoed !!! if you had diped the nylon threads in wax first then they probely would have come out a lot eaiser. Hello Net That is not necessarily true. The locking feature of the nut will cut the wax and a tiny bit of the plastic as the screw passes that part of the nut plate. The part that is on the other side of the plate embedded in the flox will be stuck. Cover the back of the nutplate and the screw, what ever type you use with thick grease or wax, to make sure that the flox can't touch the back of the nut plate at all. I used floating nut plates attached to small aluminum plates and attached the aluminum plates to the spar with small wood screws. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years Flying, flying and more flying http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
