Hi Don,
I wasn't there, but a crewman aboard the 99 told me the owner has a long 
rivalry with the J-109 which was flying an assymetric on a sprit, also.  He 
told me the 99 is for sale because the owner bought a J-109 cause it's faster 
upwind and points higher.   I find the video quite exciting with so many 
different boats so close together.  The essence of racing.

Chuck  

>     On 07/21/2020 12:27 PM Donald Kern via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Chuck,
>     Good demonstration of what happens when you decide to sail a smaller boat 
> thru the lee of a bigger boat.  Especially dead downwind with a A-chute and 
> the bigger  has a symmetric chute.   Unless the A-chute was in restricted 
> water or closing the mark they should have been maxing their VMG by tacking 
> downwind. 
>     Brings back memories of those blue and gold chutes - use to skipper the 
> wood and first glass NA 44 yawls. Preferred the wood, they were faster; had 
> no engines, less weight and drag.  Bristol YC and Herreshoff Marine Museum 
> sponsor the boat school's 44s each June for the last 5yrs (missed this year 
> of Offshore Training because of CORVID 19).
> 
>     Beat Army !!
>      
>     Don Kern
>     Fireball C&C35 Mk2
>     Bristol, RI
> 
>     On 7/21/2020 10:55 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
> 
>         > >         I focus on the sailing ability in selecting a boat.  If 
> you sail in a steady high winds, go big.  But if you are more like the rest 
> of us and have low wind predominantly, I would steer toward the smallest, 
> lightest model C&C that still has just enough interior to accommodate my 
> family.  Smaller, lighter, hulls move first as the wind builds from a calm 
> while heavier boats struggle until the wind gets up over 10 knots.  It takes 
> much less wind to move a 10,000# boat than a 20,000# one.  Even less to move 
> a 5000# boat like a 27 footer which has standing headroom and can be 
> trailered home for the winter.  They will all sail to hullspeed once the wind 
> reaches about 12 knots and then the longer waterline boat has a speed 
> advantage, but under 10 knots which is predominantly what we sail in, the 
> lighter boats win and are easier to singlehand and dock, etc.  Check out this 
> video of a C&C 99, a 32 footer catching a J109 and two Navy 44 footers in a 
> race.
> >         https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBKifuS60Go
> > 
> >         I also prefer the C&C 34/36 model as I own the racing version w vee 
> > berths (removable for racing) and settee berths, pilot beths, a full width 
> > aft berth and two pipe berths.  We rate faster than the 40 and the bigger 
> > sister, the 37/40 rates faster still, though I think the 34/36 was an 
> > improvement over it. 
> >         Check out the brochures on Stu's cncphotoalbum.com
> >          
> > 
> >         Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C&C 34R Pasadena, Md
> > 
> >           
> > 
> >             > > >             On 07/21/2020 9:55 AM Nathan Post via 
> > CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > >             Welcome Jeff,
> > > 
> > >             Something to keep in mind is that a 40 is almost twice as 
> > > much boat compared to a 34 or 35 (18000+ lbs rather than 10000 or so. 
> > > Everything is bigger, heavier and more expensive.   And it can also get 
> > > more complicated to sail - does it have running backstays?  I think that 
> > > a 38 such as Ocean Phoenix does have running backstays - not sure about 
> > > the 40.  My 34 does not.  Not a big deal for long passages, but we tend 
> > > to go out to tool around for an evening tacking and jibing a dozen times 
> > > in the process or go sail around the islands outside of Marblehead and 
> > > Beverly and I would prefer to sail rather than motor whenever possible if 
> > > there is any wind (which is why it is nice to have a light C&C that will 
> > > move in light air).  Dockage, hauling and winter storage all scale with 
> > > length too.  If offshore passages are your plan then the bigger boat is 
> > > likely a better choice and you want to pay attention to the stability 
> > > numbers as well, and a C&C may not be the right choice at all (although I 
> > > am sure there are those on this list who would differ).
> > > 
> > >             Any 30-40 ft keelboat boat in the under $20000 sale price 
> > > range is going to need a lot of TLC, fiberglass work, paint, rigging 
> > > work, sails (likely at some point) and replacements over the coming 
> > > years. We have a 34 KCB and it is a nice size for us and is easy for my 
> > > wife and me to handle (we don't have or fly a spin although I am looking 
> > > to add an asymmetrical at some point). If I was to do it again I might 
> > > look for a 34+ or 34/36 which is a little larger and has a newer style 
> > > interior layout with a separate shower from the head I believe.  While 
> > > that would have been more money up front, but as I put 10+k into 
> > > improvements plus lots of time each year it would not have made a big 
> > > difference in the long run.  My boat budget ends up around $20/year, 
> > > about half of which is slip, hauling, winter storage and insurance, and 
> > > the other half is maintenance and upgrades.  The first year we had the 
> > > sails cleaned and repaired for $600, had the prop rebuilt for $500, new 
> > > water heater, new head plumbing, new bilge pumps, new foam for the 
> > > cushions (which I restuffed myself, etc.), etc. etc..  Last year we got 
> > > new cruising sails for $6k and some new lines, new water pump, inflatable 
> > > life jackets, etc..  This year it was quite a bit more (I haven't kept 
> > > track) because we had the rod-rigging re-ended and needed a new furler 
> > > and I repaired soft spots in the deck, repainted and refit the entire 
> > > deck and included replacing winches with self tailers and added a custom 
> > > bow roller I designed and sent out to a machine shop along with a new 
> > > anchor and rode.  I am glad she is only 34ft long rather than 40!  Can 
> > > you do it for a bit less - yes likely - but it is also nice to be able to 
> > > improve things and make them better suit your needs and be prepared for 
> > > the furler that breaks and isn't repairable type expenses.  Slip and such 
> > > are probably a bit less up in Maine than in the Boston area, but it all 
> > > adds up.
> > > 
> > >             Actually from my experience, and what I have read/learned 
> > > since, you are much better off spending more money now to get a boat that 
> > > the previous owner put a lot into upgrading and fixing then a previously 
> > > neglected boat like I did.  Like you we wanted to get into a 30+ ft 
> > > cruising boat at the low end of the price point (we paid $7500 for Wisper 
> > > in 2018) and I do enjoy working on it almost as much as sailing so there 
> > > is that.  Initially this approach is tempting with lots of old neglected 
> > > boats in the market, but I wouldn’t likely do that again now that I am 
> > > into "big boat" ownership.  I would likely still get a 40 year old boat 
> > > again if/when it comes time to upgrade, but I would look for one that 
> > > someone else did a lot of upgrading on recently and happily pay more for 
> > > it (there will still be plenty to do and change over the years).  On the 
> > > other hand, I am learning a ton as I try things on this boat and learn 
> > > what I like and don't like and I am not sure if we would have bought a 
> > > boat at all if I had proposed a larger budget to my wife initially.  And 
> > > there is also satisfaction in bringing a good boat back from the brink of 
> > > the scrap yard.
> > > 
> > >             Anyway, that is my two cents.  Good luck!
> > > 
> > >             Nathan
> > >             - -
> > >             Nathan Post
> > >             S/V Wisper
> > >             1981 C&C 34 KCB
> > >             Lynn MA
> > >             _______________________________________________
> > > 
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> > > 
> > >         > > 
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> > 
> >     >     _______________________________________________
> 
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