Neil 
Much appreciated. The picture is very helpful. 
As an aside, my boom is round. Did you replace yours at some point? 
Cheers, James 


----- Original Message -----

From: "Neil Gallagher via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Neil Gallagher" <njgallag...@optonline.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2017 5:54:23 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List new haylards 

Jim, 

This shows the main halyard on the starboard side. That's just a messenger line 
in it, but you can see the lead. You can also see that some PO put another lead 
through the splash rail outboard of the groove, it's just a PVC tube through a 
hole. I use that for the whisker pole topping lift. 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1axg6mSDjplwNf8AYS_2LHg9KBEM_ijMR8A/view?usp=sharing
 

Neil Gallagher 
Weatherly, 35-1 
Glen Cove, NY 


On 12/11/2017 10:05 PM, Jim via CnC-List wrote: 



Neil 
If you have any pictures similar to what Dennis sent to show how your main 
halyard exits the mast (assuming it runs up inside) that would be appreciated. 
My main halyard is all wire, not rope / wire so might be different than what 
you had. The jib and spinnaker halyards are rope / wire. 
My 35-1 has the same grooves in the splash rail so intend run them from the 
mast through a turning block back through the grooves into rope clutches as 
there are already winches back there. 
Thanks to everyone who has provided feedback. Much appreciated. 
Cheers, 
James 
ps: next item on list once I get this sorted is a jib roller furler... looks 
like I'm going with Profurl 


----- Original Message -----

From: "Neil Gallagher via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Neil Gallagher" <njgallag...@optonline.net> 
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 2:59:43 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List new haylards 

Jim, 

I replaced the original wire/rope halyards a few years ago, using 3/8 Sta Set 
for both main and jib. Didn't do anything regarding the masthead sheave, and 
it's been ok. I cruise mostly, as for racing my sails are so blown out a slight 
strecthing of halyard won't make much difference... 

A PO had run the main and one jib halyard back to the cockpit; my 35-1 has a 
grooves in the splash rail that's just forward of the hatch, they run P/S 
through those grooves. He mounted a turning block on the deck in line with the 
halyard exit on the mast and the groove, and put a kind of smaller winch on the 
aft end of the deckhouse. It's worked fine so far, though the backing under 
turning blocks wasn't done well, just screws and washers to the underside of 
the liner. That's been on my list. 

Neil Gallagher 
Weatherly, 35-1 
Glen Cove, NY 



On 12/10/2017 2:52 PM, Jim via CnC-List wrote: 

<blockquote>

Dennis 
Thanks for the info and pictures. Your set up looks like what I'm trying to 
achieve. 
When you say a small diameter high tech halyard should work, what diameter 
where you thinking? I purchased 8mm VPC (but have not tried it). 
I'm reluctant to go much smaller as it may be hard to hold / pull on. 
Thanks again for the pictures, I am going to take a closer look at my end to 
see what is possible. 
Cheers, James 
ps: my 35-1 is s/n 75 so very close to yours. 


----- Original Message -----

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: "CnClist" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com> 
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 12:27:40 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List new haylards 

James, 

I have looked at Touche's main halyard masthead sheave and box with an eye to 
replace the existing wire/rope halyard with an all rope halyard. Touche's 
sheave is a wire sheave not a wire/rope sheave. The sheave box is fairly 
narrow. So far I've been reluctant to make the conversion. It would require a 
couple hours work at the masthead to enlarge the opening and install a new box. 
This would be complicated by the existing hole pattern. 

My opinion, and that of some other listers is that a small diameter high tech 
halyard would work in the existing sheave. 

However, I have removed the wire winch and run the main halyard aft. I removed 
the fixed halyard exit sheave at the mast base, covered the hole with a metal 
plate and installed Garhauer swivel turning blocks for all the halyards, 
topping lift, etc. The halyards run aft to Lewmar triple rope clutches. 

As I recall, the wire winch sat on a teak base on the starboard side. I simply 
plugged the holes with teak bungs. 

You're welcome to look at pictures of Touche's deck organizers, mast base 
turning blocks, etc. here: 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsNll4b3ZwM1B4a28 

The holes for the fasteners for the deck organizers and rope clutches are 
covered by nylon plugs. Here's a pic of the plugs covering the nuts for the 
rope clutches. 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ep3_LqsCzqnnNYUtU6OPFDGGeMoeA3jo 

I upgraded the cabin top winches to Barient 22's. That required strengthening 
the deck under the winches. I epoxied additional layers of roving in the 
access. 

You're welcome to contact me for any details. 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA (Currently lying Pensacola, FL) 

On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 11:42 AM, Jim via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 

<blockquote>

I have a '71 C&C 35 Mk1 with the original 100% wire main halyard to wire winch 
beside the mast. 
In February I purchased 8mm (5/16") New England VPC to replace the wire halyard 
but have not yet as I believe I need to replace the mast head sheave (mast 
still up), remove winch, run line back to the cockpit, etc. 
Has anyone made this conversion in the past that could provide advice on the 
mast head sheave, removing old wire winch, routing of new rope halyard, etc.? 
Cheers, 
James 
Flamingo IV, C&C 35-1 


From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Edd Schillay" < e...@schillay.com > 
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 10:50:08 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List new haylards 


Since everyone was expecting me to reply to this one anyway— I’m also very 
happy with Warpspeed. :-) 

If you are going to race your boat, you’re going to want the best no-stretch 
stuff out there. If you’re a cruiser, you’re going to be happy with much less 
expensive line like StaSet or StaSetX. 

Best wishes for a joyous holiday season along with a happy and healthy (and 
breezy) new year. 

Edd 

----------------------------------- 
Edd M. Schillay 
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, New York 
www.StarshipSailing.com 
----------------------------------- 
914.774.9767 | Mobile 
----------------------------------- 
Sent via iPhone 7 
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize 


On Dec 10, 2017, at 11:27 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 

Consider the PS article in the link below. I've been very happy with Yale 
Crystaline and Sampson Warpspeed. 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ySGpOTUdGRW9xdzQ 

Also consider the excerpt (source unknown) below: 
I was taught (by an English race crew) that Mainsail controls are always green, 
jib sails blue and spinnakers red. Halyards are solid colors and sheets, 
outhauls etc. flecked or with tracers. (By following this convention, crews are 
able to move from boat-to-boat without having to be re-educated.) 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 

On Dec 10, 2017 6:08 AM, "T power via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 

<blockquote>



Hi Everyone, 




I'm looking to replace my foresail and headsail halyard on my C&C 30 MKI, my 
foresail is a combination of wire and rope. The boat is used by new sailor for 
cruising. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. 




Cheers 


Tom Power 
Invictus 
C&C 30 MK1 
Fredericton, NB 

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