Josh, nice videos. The priming bulb would be great to have to facilitate this process. May install one next time I change the fuel filters and am not under time pressure to get the boat launched… Am still on the hard over an hour’s drive away with an early Thursday AM launch time.
Can the seal washers from McMaster be tightened multiple times? Unlike the Yanmar copper washers… Do you have specific seal washers at McMaster that work in the Yanmar fuel system? Have replaced the 8 and 12 mm Yanmar washers when replacing the fuel filter housing. A “professional” mechanic had over tightened the supply banjo bolt stripping the threads. Found this suggestion on line and not sure if it makes sense; not sure if this would force the air past / through the injectors leave the system fully primed. Do not want to cause more problems: “If your fuel system is now filled with air, I would try the following. Engage the decompression levers, close the cooling water thru hull, pull the engine stop, and then spin the engine using the starter. Hopefully that will pull fuel through the system and return any air back to the tank. If you just try to start the engine and air is the system, you will get air into the high pressure injector lines and starting will be a problem.” May just go the route Edd suggested and do it manually… Any other suggestions? Thanks, Brian From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Friday, May 04, 2018 8:26 PM To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F I have found that the 3HM35F (almost the same engine) primes very easily. I make more than problems by opening the official bleed screws. They will perpetually leak. In fact, I JB welded the screw on the engine filter and the HP pump in place. I have replaced the associated banjo fitting copper washers with seal washers. Yanmar makes some which I can provide the part numbers for or you can use seal washers from McMaster-Carr. This was a huge upgrade that completely eliminated fuel and air leaks. I have also installed a priming bulb in the fuel supply line which helps prime the entire system including the racor. When I prime the system I prime the racor and then I only loosen the fuel banjo fitting into the engine filter. Once it is clear I loosen the banjo at the HP pump. 2 points and that's it. With copper washers you need to replace them but with seal washers they are reusable. https://youtu.be/mdHIt14l0R8 https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, May 4, 2018, 6:06 PM Nauset Beach via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: I pulled the fuel hose off the tank pickup nipple as part of cleaning the tank – though did not really need to do so. Now presumably there is some air in the fuel hose. Do I have to bleed that air using the tiny manual fuel pump on the side of the engine? Or can I try to start the engine [it has been winterized for 6 months] and hopefully pull the air “bubble” to the fuel filter / engine? There is ~ 6’ of fuel hose from the tank to a Racor, then another 4’ of fuel hose to reach the fuel pump, so it would take a long time and be quite a bit of fuel that is pumped out of the small Yanmar fuel filter bleed screw. Hoping to minimize the time and inevitable diesel dribbles on the side of the engine. Thanks, Brian _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
