Here's my update: I got a hold of stainless steal zerk fittings and screwed one into the hole the grease cap came out of. After trying to press in grease tough the zerk fitting pushed out. The pressure stripped what was left of the rusted threads. There seems to be enough grease in there for the season. Though I need to figure out a longer term solution. Drilling and tapping a new hole is an interesting idea. I am not about to drop the rudder for this and the boat is back in the water. The first race of the season was last night.
Thanks for all the input on this. There should be a simple enough way to get a fitting to stay in there, and the next level would be to add a hose, though with a metal extension tube on your grease gun it’s easy enough to get too. Any ideas on glassing in the fitting? Probably not a good idea. Thanks again. Matthew > On Apr 28, 2019, at 1:39 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hi Rick, > > You're method makes sense. > > > > I dropped the rudder for other reasons; to check the shaft for crevice > corrosion and seal the joint where the shaft exits the fiberglass shell w > flexepoxy, straighten the quadrant, fit a better key, and add the grease > fittings. I dropped it alone, but needed help to lift it back in. > Afterwards, I had a lot more confidence in the boat because the steering > system was no longer a mystery. Hard to believe that was twelve years ago. > > > > Chuck S > > > > Chuck > > > >> On April 28, 2019 at 12:59 PM RickC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> The second that the tip of the drill bit goes from fiberglass/Delran to >> stainless you will feel it and know you’re done drilling. And is a little >> scratch or divot really going to hurt the 3” schedule 80 stainless pipe (or >> 3” stainless bar stock) the rudder shaft is made from? (With a carbon fiber >> shaft I’d definitely drop the rudder.) >> >> >> It’s probably better if the rudder is out, but I’m not sure it makes a >> significant difference. Having enough thickness of the fiberglass/Delran to >> accommodate the tap and the threaded length of the zerk was a bigger concern >> for me. But the fiberglass tube on my 38 (no Delran bushings) was closer to >> ½” thich than ¼”, so no problems. >> >> >> Rick Brass >> >> Washington, NC >> >> >> >> >> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of CHARLES >> SCHEAFFER via CnC-List >> Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2019 9:45 AM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER <cscheaf...@comcast.net> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Squeeking C&C 35-3 >> >> >> Hi Bruce, >> You didn't state if you drilled the fiberglass casing with the rudder still >> in the boat? >> How did you drill through the delrin bearings without drilling into the SS >> rudder post? >> >> C >> >> >> >> > > > >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >
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