I used to use nylon lock nuts for almost everything – until I had a couple big ones seize up. I’m much more selective these days.
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2018 11:21 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+, Removing the adjustable jib sheet tracks I got the stbd track back on just in time for rain tomorrow. I never thought I would use an entire roll of butyl but I'm getting close. If I had pulled the port track I would have been in trouble. I couldn't understand exactly why the OEM used 3" machine screws instead of 2" but decided not to chance it by changing things up. I did cut 3 tricky ones shorter. The OEM washers seemed small so I upsized to that which would just fit. And instead of standard nuts and lock washers I changed to nylocks. Whatever sealant was previously used, I found that it was slightly soluble in isopropyl alcohol. I was not meticulous in removing all the residue since butyl sticks to everything. A 3/4" butyl would have probably filled the track perfectly but with the 1/2" it was easy to lay one side up against the machine screws, then down the other side. It overlapped making a really nice bead down the center. In hind sight, 2" screws would have been sufficient. Since getting the washer and nut on the exposed stud was synonymous with playing the game "Operation" I used tef-gel to stick the washers to the nut driver. I could quickly catch a thread or 2 to capture the washer and move to the next stud. Once all the nuts were preped I would come back with a deep socket. Since so much of the stud hung down I decided to use a drill and adapter to tighten the nuts. I started with the first nut and all seemed well except that once I had applied the requisite torque I realized that the screw was still loose in the hole. I tried to loosen it but no luck. I've experienced galling in the past, particularly with nylocks. I should have expected and prevented it. I didn't expect it on the first screw and chalked it up to having used the drill. I moved on with only hand tools but soon had a second nut seize. It was at this point I decided to remove all of the nuts that had been preped to capture the washers and add a dab of tef-gel to the nut. After this the rest of the screws went smoothly and torqued to 10ft-lbs. The 2 seized bolts were now a new problem. I found that I could push them out about and inch. This facilitated grabbing them with vice grips. With one person holding the vice grips and one person on the 1/2" drive rachet it was still a pretty good effort getting them to break. I was able to withdraw them, wrap butyl on new screws, and reinsert. Since the track is hollow, I tried to position the butyl at the penetration area on the screw (about 1/2" from the head). Fortunately these 2 screws are not in or near wooden cabinets, and I have very easy access. If leaks occur it will be easy to detect, they won't hurt anything, and repair should be easy. I keep you posted as to how the port and stbd sides compare now that one is replaced and one is simply tightened. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Dec 11, 2018, 10:10 PM Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote: Alright 37/40 owners, Anybody ever remove the tracks for the adjustable jib sheet leads? We detected some water leaking around the fasteners (in the aft berth, stbd closet and cabinet). I was initially concerned that the deck area might be cored and that leakage was going to mean rot. I removed some of the bolts this afternoon. Most of the nuts weren't even tight and the backing washers seem a little inadequate. The first difficulty was finding a socket deep enough for the exposed stud. Is seems that the machine screws are about 1 inch too long. I suspect that this was to help engage each bolt and curve the track. Anyone have other theories for the extra length? I probed around with a drill bit and was pleasantly surprised to find that the deck appears to be solid glass. I was disappointed to find that at least 2, and more likely 3, of the 30 screws are obstructed by the headliner. 2 are in cabinets where cutting out headliner material will be irrelevant. 1 is against the aft bulkhead on the forward side. I believe that the original bedding material was 4200 or 5200. It is already proving difficult to unseat the aft section of track where I've removed the bolts. I'm torn as to whether or not to proceed or just reassemble and live with the minor leaks. I'd probably be quick to live with simply re-bedding to bolts accept that I can't access the deck hole/deck surface without removing the track. The track has a hollow channel and I suspect that water accumulates in the hollow where it is then able to wick down the threads of each fastener. If I'm able to remove the track I'll be able to easily apply bed-it butyl tape to the track and fasteners. I'll also be able to ensure that the holes in the deck are counter sunk. Anybody have and further thoughts, ideas, or experience? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
