I have found that the 3HM35F (almost the same engine) primes very easily.
I make more than problems by opening the official bleed screws.  They will
perpetually leak.  In fact, I JB welded the screw on the engine filter and
the HP pump in place.  I have replaced the associated banjo fitting copper
washers with seal washers.  Yanmar makes some which I can provide the part
numbers for or you can use seal washers from McMaster-Carr.  This was a
huge upgrade that completely eliminated fuel and air leaks.

I have also installed a priming bulb in the fuel supply line which helps
prime the entire system including the racor.  When I prime the system I
prime the racor and then I only loosen the fuel banjo fitting into the
engine filter.  Once it is clear I loosen the banjo at the HP pump.  2
points and that's it.  With copper washers you need to replace them but
with seal washers they are reusable.

https://youtu.be/mdHIt14l0R8

https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Fri, May 4, 2018, 6:06 PM Nauset Beach via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I pulled the fuel hose off the tank pickup nipple as part of cleaning the
> tank – though did not really need to do so.  Now presumably there is some
> air in the fuel hose.
>
>
>
> Do I have to bleed that air using the tiny manual fuel pump on the side of
> the engine?  Or can I try to start the engine [it has been winterized for 6
> months] and hopefully pull the air “bubble” to the fuel filter / engine?
> There is ~ 6’ of fuel hose from the tank to a Racor, then another 4’ of
> fuel hose to reach the fuel pump, so it would take a long time and be quite
> a bit of fuel that is pumped out of the small Yanmar fuel filter bleed
> screw.  Hoping to minimize the time and inevitable diesel dribbles on the
> side of the engine.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
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