Hi Rick,

You're method makes sense.   


I dropped the rudder for other reasons; to check the shaft for crevice 
corrosion and seal the joint where the shaft exits the fiberglass shell w 
flexepoxy, straighten the quadrant, fit a better key, and add the grease 
fittings.  I dropped it alone, but needed help to lift it back in.  Afterwards, 
I had a lot more confidence in the boat because the steering system was no 
longer a mystery.  Hard to believe that was twelve years ago.


Chuck S


Chuck


> On April 28, 2019 at 12:59 PM RickC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>     The second that the tip of the drill bit goes from fiberglass/Delran to 
> stainless you will feel it and know you’re done drilling. And is a little 
> scratch or divot really going to hurt the 3” schedule 80 stainless pipe (or 
> 3” stainless bar stock) the rudder shaft is made from? (With a carbon fiber 
> shaft I’d definitely drop the rudder.)
> 
>      
> 
>     It’s probably better if the rudder is out, but I’m not sure it makes a 
> significant difference. Having enough thickness of the fiberglass/Delran to 
> accommodate the tap and the threaded length of the zerk was a bigger concern 
> for me. But the fiberglass tube on my 38 (no Delran bushings) was closer to 
> ½” thich than ¼”, so no problems.
> 
>      
> 
>     Rick Brass
> 
>     Washington, NC
> 
>      
> 
>      
> 
>      
> 
>     From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
>     Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2019 9:45 AM
>     To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>     Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
>     Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Squeeking C&C 35-3
> 
>      
> 
>     Hi Bruce,
>     You didn't state if you drilled the fiberglass casing with the rudder 
> still in the boat?
>     How did you drill through the delrin bearings without drilling into the 
> SS rudder post?
> 
>     C
> 
> 
> 
>      
> 


 

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