Hi Brian,
From your description posted a while ago, you do not have a system full of air. Nor do you have a filter full of air. You have at most a few inches of air in the tank pick-up & hose rune. Is this still the case? Isn't this Yanmar a self-bleeding version once it's running? BTW, copper washers as easily annealed using a propane torch. Google for the method. Then they are reusable. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 08:22 AM 5/6/2018, you wrote:
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0003_01D3E52C.7D8F9580" Content-Language: en-us Josh, nice videos. The priming bulb would be great to have to facilitate this process. May install one next time I change the fuel filters and am not under time pressure to get the boat launched   Am still on the hard over an hourâs drive away with an early Thursday AM launch time. Can the seal washers from McMaster be tightened multiple times? Unlike the Yanmar copper washers   Do you have specific seal washers at McMaster that work in the Yanmar fuel system? Have replaced the 8 and 12 mm Yanmar washers when replacing the fuel filter housing. A âprofessionalâ mechanic had over tightened the supply banjo bolt stripping the threads. Found this suggestion on line and not sure if it makes sense; not sure if this would force the air past / through the injectors leave the system fully primed.  Do not want to cause more problems: âIf your fuel system is now filled with air, I would try the following. Engage the decompression levers, close the cooling water thru hull, pull the engine stop, and then spin the engine using the starter. Hopefully that will pull fuel through the system and return any air back to the tank. If you just try to start the engine and air is the system, you will get air into the high pressure injector lines and starting will be a problem.â May just go the route Edd suggested and do it manually  Any other suggestions? Thanks, Brian
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