ABYC makes no specific prescriptions regarding lighting.  As such there is
no one "right" way.  One train of thought is to bring the top of the mast
to the same potential and the water, effectively drawing lightning to the
boat.  Under this methodology you are really proving protection to the
occupants.  In order to fully protect you need to ground the shrouds and
life line stanchions to so that side stikes don't impact the occupants.
Unfortunately this may actually be making the boat more likely to get hit
and in our cases blow holes in the hull and sink the boat.  All of this is
the same way lightning rods are supposed to work.  The real problem with
this methodology is that 1 million volts is difficult to deal with.  The
gauge of wire, the bend radius, corrosion, resistance of lead/epoxy/bottom
paint, all dictate the path which the lightning chooses to travel and of
course remember that it has already traveled multiple miles through a near
perfect insulator.

The other methodology is to insulate the mast from the water so that it is
no more likely to be struck.  This leaves the occupants unprotected but
ensures that no holes are created.  It may also make a strike less likely.

As for the stock lightning protection on the 37/40, 37+.  It is/was
deplorable.  A 6 gauge wire is bolted to the step (not the mast) and then
attched to the forward most keel bolt.  The attachment is in the form of a
1/4-20 bolt welded at the head to one of the washers under the keel bolt
nut.  The ground wire has a terminal crimped on and fitted to the 1/4-20
with a  nut.  The original wire was not tinned copper and not protected
from water intrusion.  To the best of my knowledge my boat has never been
struck.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, May 4, 2018, 11:29 AM Alan Liles via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> I'm wondering about grounding for lightning protection with an epoxy
> coated keel. Isn't that why the mast is connected, electrically to the
> keel. I've had lightning strike very close, which aroused my interest in
> avoidance of being hit
>
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil
> C&C 37/40+
> Vancouver
>
>
> On May 3, 2018, at 3:02 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Josh is on track.  I just helped fix a "smile" on a 35-2.   Sanded to bare
> lead then quickly applied epoxy with a 3M scrub pad with vigorous rubbing.
> Minimizes the oxidation and promotes a good bond.  Once you get the epoxy
> on the lead then you can apply barrier coat, paint, fairing, whatever.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 4:35 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I believe West Systems suggests scrubbing epoxy into the metal with a
>> wire brush or a scrubby pad.  Anytime an epoxy coating is applied (west
>> systems, interprotect, etc) I've been told that to ensure proper adhesion
>> between layers you need to apply the next layer while the last coating is
>> still soft or tacky.  This includes the first coat of bottom paint.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 3, 2018, 5:11 PM bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old
>>> faring compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I
>>> use for a sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier
>>> coat, and what is the best method for application?  I have also taken the
>>> hull to gelcoat and plan to put on a barrier coat and new bottom
>>> paint...any other ideas...? Many thanks...
>>>
>>>
>>> Richard
>>> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...
>>>
>>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>>> 502-584-7255
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf
>>>
>>> Send us a picture.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from
>>> the tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there.
>>> Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the
>>> top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding
>>> it down. It seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving
>>> everything together or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
>>> Yanmar 2gmf.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
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>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> _______________________________________________
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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