Just wanted to send a quick note to say thank you for all the wonderful advice in this thread.
Looks like i've got a decent project to keep me going until the habors open on May 1st! Thanks again, Lee C&C 29 MK.1 Lake Michigan On Tue, 13 Apr 2021 at 11:24, Dave S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Have stayed out of this A4 thread for a variety of reasons, however based > on plenty of work over many years with carbureted engines I second Bruce's > emphasis on making sure that the fuel supply and carb are verified as a > priority, before proceeding to other more complex causes. (steps 1-4) In > my own experience this is where the trouble usually lies in engines that > are not in regular use. Will also second the carb overhaul > recommendation.. Carb rebuild kids are usually cheap, the job is pretty > straightforward, and gaining confidence in and and familiarity with the > fuel system is well worthwhile. > > Dave 33-2 > > On Tue, 13 Apr 2021 at 08:44, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hi Lee, having had an Atomic 4 for 15 years, I can say the 2nd video >> sounds largely normal once you got it starte. So, it seems yo tell me >> compression is OK. The first one sounds a little rough, like a fuel >> issue. That could happen if the engine was run all the way out of fuel ans >> you had limited filtration of the gas. At any rate, out of an abundance of >> caution, I would do the following: >> >> 1. Get a compression gauge and check for even readings across all >> cylinders. >> 2. Clean the fuel strainer bowl. >> 3. Overhaul/clean the carb. You probably won't even need gaskets, and >> they're simple to do. Just be sure that you take photos as you take it >> apart and count the number of turns as you remove the adjustable jet(s). >> Tighten the counting the turns, and when you put them back in, go to tight >> and back out the same number of turns. >> 4. If you don’t have one, put in a fuel filter/water separator. It >> doesn't need to be a racor, one with a spin on filter (about $25) is fine. >> 5. Convert to electronic ignition. Moyer has a kit, but the same model >> is available elsewhere. Replace the cap and rotor while you're in there, >> as well as the plugs, which are Champion RJ12Cs. The cap, rotor and plugs >> are available at auto parts stores once you look up the Delco numbers. >> 6. Replace the raw water impeller. If the engine sounds weird to you, >> it may be the engine isn't pumping water through it like it used to. That >> is a wear item and should be replaced every 2 years anyway. >> 7. Add StaBil and SeaFoam to your fuel. A dose of Marvel Mystery oil >> doesn't hurt either. >> 8. Carry a spare coil. Once you go to electronic ignition, you'll >> probably never need it, but it is a potential point of failure. >> >> They're very dependable engines once you know what makes them tick (or >> not). >> >> Bruce Whitmore >> 1994 C&C 37/40+ >> "Astralis" >> Madeira Beach, FL >> (847) 404-5092 >> >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
