Captain Tolley’s creeping crack cure around the screw heads. Anywhere really like the toe rail too. Easier than a total rebedding and worked well on Alanna. Good stuff
On Sun, Dec 16, 2018 at 7:25 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > It's been raining for 3 days now and I checked both the port and stbd > tracks and their machine screws. There is no evidence of leakage. When I > get time I'll probably still rebed the port track but in the foreseeable > future it appears that I fixed the leaks on both sides. Port side simply > by retorquing the screws and stbd side by rebedding. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > On Thu, Dec 13, 2018, 11:22 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I got the stbd track back on just in time for rain tomorrow. I never >> thought I would use an entire roll of butyl but I'm getting close. If I >> had pulled the port track I would have been in trouble. I couldn't >> understand exactly why the OEM used 3" machine screws instead of 2" but >> decided not to chance it by changing things up. I did cut 3 tricky ones >> shorter. The OEM washers seemed small so I upsized to that which would >> just fit. And instead of standard nuts and lock washers I changed to >> nylocks. >> >> Whatever sealant was previously used, I found that it was slightly >> soluble in isopropyl alcohol. I was not meticulous in removing all the >> residue since butyl sticks to everything. A 3/4" butyl would have probably >> filled the track perfectly but with the 1/2" it was easy to lay one side up >> against the machine screws, then down the other side. It overlapped making >> a really nice bead down the center. >> >> In hind sight, 2" screws would have been sufficient. Since getting the >> washer and nut on the exposed stud was synonymous with playing the game >> "Operation" I used tef-gel to stick the washers to the nut driver. I could >> quickly catch a thread or 2 to capture the washer and move to the next >> stud. Once all the nuts were preped I would come back with a deep socket. >> Since so much of the stud hung down I decided to use a drill and adapter to >> tighten the nuts. I started with the first nut and all seemed well except >> that once I had applied the requisite torque I realized that the screw was >> still loose in the hole. I tried to loosen it but no luck. I've >> experienced galling in the past, particularly with nylocks. I should >> have expected and prevented it. I didn't expect it on the first screw and >> chalked it up to having used the drill. I moved on with only hand tools >> but soon had a second nut seize. It was at this point I decided to remove >> all of the nuts that had been preped to capture the washers and add a dab >> of tef-gel to the nut. After this the rest of the screws went smoothly and >> torqued to 10ft-lbs. >> >> The 2 seized bolts were now a new problem. I found that I could push >> them out about and inch. This facilitated grabbing them with vice grips. >> With one person holding the vice grips and one person on the 1/2" drive >> rachet it was still a pretty good effort getting them to break. I was able >> to withdraw them, wrap butyl on new screws, and reinsert. Since the track >> is hollow, I tried to position the butyl at the penetration area on the >> screw (about 1/2" from the head). Fortunately these 2 screws are not in or >> near wooden cabinets, and I have very easy access. If leaks occur it will >> be easy to detect, they won't hurt anything, and repair should be easy. >> >> I keep you posted as to how the port and stbd sides compare now that one >> is replaced and one is simply tightened. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> >> On Tue, Dec 11, 2018, 10:10 PM Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> Alright 37/40 owners, >>> >>> Anybody ever remove the tracks for the adjustable jib sheet leads? We >>> detected some water leaking around the fasteners (in the aft berth, stbd >>> closet and cabinet). I was initially concerned that the deck area might be >>> cored and that leakage was going to mean rot. >>> >>> I removed some of the bolts this afternoon. Most of the nuts weren't >>> even tight and the backing washers seem a little inadequate. The first >>> difficulty was finding a socket deep enough for the exposed stud. Is seems >>> that the machine screws are about 1 inch too long. I suspect that this was >>> to help engage each bolt and curve the track. Anyone have other theories >>> for the extra length? >>> >>> I probed around with a drill bit and was pleasantly surprised to find >>> that the deck appears to be solid glass. I was disappointed to find that >>> at least 2, and more likely 3, of the 30 screws are obstructed by the >>> headliner. 2 are in cabinets where cutting out headliner material will be >>> irrelevant. 1 is against the aft bulkhead on the forward side. >>> >>> I believe that the original bedding material was 4200 or 5200. It is >>> already proving difficult to unseat the aft section of track where I've >>> removed the bolts. I'm torn as to whether or not to proceed or just >>> reassemble and live with the minor leaks. I'd probably be quick to live >>> with simply re-bedding to bolts accept that I can't access the deck >>> hole/deck surface without removing the track. The track has a hollow >>> channel and I suspect that water accumulates in the hollow where it is then >>> able to wick down the threads of each fastener. If I'm able to remove the >>> track I'll be able to easily apply bed-it butyl tape to the track and >>> fasteners. I'll also be able to ensure that the holes in the deck are >>> counter sunk. >>> >>> Anybody have and further thoughts, ideas, or experience? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Josh Muckley >>> S/V Sea Hawk >>> 1989 C&C 37+ >>> Solomons, MD >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > -- Sent from Gmail Mobile
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