David,
Lee sent me also a direct mail and there is a difference - he
indicated that relay 1 needs *TWO* small "NO" contacts, because indeed
with only 1 contact the relay 2 will keep its own coil powered from
the battery via its own contact.
So, the mail from Lee indicates that relay coil 2 gets power from the
output of the charger *through* the second NO contact of relay 1.
When you pull the AC power to the charger, relay 1 will lose coil
power and disconnect both its contacts: the charger is still connected
to the battery via relay 2 contact, but relay 2 coil is interrupted
from the charger output by relay 1 second contact, so relay 2 also
drops and the battery is totally isolated (both relay 1 and 2 contacts
open, so no leakage current)
Cor.

On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at 11:40 AM David Nelson via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
>
> On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 3:34 PM EV List Lackey via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> 
> wrote:
> >
> > It sounds like your charger has an electrolytic capacitor across its output.
> >
> > Could you add a precharging circuit across the contactor?
>
> I thought of this but wanted something as simple as possible. Of
> course, a diode has heat dissipation to consider and who knows how
> long it will last. I have more responses about this idea after Lee
> Hart's email below.
>
> I like Bill D's suggestion of the 5-pin connector for its simplicity.
> I just haven't found a 5 pin connector yet so I think I'll stay with
> the NEMA L6-20 I have and work on some sort of pre-charge.
>
> On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 5:11 PM Alan Arrison via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
> >
> > Wouldn't the voltage drop confuse the charger, especially when it gets
> > to the constant voltage point near end of charge?
>
> I need to verify what voltage the internal BMS starts to balance but I
> think it is still before the ending voltage the battery will see.
>
> On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 5:54 PM Matt Lacey via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
> >
> > The charger won't know about the voltage drop, it would just reduce the
> > CV voltage by 0.7V or so
> >
> > The bigger problem is the charger may not start, if there's no voltage
> > present on it's output.
>
> Many of these batteries' BMS will cut off the output so the voltage
> across the terminals is 0V. Because of this, the chargers need to
> attempt to charge even with 0V on the output. This is why I purchased
> the Dakota Lithium charger. I now wish I had hunted for a soft-start
> charger.
>
> On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 9:32 PM Cor van de Water
> <cor.vandewa...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > David,
> > Why are you unplugging the charger?
>
> I'm mounting the charger in the golf cart. It doesn't always go back
> to the same place on the campus it is used on so it needs to be able
> to charge wherever it is at. I have an extension cord with a NEMA
> L6-20 plug on the end so the extension cord isn't "borrowed" for other
> uses and can remain in the golf cart, and so the plug can handle more
> plug-unplug cycles. I also don't want a standard extension cord used
> in case the end is worn out and causes something to melt or catch
> fire. The smaller battery than the lead-acid pack leaves a nice
> storage space under the seat for it. Also, the documentation
> specifically states to not leave it plugged in and connected to the
> battery for more than 16-24 hours after the charge is finished. This
> is, I'm sure, just to make the charger cheaper to make. If your
> question was about why I'm disconnecting it from the battery pack,
> David Roden is correct. It is due to the constant 0.12A drain on the
> battery when it isn't hooked up to AC power.
>
> On Mon, Mar 21, 2022 at 10:08 AM Lee Hart <leeah...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi David,
> >
> > I'm emailing you directly because the EVDL no longer accepts posts from
> > Earthlink. I'm still around and reading it! I just can't post to the EVDL.
> >
> > It's fairly common for poorly designed chargers to put a constant load
> > on the battery. They need to monitor the battery voltage anyway, so it
> > saves money to "borrow" the battery voltage to also power the charger's
> > electronics. They assume that the charger will always be plugged in; so
> > it will be "maintaining" the battery once it is fully charged.
> >
> > David Roden had the right idea to fix this. Add a relay with a 120vac
> > coil, and a contact in series with the charger's output. When AC is
> > applied, it pulls in the relay, which connects the charger to the pack.
> >
> > But as he says, the output circuit of the charger must have a big filter
> > capacitor that draws a high peak current if you immediately close the
> > output relay. The fix for this is to include a "precharge" or "inrush"
> > limiter. The simplest way to do this is with TWO relays.
> >
> > Relay#1 is a small relay with a 120vac coil and a low-power NO (normally
> > open) contact. Its coil is across the AC input to the charger, so it
> > pulls in when the charger gets AC power. Its contact has a resistor in
> > series, connected between your pack and the charger output. The resistor
> > is chosen to provide 0.1 to 1 amp to "charge up" the output circuit
> > inside the charger. An old-style tungsten light bulb is a convenient
> > resistor, and also indicates that the circuit is working. :-)
> >
> > Relay#2 is a power relay, with a coil voltage to match your pack
> > voltage, and a contact good for 15 amps or more. If your golf cart has a
> > 48v pack, then use a relay with a 48v DC coil. Or, you can use a 24v DC
> > relay with a resistor in series with its coil so it sees 24v when "on".
> > Relay#2's coil (and its series resistor, if needed) connect across the
> > charger's output; so it will be "on" when the charger is operating. The
> > contact of relay#2 connects the battery pack to the charger output, thus
> > shorting out relay#1's contact and precharge resistor.
> >
> > Here's how it works: When the charger has no AC power, both relays are
> > off. When you connect AC to the charger, it also pulls in relay#1. Its
> > contact connects the precharge resistor from pack to to charger output,
> > thus gently charging up the charger's output capacitor and control
> > circuit. When the charger's output voltage gets high enough to start
> > charging, it also turns on relay#2, to short out the contact of relay#2
> > and its precharge resistor. From this point, normal charging takes
> > place, with no loss in a series diode.
> >
> > Hope this makes sense!
> > Lee Hart
>
> I think I follow what you are saying and if I do, this is simpler than
> finding a time delay relay. Let me see if I have it:
> 1) Charger and Relay #1 get AC power at the same time. The contacts of
> Relay #1 connect the precharge resistor.
> 2) The coil of Relay #2 is across the output of the charger. When the
> charger starts or the precharge increases the voltage sufficiently,
> Relay #2 pulls in, shorting out the precharge resistor. Hopefully
> there is a long enough delay in the charger starting up. I'll have to
> time this and see.
>
> Since Relay #2 is held in by the charger/battery voltage, what will
> release the relay when charging ends since the battery voltage will
> back feed the coil? I guess relay #1 could be a double pole with one
> pole in series with the coil of Relay #2.
>
> Thanks for the responses so far.
>
> David D. Nelson
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