Same.  The deck on my 1972 30 MK I is cored.  The offseason before last I 
removed the chainplates, dug out a good half-inch of core around the cutout, 
and refilled with epoxy with the chainplate in place, making a tight-fitting 
epoxy “donut” around the cutout and chainplate (of course I used a releasing 
agent - carmex - so the epoxy wasn’t stuck to the chainplate).  That was all on 
the advice of Mr. Dennis Cheuvront.  Then I resealed them per Don Casey’s 
instructions.  Pictures at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTcTV6UlEwMmlqZkk.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

> On May 5, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> As a data point for others, the chainplate cut-out on my 1982 37’ goes 
> through cored deck. Josh’s concern is correctly placed.
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> 
>> On May 5, 2018, at 10:44 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> I think the most correct way is to remove the chain plate and then rebed.  
>> I'd be torn between using butyl and 4200.  You can support the mast with a 
>> halyard if desired.
>> 
>> First, you might find is useful to determine if it is the machine 
>> screws/bolts or the flange specifically.  A little tightening of the bolt, a 
>> small addition of 4200, a wrap of butyl, or some Capt Tully's Creeping Crack 
>> cure may be enough if it is just a loose bolt.  You should also figure out 
>> if the deck area is cored.  If not cored the leak will be rather innocuous 
>> for quite some time - go sailing.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
> 
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