Tesla uses a dense silicone that's very heat resistant, it's almost identical to this 3M product: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065446/
The Nissan sealant seemed a little less dense, but I suspect it was still a high-heat type of silicone. In either case, the oscillating multi-tool with flexible stainless blade worked well, In some cases had to pry a bit to be able to get started, but once it was in, it took off. On Mon, Apr 11, 2022 at 8:10 PM Bill Dube via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote: > They typically use a specialized knife to cut this urethane adhesive on > windshields and other autobody panels. (The blade used to be heated > electrically, but these are falling out of fashion. The old style > adhesive was not urethane, but rather more like tar. You had to melt it > as much as cut it.) > > These knives generally are small and have a hook shape. The have a > cable, with a pull handle, attached at the root of the blade. You use > one hand to guide and steer the blade through the adhesive, and the > other hand to apply major force to the blade. Quite effective. > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/372653587648 > > Be sure to buy extra blades as they are damaged and/or wear out routinely. > > They also use a thin sharp blade on a vibratory tool, or a small thin > hook blade with a special cable handle for the tool itself, to cut the > adhesive. Pretty much a "power" version of the manual tool above. > > A visit to your local windshield replacement shop might be a useful to > see how the professionals make short work of cutting these automotive > urethane seals. > > Bill D. > > > On 4/12/2022 1:36 PM, (-Phil-) via EV wrote: > > You need a really thin blade, you just want to cut the adhesive, not the > > metal. I used one of these: > > https://amzn.to/3E1I6Wm > > > > With a blade like this: https://amzn.to/373V75P > > > > The tool oscillates really fast and slices through the adhesive like > > butter. You just run it down the side. > > > > On Mon, Apr 11, 2022 at 6:17 PM Jay Summet via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> > wrote: > > > >> I used pry-bars and screwdrivers & putty knifes on a 2013 leaf battery > >> that was glued together. Now that I know what is inside (and how to not > >> hit it), I'd use an air chisel. > >> > >> Jay > >> > >> On 4/11/22 21:01, (-Phil-) via EV wrote: > >>> FYI: I have opened the 60kWh LEAF packs, it can be done with a > vibrating > >>> multitool blade. Much easier than a Tesla pack! > >>> > >>> > > _______________________________________________ > Address messages to ev@lists.evdl.org > No other addresses in TO and CC fields > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > ARCHIVE: http://www.evdl.org/archive/ > LIST INFO: http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20220412/fb866a37/attachment.html> _______________________________________________ Address messages to ev@lists.evdl.org No other addresses in TO and CC fields UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub ARCHIVE: http://www.evdl.org/archive/ LIST INFO: http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
