Dan, This is NOT good, in fact,I'm positive that this much change will adversely affect the flying qualities of your aircraft. Unfortunatly, this was probably an expensive error, as trying to remove the skin will likely ruin the the skin and the spar.
You should seek out the advise of Dan Diehl and see how he could help you salvage what you have. DO NOT try to pry off the skin from the spars and ribs, as this will surely damage or destroy the ribs and spars. What you could do is carefully cut the skin from the spar insuring that you do not damage the spars. Then carefully sand the skin residue from the spar. Purchase new lower wing skins, and start over. Next time, you need to be absolutely positive the skins and spars cannot move or change during the cure cycle. To do so, you need to build a what is called a Bond Jig that supports the skin and spars and insures things won't move around during the cure cycle. This Bond Jig should be securely mounted to the floor, and should not only support the wing, but the fuselage also. It's imperative to maintain that relationship between the two. Your Bond Jig should ensure and maintain a level fuselage and inner spars. DO NOT rely on the main langing gear tires for this support. In fact they shouldn't even be allowed to touch the floor while in this process. I would triangulate support the fuselage at the Wing attach fittings (contact the inner spar) and somewhere near, but not on the tailwheel support. Insure that the fuselage cannot move in any direcion. Fabricate a cradle that again triangulate supports the skin, spars and ribs for the outer wing. Design some adjustability into your tool. This outer wing jig could be supports that are the lower skin profile at three (triangulated) locations along the span. Attach your outer spars and ribs. Your bond jig should absolutely insure that these parts cannot move during assembly. Attach your lower skin again insuring the relationship between all parts and the fuselage. I use Bondo around the floor mounts, and any place that adjustabilty occurs, to do this with. As an example, I bondo'd my leveled build table to the floor before I built my Horizontal and Vertical Stabs. I don't like things moving around. You should do several trial assemblies before you secure the adustments in the tools. Taking measurements and ensuring repeatability. Secure all adjustments doing the bondo treatment. Before you commit to attaching these parts permanently, try doing several trial assemblies, again taking new measurements each time. Take a deep breath, mix up the epoxy and final assemble everything for the last time. By then you'll not only be assured of the quality, but you'll be a pro at assembling outer wings (and the confidence that comes along with it). As a word of encouragement, your project quality is a direct reflection of the tools that you use. Good Luck! --- Dan & Michele <da...@qwics.com> wrote: > Netters I am curently in the proces of instaling > my Diehl wingskins.I have the lower skin on both > wings, the ribs are in place. Last night I went out > to my garage to doublecheck the washout before > epoxying on the top wingskin. Much to my dismay the > washout had changed. It was off 3/4" over a 2' > length on the right wing at the rib glued to the end > of the spar and 3/16" on the left, aparently while > gluing the lower skins to the spars the weight of > the clamps caused the rear spar to sag. ===== Scott Cable KR-2S # 735 Wright City, MO s2cab...@yahoo.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
