You're right. That's a better method. Self-drilling screws. The kind with their own drill bit tip. Just set the drill clutch really low.
C > On 08/19/2022 9:24 AM Leeward Rail via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > > Yup. That is the usual way. Using a self tapping screw is similar. > > Thanks! > > > Aug. 19, 2022 8:21:18 a.m. CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>: > > > > Video of mast conduit install: > > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avZHRIb7sJk > > > > C > > > > > > > On 08/19/2022 9:02 AM Nathan Post via > > CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > If you have internal halyards then you will need to leave > > > clearance at the halyard exits (and near the top of the mast to make sure > > > the halyards will not chafe on the end of the conduit (good idea to > > > smooth/round the top of the conduit before you stick it in. Also the > > > conduit has to fit past the compression tubes where the stays attach. I > > > think I used 1-1/2 in the back to the top of the mast and 1-1/4 in the > > > front to the spreaders when I did my mast on my 34' With larger size > > > coax and conductors it does fill up pretty quick and the pop rivets I > > > used leave a pin sticking into the conduit space so it is a good idea to > > > go larger if you can within reason. I am pretty sure that more than > > > 1-1/2 wouldn't have worked well with my internal halyards as some of them > > > exit toward the back of the mast. It can be a real challenge to rivet it > > > in place. I ended up having to drill two holes a few inches apart along > > > the mast next to each other and used a self tapping screw to tem porarily pull the conduit to the side of the mast before riveting the other. Then remove the screw and put in a second rivet. > > > > > > Nathan > > > S/V Wisper > > > C&C 34 > > > > > > > > > > >
