I spin my motors before sending them out with a Constant voltage welder (mig) 
at various voltage /rpms.Also use the pulseing feature so rpms change all day 
and night for at least a week.of coarse this is after I seat the brushes with a 
seater stone avaible at most welding supply shops and at ww graingers.

Dennis Berube

Still with the QUICKEST and fastest drag racing motors

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Baker via EV <[email protected]>
To: Bill Dube <[email protected]>; Electric Vehicle Discussion List 
<[email protected]>
Sent: Sun, Feb 22, 2015 08:09 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Help! - Double motor failure!



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<pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt>Hey everyone, thanks for all the suggestions 
and help.  David, I verified
the drivetrain doesn't have any binds by jacking rear of the cart up and I
was able to spin the motor input spline by hand.  I was also able to move
the cart freely around the garage.  I was able to recover two brush springs
from the new motor, clean up the commutator with some fine grit on the
original and get it back in the cart.  It's alive again! I took for a
couple runs up the road and back, clean up some snowbanks with the pig with
the laptop attached to the controller.  Motor was barely warm to the touch
and the logs didn't show any sags or any other issues and the turbo option
was still unchecked.  There wan't a whole lot of snow to clear (all snow
that wasn't clear is now rock hard from the last storm that had freezing
rain at the end) so neither motor wasn't working super hard.  After looking
at the new motor again for a bit it starts to look clear something went
terribly wrong shortly after installation or it was damaged before it went
in.  I suspect it could have been dropped during shipping- the rotor just
floats inside the casing, only a small end bearing holds it in place before
installation.  That one brush that was torn off completely from it's
mounting seems to indicate this or something bound it up and snapped it
off.  We may be getting some more wet snow/ rain/ freezing rain before I
leave again so I hope I can test and check the motor again before I leave.
I still have some to do's like getting some thermal monitoring in place for
both motors and some ammeter monitoring like a Cycle Analyst.  I currently
only have a digital volt gauge so it's pretty light on displays.  Thanks
Bill for the tip to keep the motor from slow stalls I will watch my driving
habits and break in a new brush set or motor when I get some replacements.

Cheers
Dan

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 9:04 PM, Bill Dube via EV <<a 
href="mailto:[email protected]";>[email protected]</a>> wrote:

> Yes, a week continuous. If time permits, two weeks.
> On "forklift" style DC motors, the brushes will last for many, many years
> of operation. When run on ~12 volts at zero load for a week, you just start
> to get an a hint of curvature in a square-faced brush. Best to "pre-shape"
> the brushes with a curve that is close to the commutator diameter or it
> will take a looong time to break in the brushes.
>
> Bill D.
>
>
> On 2/21/2015 5:35 PM, Rush Dougherty via EV wrote:
>
>> Bill wrote -
>>
>>> Also, you really need to break in a motor under light load for quite
>>> some time
>>> before giving it maximum amps. I spin the motors using ~12 volts for
>>> about a
>>>
>> week
>>
>>> to break in the brushes.
>>>
>> Is that a week continuous?
>>
>> Rush
>> Tucson AZ
>>
>>
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>>
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