As for epoxy and warmth: You can heat the inside of the boat and heat gun the penetration. Keep the resin warm before hand or even heat slightly (probably not more than 80°F). Use the fast (or cold weather) hardener.
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Oct 30, 2019, 10:19 AM Doug Welch via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > We do a lot more cruising than racing, so while I appreciate the value of > these goodies, I would rather spend my boat bucks on other things. I may > eventually put in a N2K backbone, however at least initially I can get by > without it. I have already integrated my Standard Horizon VHF/AIS receiver > via 0183 and the sonar/depth/temp can plug directly in without N2K. I don't > see the need for the fancy sonar, in truth any sonar but Garmin seems to > almost throw it in for free so why not? > > Cheers, > Doug > > On Wednesday, October 30, 2019, 09:55:02 a.m. EDT, Josh Muckley via > CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Don't forget that the boat speed also feeds into the wind instrument as it > calculates true wind speed and direction. I find this helpful for planning > sail sets and anticipating the differences at different points of sail. > You can compare true wind conditions to the poplars of your boat. If you > get fancy and feed the true wind into a polar computer or some newer > chartplotters like the b&g zeus, they will tell you when to tack, target > speed, and give you laylines. Cool stuff but obviously getting a bit > removed from the purist's sailing. > > That's good to know about the troubles with a thru-hull depth sounder. > What about fancy forward scan and side scan. Consider those? You are > going with N2K right? > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Wed, Oct 30, 2019, 9:43 AM Doug Welch via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Thanks Josh, > I am doing the work over the winter layup in Toronto so days above 5 > degrees that epoxy requires to cure can be few and far between. I am hoping > to skip filling the existing hole with thickened epoxy by using an > appropriately sized plug on the hold saw. To answer your questions, I am > just going with temp and depth as it's simpler, less expensive and gives me > sonar on the same transducer. I know having a speed transducer is useful > for determining current, however I would rather have the sonar (for > anchoring not fishing). A friend has a shoot through the hull depth > transducer on his boat and it seems very flakey. He sails in Georgian Bay > where shoals and rocks abound, his transducer always seems to give up when > we need it most. > > > Cheers, > > Doug > > > On Wednesday, October 30, 2019, 09:23:59 a.m. EDT, Josh Muckley via > CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > As I understand it, that location forward of the keel was expected by the > designers to be the location for the speed and depth transducers. As such > the hull is solid in that location. > > If you drill it out and find otherwise then a typical removing of the core > while leaving the inner and outer skins in place would be appropriate. Dig > the core back as far as possible. With a 52mm hole, angling a drill bit > and other various implements should be pretty easy. Back fill the cavity > with thickened epoxy, allow to cure, and redrill the 52mm hole as needed. > Install the transducer with 5200. > > You will most likely find that the original was bedded with 5200 and will > not come free. There are products available that are supposed to > loosen/weaken 5200. Try them first but it may still take days of soaking. > If that fails then a sanding drum on a drill can make pretty short work of > the plastic and 5200. For the new hole, a hole saw typically needs the > drill bit to center and stabilize the drum but with a 32mm hole already > there it can be difficult. Create a stabilizing core by getting a hole saw > that fits the existing hole (either in the hull or in the existing > transducer fitting) and drill a plug from a 2x4. Now change the saw to > your 52mm and slide the wood plug over the drill bit. The plug will act as > a centering guide as you drill the new hole. Depending on the size of the > old fittings this may be sufficient and pre-removal may be unnecessary. > > I find biological growth to fowl my speedwheel constantly during the > summer months. I'm frequently removing the speedwheel with the boat in the > water resulting in a small geyser. To avoid this I am seriously > considering an ultrasonic speed sensor. Have you considered this > yourself? I would like even more if I could find one that was able to be > glued to the inner hull and simply shoot through. I know some depth > transducers are made this way but speed is a different story. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > On Wed, Oct 30, 2019, 8:55 AM Doug Welch via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > It's time to replace the B and G Network Quad instruments on my 33-2. This > means replacing the old 32 mm paddle wheel speed transducer with a 52 mm > airmar transducer. I understand that the 33-2 is partially cored hull, so > my question is the area where the transducers are currently located cored. > They are located in the locker at the foot of the vberth. Any other advice > on removing the old and installing the new is gratefully received. I went > with a Garmin Echomap plus cv75 and sonar,depth, temperature transducer. > > Cheers, > Doug Welch > Celtic Knot > 33-2 c/b > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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