As for epoxy and warmth:  You can heat the inside of the boat and heat gun
the penetration.  Keep the resin warm before hand or even heat slightly
(probably not more than 80°F).  Use the fast (or cold weather) hardener.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Wed, Oct 30, 2019, 10:19 AM Doug Welch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We do a lot more cruising than racing, so while I appreciate the value of
> these goodies, I would rather spend my boat bucks on other things. I may
> eventually put in a N2K backbone, however at least initially I can get by
> without it. I have already integrated my Standard Horizon VHF/AIS receiver
> via 0183 and the sonar/depth/temp can plug directly in without N2K. I don't
> see the need for the fancy sonar, in truth any sonar but Garmin seems to
> almost throw it in for free so why not?
>
> Cheers,
> Doug
>
> On Wednesday, October 30, 2019, 09:55:02 a.m. EDT, Josh Muckley via
> CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Don't forget that the boat speed also feeds into the wind instrument as it
> calculates true wind speed and direction.  I find this helpful for planning
> sail sets and anticipating the differences at different points of sail.
> You can compare true wind conditions to the poplars of your boat.  If you
> get fancy and feed the true wind into a polar computer or some newer
> chartplotters like the b&g zeus, they will tell you when to tack, target
> speed, and give you laylines.  Cool stuff but obviously getting a bit
> removed from the purist's sailing.
>
> That's good to know about the troubles with a thru-hull depth sounder.
> What about fancy forward scan and side scan.  Consider those?  You are
> going with N2K right?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Wed, Oct 30, 2019, 9:43 AM Doug Welch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Josh,
>       I am doing the work over the winter layup in Toronto so days above 5
> degrees that epoxy requires to cure can be few and far between. I am hoping
> to skip filling the existing hole with thickened epoxy by using an
> appropriately sized plug on the hold saw.  To answer your questions, I am
> just going with temp and depth as it's simpler, less expensive and gives me
> sonar on the same transducer. I know having a speed transducer is useful
> for determining current, however I would rather have the sonar (for
> anchoring not fishing). A friend has a shoot through the hull depth
> transducer on his boat and it seems very flakey. He sails in Georgian Bay
> where shoals and rocks abound, his transducer always seems to give up when
> we need it most.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Doug
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 30, 2019, 09:23:59 a.m. EDT, Josh Muckley via
> CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> As I understand it, that location forward of the keel was expected by the
> designers to be the location for the speed and depth transducers.  As such
> the hull is solid in that location.
>
> If you drill it out and find otherwise then a typical removing of the core
> while leaving the inner and outer skins in place would be appropriate.  Dig
> the core back as far as possible.  With a 52mm hole, angling a drill bit
> and other various implements should be pretty easy.  Back fill the cavity
> with thickened epoxy, allow to cure, and redrill the 52mm hole as needed.
> Install the transducer with 5200.
>
> You will most likely find that the original was bedded with 5200 and will
> not come free.  There are products available that are supposed to
> loosen/weaken 5200.  Try them first but it may still take days of soaking.
> If that fails then a sanding drum on a drill can make pretty short work of
> the plastic and 5200.  For the new hole, a hole saw typically needs the
> drill bit to center and stabilize the drum but with a 32mm hole already
> there it can be difficult.  Create a stabilizing core by getting a hole saw
> that fits the existing hole (either in the hull or in the existing
> transducer fitting) and drill a plug from a 2x4.  Now change the saw to
> your 52mm and slide the wood plug over the drill bit.  The plug will act as
> a centering guide as you drill the new hole.  Depending on the size of the
> old fittings this may be sufficient and pre-removal may be unnecessary.
>
> I find biological growth to fowl my speedwheel constantly during the
> summer months.  I'm frequently removing the speedwheel with the boat in the
> water resulting in a small geyser.  To avoid this I am seriously
> considering an ultrasonic speed sensor.  Have you considered this
> yourself?  I would like even more if I could find one that was able to be
> glued to the inner hull and simply shoot through.  I know some depth
> transducers are made this way but speed is a different story.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 30, 2019, 8:55 AM Doug Welch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> It's time to replace the B and G Network Quad instruments on my 33-2. This
> means replacing the old 32 mm paddle wheel speed transducer with a 52 mm
> airmar transducer. I understand that the 33-2 is partially cored hull, so
> my question is the area where the transducers are currently located cored.
> They are located in the locker at the foot of the vberth. Any other advice
> on removing the old and installing the new is gratefully received. I went
> with a Garmin Echomap plus cv75 and sonar,depth, temperature transducer.
>
> Cheers,
> Doug Welch
> Celtic Knot
> 33-2 c/b
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