Jim:

Running the hot water for 10 or 15 minutes should get rid of any air bubble in 
the water system but I don't think this is the problem.

There should be a check valve in the high-pressure water line to separate the 
cold water supply from the hot water from the tank--check the functioning of 
this check valve.  (Refer to Raritan water heater installation instructions for 
more info on this check valve.)

Another thing you might want to check is the accumulator tank.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 

> On Oct 22, 2018, at 2:21 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out. 
> A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve on 
> our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump acts 
> very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds it is 
> obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I open the 
> hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump kicks in, 
> whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition, when I open 
> the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very hot water for 
> the first 10-15 seconds.
> Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it 
> didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the tank 
> somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to reach 
> pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open.
> Any bright ideas on how I might fix this? 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
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