Josh: Maybe I missed it but what did you use to seal the threads of the new bolts?
Bob Bob Boyer s/v Rainy Days C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) (Presently in Charleston SC for the winter) blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com email: dainyr...@icloud.com > On Dec 13, 2018, at 11:32 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I used to use nylon lock nuts for almost everything – until I had a couple > big ones seize up. I’m much more selective these days. > > From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2018 11:21 PM > To: C&C List > Cc: Josh Muckley > Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+, Removing the adjustable jib sheet tracks > > I got the stbd track back on just in time for rain tomorrow. I never thought > I would use an entire roll of butyl but I'm getting close. If I had pulled > the port track I would have been in trouble. I couldn't understand exactly > why the OEM used 3" machine screws instead of 2" but decided not to chance it > by changing things up. I did cut 3 tricky ones shorter. The OEM washers > seemed small so I upsized to that which would just fit. And instead of > standard nuts and lock washers I changed to nylocks. > > Whatever sealant was previously used, I found that it was slightly soluble in > isopropyl alcohol. I was not meticulous in removing all the residue since > butyl sticks to everything. A 3/4" butyl would have probably filled the > track perfectly but with the 1/2" it was easy to lay one side up against the > machine screws, then down the other side. It overlapped making a really nice > bead down the center. > > In hind sight, 2" screws would have been sufficient. Since getting the > washer and nut on the exposed stud was synonymous with playing the game > "Operation" I used tef-gel to stick the washers to the nut driver. I could > quickly catch a thread or 2 to capture the washer and move to the next stud. > Once all the nuts were preped I would come back with a deep socket. Since so > much of the stud hung down I decided to use a drill and adapter to tighten > the nuts. I started with the first nut and all seemed well except that once > I had applied the requisite torque I realized that the screw was still loose > in the hole. I tried to loosen it but no luck. I've experienced galling in > the past, particularly with nylocks. I should have expected and prevented > it. I didn't expect it on the first screw and chalked it up to having used > the drill. I moved on with only hand tools but soon had a second nut seize. > It was at this point I decided to remove all of the nuts that had been preped > to capture the washers and add a dab of tef-gel to the nut. After this the > rest of the screws went smoothly and torqued to 10ft-lbs. > > The 2 seized bolts were now a new problem. I found that I could push them > out about and inch. This facilitated grabbing them with vice grips. With > one person holding the vice grips and one person on the 1/2" drive rachet it > was still a pretty good effort getting them to break. I was able to withdraw > them, wrap butyl on new screws, and reinsert. Since the track is hollow, I > tried to position the butyl at the penetration area on the screw (about 1/2" > from the head). Fortunately these 2 screws are not in or near wooden > cabinets, and I have very easy access. If leaks occur it will be easy to > detect, they won't hurt anything, and repair should be easy. > > I keep you posted as to how the port and stbd sides compare now that one is > replaced and one is simply tightened. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > >> On Tue, Dec 11, 2018, 10:10 PM Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote: >> Alright 37/40 owners, >> >> Anybody ever remove the tracks for the adjustable jib sheet leads? We >> detected some water leaking around the fasteners (in the aft berth, stbd >> closet and cabinet). I was initially concerned that the deck area might be >> cored and that leakage was going to mean rot. >> >> I removed some of the bolts this afternoon. Most of the nuts weren't even >> tight and the backing washers seem a little inadequate. The first >> difficulty was finding a socket deep enough for the exposed stud. Is seems >> that the machine screws are about 1 inch too long. I suspect that this was >> to help engage each bolt and curve the track. Anyone have other theories >> for the extra length? >> >> I probed around with a drill bit and was pleasantly surprised to find that >> the deck appears to be solid glass. I was disappointed to find that at >> least 2, and more likely 3, of the 30 screws are obstructed by the >> headliner. 2 are in cabinets where cutting out headliner material will be >> irrelevant. 1 is against the aft bulkhead on the forward side. >> >> I believe that the original bedding material was 4200 or 5200. It is >> already proving difficult to unseat the aft section of track where I've >> removed the bolts. I'm torn as to whether or not to proceed or just >> reassemble and live with the minor leaks. I'd probably be quick to live >> with simply re-bedding to bolts accept that I can't access the deck >> hole/deck surface without removing the track. The track has a hollow >> channel and I suspect that water accumulates in the hollow where it is then >> able to wick down the threads of each fastener. If I'm able to remove the >> track I'll be able to easily apply bed-it butyl tape to the track and >> fasteners. I'll also be able to ensure that the holes in the deck are >> counter sunk. >> >> Anybody have and further thoughts, ideas, or experience? >> >> Thanks, >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. 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